marc7 travels |
As of this writing, it is the second day of the Asia-Pacific Economic Summit being held here in the Philippines. It has been the fourth day now that I have decided to stay away from where the APEC action is happening to avoid the traffic and other possible “inconvenience” caused by road closures in Metro Manila. I guess it is safe to say that Manila is currently on a stand-still. Now this was the opposite of last Monday’s commuter horrors where a number of Metro Manila residents had to walk a couple of kilometres just to get to where they can take a ride home. But let us face it, these things make us hate Metro Manila but it is all part of our daily metro experience. We cannot also disregard that Metro Manila has small pockets of things that we simply love and that we ought to discover AND appreciate. Hence the birth of the “Explore Manila!” project where our goal is to go around Metro Manila to discover these pockets of fresh air within the confines of Metro Manila. Welcome back to “Explore Manila!” Explore Pateros Pateros is the lone municipality of Metro Manila. It is the smallest among all the administrative arm of the metro in terms of population and land area but interestingly it is also one of the most densely populated area in Metro Manila. There are two theories as to how the name “Pateros” came about but many believe that it had to do with the ‘duck-raising” industry where the municipality is known for. Mention the name “Pateros” to any Metro Manila resident and the first thing that will come into their mind is “balut”, a native delicacy. But more than the ducks and its eggs, Pateros is one place where you get to feel the bucolic atmosphere within Metro Manila. It has that charm of a small Philippine town and it was actually a surprise to actually find one that is just about 30 minutes away from EDSA. Join me and let us walk and explore Pateros! San Roque Church At the heart of the municipality is a spiritual haven and refuge for its locals that through countless times, it has seen the glory and pains of history unfold. The San Roque Church that lies along the busy streets of Pateros was established in 1572. The first stone church was finished in 1815, designed by Father Santos Gomez Maranon. Six years later the belfry was added to the church. Apart from being the center of faith in the area, the church convent also served as a temporary quarters of the country’s first president, Emilio Aguinaldo, in 1897. The church was later damaged in 1899 because of the revolution against American forces. It was also a sight of the gruesome murders of civilians in 1944 by the Japanese forces. At present, it stands to guard Pateros serving as a symbolic image of how strong the faith of the locals are. Its age is made known by the arc at the entrance of the church’s ground and the historical marker by the church’s front door. The church’s exteriors are simple and yet remains a dominant structure in the town’s skyline. The interiors of the church is highlighted by a gold-colored altar with the image of the crucified Christ as its centrepiece. The retablo in front of the church have intricate carvings. Apart from that the interiors are simple and void of any fancy. Pateros Park-Plaza de Borja Just right across the San Roque Church is the Pateros Park – Plaza de Borja. It is the center of the poblacion where a stage was installed. I guess these is a where people gather for local celebrations and town meetings. The plaza is also surrounded by fastfood merchants and merchandise stalls. Unfortunately, the plaza was undergoing renovations during our visit and we were not able to appreciate its beauty at that time. Pasalubong Alert: Alfombra If Marikina, from my previous blog, is the shoe capital of the country then Pateros has its own brand of footwear that it is known for – the Alfombra. This unique slippers from Pateros is one of the two products that the place is known for. In fact, if you walked the main street of patreos, you would find that there sidewalks were designed with duck images and alfombra. Alfombra is the Spanish word for “carpet’ which is the main material used for these kind of slippers. Hence, it is one comfortable footwear at home. It comes in a variety of colors and a unique feature of the Alfombra is that there is no right or left slipper so you do not have to worry about wearing it right. Any way is the right way. The main streets of Pateros are lined with Alfombra makers and it is quite easy to find one when you are in the area. There are some variations from their designs and prices may vary based on the design. It is a great take home product from Pateros. Prices for the alfombra start at Php150. Pateros Municipal Hall A block away from the city’s commercial center is the Pateros Municipal Hall. On our visit, the municipal hall grounds were buzzing with excitement from both the young and old. I guess a typical weekend within the compound is the gathering of locals in the area – the old ones enjoying the day under the trees while the younger ones practicing their dances, either for school or for a barangay activity. The modern structure of the municipal hall dominates the Pateros skyline, together with the San Roque Church. It stands as a guardian to its constituents. Fronting the building is a small open park where a small monument in honour of the country’s national hero, Jose Rizal. While in a small corner of the park is a small monument dedicated to the war heroes of Pateros. Balutan Pateros is almost synonymous to the word “balut” – a native delicacy that claims that only the brave and the adventurous would dare to try. Pateros is one of the areas where the duck industry continuously flourish and from it comes products that it has been known for like fried duck, salted eggs, and the balut. It is the backyard industry for a number of Pateros residents. I guess Balut is Pateros’ main produce. Balut is cooked incubated duck egg. People might think it is an easy eat but once you see the undeveloped embryo, you might have second thoughts about consuming it. That is the reason why it is said to be eaten by the brave and adventurous. Most Filipinos would not have any qualms eating the delicacy and yet there are still those who would have to take a nudge before even trying it out, including me.
