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The smell of the cold wind filled my lungs as my "owong" cut through the still waters of the lake. The early morning sun that softly touched my skin was enough to give me a snugly warm feeling in the cold weather of this lake community. The gentle sound of water slushing as the we paddled through its waters had a calming effect on me. A sea of pink lotuses was in full view. This is the kind of experience that you will remember when you visit Lake Sebu in South Cotabato.  These pink lotuses warm you up at Lake Sebu. Lake Sebu is a 42, 450-hectare landscape in South Cotabato made popular for a lake of the same name and its T'nalak Dream Weavers. Its landscape composed of water resources, mountains, rolling hills, and rainforests which is home to fauna endemic to the country like the Philippine deer. At the heart of these natural resources is the placid Lake Sebu - a 354-hectare fresh water lake which is a center of the aquaculture in the region. It is now being developed as an amazing ecotourism destination in Mindanao. There are a lot of places to explore in Lake Sebu. It is a place blessed with a rich cultural heritage and natural attractions that will keep tourists at the edge of their habal-habal seat. It was also great to see that tourism efforts are well-coordinated by the local government that tour rates are standard. A half-day tour will cost you Php500 per person, covering 4 spots, while a whole day tour that covers 6 destinations is at Php750 per person. With the help of our tour guide, Kuya Ronald (contact details: 09972482160), we explored interesting spots in Lake S'bu that showcased its natural beauty and rich culture. Lake Sebu Owong Morning Cruise Lake S'bu is one of the tourism icons of the province. The placid lake is a beauty that can be admired the whole day with its panoramic view of the daily grind of its locals and the rugged mountains as its backdrop. The lake, situated within the Allah Valley, sits at an elevation of 1000 meters and is said to be the source of one of the tastiest tilapia in the country. It is a normal scene to catch a fisherman cruising through its still waters aboard a wooden canoe called "owong".  Early morning owong tours on Lake Sebu will perk you up better than coffee. But the real beauty of Lake S'bu manifests as the first ray of sunrise lights up its still waters. The warmth of the early morning sun lets hundreds of pink lotuses bloom in the lake. We took an early morning cruise aboard an "owong", a makeshift wooden or fiberglass canoe that can fit 2-3 people, to an area where the lotuses flourish. You will get to enjoy the view of these pink blossoms as the owong cuts through the vegetation.
The charm of the lotus bloom can only be enjoyed in the morning until close to lunch time when these flowers fold up. It was also good that we came in to visit Lake S'bu on a weekday so the usual tourist crowd was absent and we had unadulterated view of the blooming lotuses. Hikong Alu (Falls 1) and Zipline Lake Sebu has 7 waterfalls within its domain and only two these waterfalls are easily accessible to tourists. A trip to Lake Sebu is not complete without visiting Hikong Alu and Hikong Bente.
Hikong Alu, commonly known as Falls 1, is the most developed in terms of tourism facilities. This is the jump-off point of the zipline that will give you a top view of Falls 2, 3, 4, and 5. Unfortunately, I did not get the chance to try out the zipline as it was still closed at the time of our early morning visit.  Feeling the vibe of the T’boli while enjoying the view of Hikong Alu. In T'boli dialect, "hikong" means falls and "alu" means passage. Spring water cascades from a height of a 35 feet on a rock wall surface. Some locals fish for freshwater shells along the banks of the river that flows downstream towards Falls 2. Getting close to its cascade is possible because of the paved walkway leading close to its catch basin.  A local fishing for freshwater snails at Falls 1. A few meters from the waterfalls is a cemented bridge where you get a full view of Hikong Alu. This is where you also get a chance to wear T'boli costume, for a minimal fee, for that culturally sensitive photo with Hikong Alu on the background. Hikong Bente (Falls 2) Hikong Bente is the biggest and the most beautiful waterfall among the seven with water cascading from a height of 70 feet. The rock wall surrounding the cascade and its downstream water flow makes its landscape more dramatic.  The mystical beauty of Hikong Bente. Unlike Hikong Alu, the riverbanks of Hikong Bente is rocky and getting a close look at the base of its cascade is challenging. It does not help that the catch basin of the falls is hidden behind a rock wall. It was a beauty to catch the sun's rays break through the foliage atop the falls while a thin mist of water rises into the air. Lake Sebu's Falls 2 did not disappoint. The thunderous sound of water cascading was enough to excite guests as you take a 10-minute walk from the jump-off point to its viewing area. It is so majestic that one wouldn't mind taking the time just to enjoy and capture its beauty. Divine Mercy Tucked in one of the hills of Lake Sebu is a tranquil sanctuary of the faithful - the Divine Mercy. The sanctuary is a great place to sit still and commune with God.  The Divine Mercy image overlooks Lake Sebu. The sprawling garden is lined with the images of hundreds of saints. Each saint was given his or her own space where devotees can offer a short prayer. At the center of all these saints is the huge image of the Divine Mercy that sits at the highest point of the prayer hill overlooking the rolling hills of Lake Sebu. One can actually have a panoramic view of the rugged terrain that surrounds the prayer sanctuary from that vantage point. The imposing image of the Jesus Christ seems to be looking over the stretch of Lake Sebu. There are pocket areas where one can sit down, meditate, and pray so loud noises are frowned upon in the area. They also have a strict dress code for ladies. Guests are expected to observe the solemnity of the place. Lang Dulay Weaving House Lake Sebu is an ancestral domain of the T'boli, an indigenous tribe in the Philippines. Their culture and heritage are very much alive as you go around Lake Sebu as their bead bracelets and necklaces, brass ornaments, and tubao are offered as "pasalubongs" or memorabilias of the trip. But the ornament that really reflects their culture is their T'nalak - a traditional abaca textile woven by their dream weavers.  A T’boli weaving what their dreams and beliefs are made of. Lang Dulay is the face behind the preservation of the traditional weaving of the T'nalak. She was a T'boli princess who learned the art from her mother at the age of 12 and later on passed on the knowledge to her grandchildren. She was conferred the National Living Treasures Award in 1998 for her efforts. Up until her death in 2015, she had over a hundred patterns that was based on her dreams.
We met Sabulan Dulay and the other dreamweavers at the Lang Dulay Weaving House. Sabulan Dulay is the daughter-in-law of Lang Dulay, and now leads the other dreamweavers in the preservation of their traditional art of weaving. They were very accomodating and gave an insights about the T'nalak.  Sabulan Dulay follows the footsteps of her mother-in-law in keeping their tradition alive. The T'nalak is a traditional clothing that holds a prominent place in their culture. It is a peized possession that outlines the T'boli culture - their dreams, belief, and religion. The inspiration for the design is based on the female weaver's dreams hence the term "dream weavers". The ability to interpret dreams into the design determines their level of weaving skills.
The creation of the T'nalak textile is a long process of 32 steps from cooking the abaca, crafting of the design, dyeing the abaca threads, and the actual weaving of the fabric. The whole process can take 3-6 months depending on the availability of materials. We had the opportunity to capture Sabulan Dulay was in the middle of starting a new design during our visit. Despite the language barrier, I could feel her eagerness to share their culture as she worked her design on the abaca threads.  Let us support local products like the T’nalak. You can order the textile from Charlie Dulay at (0935) 656 5280. The weaving house also offers great pasalubong items designed with T'nalak fabric. Having seen and heard the story behind this fabric, I am glad to be a proud owner of an iPad travel organizer made from T'nalak. If you want to order the T'nalak fabric, you can contact them directly through Charlie Dulay at (0935) 656 5280. T'Boli Museum The T'Boli Museum is one spot in Lake Sebu where you get a good glimpse of their culture and traditions. The museum, just a 5-minute from the town center, is a repository of the artifacts that detail the history and way of life of the indigenous Philippine tribe.