If it interests you, you can check out Herrera Street where you will see most of these stores selling these produce. Post Explore Notes: Pateros maybe the smallest in area but, true to its image, it does have a huge heart. It stands more than just the balut or the salted egg. The locals are very warm and are more than willing to help out visitors. It is easy to go around Pateros as everything is close to each other. If you are looking for a taste of a rural atmosphere, without wanting to leave the city, then you can head of to Pateros and you will easily captivated by its unique charm.
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I found myself sitting inside a bus bound for Cabanatuan City and trying to research as much info that I could about the place. I was on a personal errand that had me heading off to this city in Nueva Ecija and I quickly saw the opportunity to check out interesting spots in this city. I guess that is me trying to find the opportunity to get to know the place. Traveling is an everyday thing. Cabanatuan City prides itself as the “Tricycle Capital of the Philippines” with more than 30, 000 tricycles plying its thoroughfares. It is the largest city in Nueva Ecija and the center for economic activity. Its strategic location as a gateway to Cagayan Valley has spurred economic activity in the area. Apart from its business strength, Cabanatuan City was immortalized in films – the American film “The Great Raid” and the Filipino blockbuster film “Juan Luna”. Both films banked on two historical events that took place in the area during the Filipino-American War and during the liberation of the country in World War 2. Hence, Cabanatuan City has its own share in Philippine and World History. Having two hours to spare, I decided to walk around the city center and discover Cabanatuan. Freedom Park I started my impromptu city walk with Cabanatuan’s Freedom Park – the largest park in the city. The sprawling park sits at the center of the city complete with the usual stage and a large gathering area at one end. The gathering area can easily be converted into a basketball court and a volleyball court as the open space can easily accommodate both. At the time of our visit, small shops selling different merchandise surrounded the plaza that indicates that locals visit the area on a regular basis. At the other end of the park stands a gazebo in the midst of a large space with park benches and greens. I guess the area is best appreciated during the afternoons where you get to see the more laidback locals spending time in the area. In full view of the park is a water tower and it is just a few meters from the park. The water storage was used during earlier times and I think it is still in use until today. A monument in honor of Juan Luna was also installed within the grounds of Freedom Park. This is honor to a Philippine hero who was assassinated in the city. Old Provincial Capitol Just right across Freedom Park is the Old Provincial Capitol of Nueva Ecija. Cabanatuan City served as the province’s capital until 1965 when the capital was moved to Palayan City. The building is still in use until today and the city has managed to preserve the structure. The building’s simple architecture was similar to Filipino-American structures mixed with a modern look. It was nice to see that the city has managed to incorporate its rich historical value with the architecture of the Old Provincial Capitol. Nueva Ecija High School Adjacent to the Old Provincial Capitol is another building that is hard to miss because of its architectural design – The Nueva Ecija High School. It is one of the oldest secondary schools in the Philippines and its architecture is reflective to that of the pre-World War 2 designs. Great thing is that it is well-preserved. A historical marker was installed in front of the school that states the school was established in 1905 in the town of San Isidro and that it was later moved in 1927 when Cabanatuan was established as the new capital. The school prides itself for having produced great leaders and movers of the province. Cabanatuan Cathedral In the midst of the hustle and bustle of the city is the Cabanatuan Church, neatly “squeezed” within the city center. It is the seat of the Diocese of Cabanatuan. Unlike other churches, the Cabanatuan Cathedral deviates from the usual church design with courtyards and lawns. The simple façade of the church can actually be mistaken as a regular city building because it blends perfectly with its environment. The beauty of the church is found within its walls. The beautiful interior is highlighted by a simple altar with a crucifix as its focal point with two Saints standing alongside it. The simplicity of the church is a reflection both inside and outside. The only difference is that its interior is simple and elegant. It was also on the same grounds where the great Filipino hero Juan Luna met his demise. It took me quite a while to actually find the marker by the adjacent convent walls because it is camouflaged by the walls and it is along a major street of the city. General Antonio Luna Monument On the afternoon of June 5, 1899, a great Filipino leader, Heneral Juan Luna, together with his trusted aide, Colonel Francisco Roman, died in the arms of Filipino guards, who should have been fighting with him side-by-side against foreign oppressors. Sadly, the assassination is said to be a reflection of the country’s present situation. Fronting the church is a huge open where a monument stands in honor of Heneral Luna. It is said that the spot where the monument stands is where he died. His death has raised a lot of questions but one thing is for sure that his death has put the city in our history books. Too bad though the open space has not received ample attention. It has deteriorated and functions as a parking area. I hope that the local government can beautify the space in honor of the fallen hero. One good thing though was that small stalls are located in the area that serves rice cakes. Cabanatuan Public Market Before finally heading home, we headed off to the public market which is just a few blocks away from the church. Just like other old communities in the country, the center for politics, religion, and commerce are all located within walking distance with each other. We had no difficulty getting to the market. The market was organized and neat but our reason for heading to the market was to bring home one of the food products that Cabanatuan is known for – Batutay. Batutay is Cabanatuan’s version of longganiza or a local sausage. It is a beef-based sausage known for its unique blend of sweet and garlic taste. The caramel coating also adds up to its unique flavour. So never leave the city without it.
Post Travel Notes Cabanatuan is a city that is historically rich. Unlike other destinations, it does not offer the usual beach or party atmosphere but it has its own distinct small town charm. It is a great destination for those who want the “home” feel where you can take an afternoon stroll by the plaza while munching on popcorn or banana cue. It is for those travellers who want a different take on travel where you can experience a bucolic day in the Philippines. It is a destination where you can enjoy what a typical day in the province. Getting there: Going to Cabanatuan City is easy as the city sits along the main highway heading to the Aurora or Cagayan Valley. You can take a bus that passes through Cabanatuan City and the bus lines that ply these routes are Baliwag Bus or Five Star in Cubao and Pasay City. Metro Manila is the home of many Filipinos. The urban landscape of Manila has attracted a lot of Filipinos with the promise of a better life. Most of them end up disappointed with the harsh realities of urban living but still they remain steadfast to their hope that city will give them a better life. It is hard to fall in love with Manila. The love that you feel for Manila is a love that grows in you. You learn to love the beauty together with the inadequacies of city living. Through time, Manila becomes attach to your life that one could not easily shrug off its beauty. This is my goal – to show a different side of Manila. Welcome to my “Explore Manila!” series. Explore Marikina! Marikina City is known as the “Shoe Capital of the Philippines”. The city is known for its shoe industry where 70% of the shoes in the Philippines are produced by Marikina. This city, once a rural community, is now one of the progressive cities in Metro Manila and one of the wealthiest local government in the country. The city was also able to develop its tourism front, together with its growth as an economic center. Join me as I explore Marikina City! Jesus dela Pena Church In the midst of a simple community along the banks of the Marikina River is a chapel where the city’s first Catholic mass was held. The community, where the church is located, was one of the early communities along the Marikina River where its residents were dependent on the river for their living. It was the Jesuits who introduced the Christian faith in the community holding the first mass in a 1630 inside an old storage house. The storage house would later on be converted in the chapel making it the oldest church in the city. The simple design of the church is in contrast with the usual Spanish-period churches that I see during my travels. It doesn’t have that grand façade and sprawling lawns that we usually see in pictures. Here was a church that represents its old community that exemplifies the simplicity of their faith. Marikina River A tributary of the Pasig River, the Marikina River traverses the city of Marikina with its waters coming from the Sierra Madre. The river was once a transport route during the Spanish period and, with the development of the road system, the river transport system was slowly weaned out. The Marikina River ecosystem deteriorated with the development of the city as an industrial center. The local government of Marikina has taken a lot of initiatives to clean up the river and to develop its riverbanks as an attraction. They have managed to improve the condition of the riverbanks that it is now a major attraction of the city with water activities that people get to enjoy while creating livelihood for its local residents. Kapitan Moy (Sentro ng Pangkultura ng Marikina) “Kapitan Moy” is the person responsible for the development of Marikina’s shoe industry. The 200-year old “bahay na bato” was the site of the first shoe factory in the city and its historical significance is recognized by the National Historical Commission. The house was later turned into a primary school and as a military headquarters by the Japanese during World War 2. At present, the heritage house is now a center for cultural activities of Marikina with two restaurants occupying the first floor. The second floor now serves as a venue for temporary art exhibits by local artists. Our Lady of the Abandoned Church Restored in 1957, the Our Lady of the Abandoned Church in Marikina City is the home of one of the religious images of the Virgin Mary in Metro Manila that is said to be miraculous. The church was established after the Agustinians took over the spiritual leadership of the city. The congregation was later moved to its current location because of persistent flooding in Jesus de la Pena Church. The church was badly damaged during the Filipino-American War and its belfry was destroyed during World War 2 and its restoration marked the unwavering faith of the locals. What caught my attention during the explore activity was the life-size statues of saints that don the side roofs of the church. It looked like a legion of saints guarding the church and its congregation. The church’s interior was glowing in gold with the Virgin Mary’s image as its centrepiece. Its painted ceilings is also a must see. The church is one of those churches where its interiors stand out. Shoe Museum Just right across the Our Lady of Abandoned Church is a museum that serves as a repository of shoes of different public figures in politics, entertainment, and business. The Marikina Shoe Museum is the city’s exhibit area that showcases its thriving shoe manufacturing business. The first floor opens with a brief and a life-size diorama of the industry. It also has a collection of different footwear from around the globe. Interestingly, the museum is also the home of Imelda Marcos’ shoes collection during her term as First Lady of the country. Some of these shoes were made in Marikina. These collections are prominently displayed on the second floor, complete with a large picture of the former First Lady. Marikina Sports Complex The Marikina Sports Complex is a world-class sport facility at the heart of Marikina. Its facilities include an Olympic-size pool, track and field, basketball courts, volleyball courts, a library, and a museum. The venue has hosted a number of local and international local sporting events. Here is a fast fact, did you know that the land where the complex stands was once a train station? Largest Shoes in the World True to the city’s call to make quality shoes, Marikina City also holds the Guinnes World Records for having manufactured the largest pair of shoes in the world. Measuring 5.29 meters long and 2.37 meters wide, the shoes is on display at the Marikina Riverbanks Mall. The shoes were created in 2002 and was the highlight of the first Sapatero Festival of the city. Post Explore Notes: Marikina City is one city that has shown resilience and development over the past years. Despite the onslaught of Ondoy, the city has managed to rise up from the debris of the calamity with the right level of governance. I have always admired the city government, even way back in college, with how it has managed its resources to make the city liveable and properly developed. Furthermore, it has managed to try to rehabilitate the Marikina River and use it as an attraction without disregarding that the river can turn its wrath to residents along its banks. Marikina City is definitely a model city that every local government can emulate. Furthermore, it has managed to try to rehabilitate the Marikina River and use it as an attraction without disregarding that the river can turn its wrath to residents along its banks.
Marikina City is definitely a model city that every local government can emulate. |
Marc del Rosario
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February 2025
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