The museum was designed similar to a typical T'boli house - a bungalow wooden house that is elevated from the ground. The house doesn't have any partitions and the space is multi-functional depending on the need. At the far end of the house is an elevated platform which serves as the patriarch's sleeping area. The museum houses the largest collection of brass gongs in the region. These gongs are symbols of wealth and prestige among the T'bolis. The museum also has a collection of porcelain wares from the 8th and 15th century indicating strong trading relationships during those times. On display are brass, beaded, and woven ornaments that reflects the the history, culture, and life of the T'bolis of South Cotabato. POST TRAVEL NOTES As the caretaker/curator of the T'boli Museum drummed on a brass gong that created a haunting bass sound, I took in everything that I can in to grasp a deeper understanding of the T'bolis. I have to admit that I got enchanted with the T'bolis and Lake Sebu. I got so mesmerized by the place that I wanted to stay longer and discover more.  It’s summer so it is time to hit the beach! Lake Sebu was the highlight of my Central Mindanao trip. The natural beauty of the place, the culture, and its vibe captured my heart. It simply oozes with natural beauty and personality. Its charm seeps into your soul that you leave the place with a heavy heart and you make the promise to visit again soon. There is no doubt that Lake Sebu is now one of my favorite destination in the Philippines. Getting There: Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific Air have regular daily flights to General Santos City and Cotabato City. You can take a bus or a van to Surallah. Once in Surallah, you can take a van to Lake Sebu. You can hire a habal-habal from the van terminal. For habal-habal and Lake Sebu tour arrangements, you can contact Kuya Ronald Maguan at (0997) 2482160. Sample Travel Itinerary Day 1: Arrival in Cotabato City / Cotabato City Tour (Click here for trip details of the trip.) > The Grand Mosque (Habal-Habal Contact: Mohammad Edsa - 0935 9063067) > People’s Palace > Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral > PC Hill and Tantawan Park > Old Cotabato City Hall > Cotabato City Plaza Day 2: Asik-Asik Falls, Alamada, Cotabato (Click here for trip details of the trip. Contact person for habal-habal arrangements from Midsayap: Jun Camap – 0919 4558958) Day 3: Maguindanao and Sultan Kudarat Road Trip in the morning enroute to Lake Sebu. > White Mosque (Datu Odin Sinsuat) > Margues Blue Lagoon (Datu Odin Sinsuat) > Pink Mosque (Datu Saudi Amapatuan) > Sultan Kudarat Provincial Capitol (Isulan) Lake Sebu Walking Tour (PM) > Lake S’bu > T’Boli Museum > Lake Sebu Town Center Day 4: Lake Sebu Tour (Contact person for Lake Sebu Tour: Ronald Maguan – 0997 2482160). Travel to Glan in the afternoon. Day 5: Glan Tour > Lago Beach > Sta. Catalina de Alexandria Church > Glan Municipal Hall > Taban Beach > Gumasa Beach Travel to General Santos City in the afternoon Day 6: General Santos City Tour > General Santos Fish Port > Queen Tuna Park > Pioneer Street > Plaza Heneral Santos > Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage > Tiongson Arcade Day 7: Early morning departure to Manila
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Mention Maguindanao or Sultan Kudarat and one would surely get the question whether it is safe to go and visit these places. It is a resounding "yes" everytime I encounter the question having spent a total of two nights and a full day on the roads of these two beautiful provinces and getting immersed with the rich culture and history of our Muslim brothers and sisters.  Tough and rugged, Maguindanao is now ready to show the world its natural and manmade beauty. Prior to 1966, Cotabato was counted as one province with its rich and colorful history and culture dating back to pre-Spanish times. It was under the leadership of Sultan Kudarat in the 1600's that this region came together to successfully supress the Spaniards from their efforts to christianize the area. By the turn of the American regime, the Moro Province was recognized and established. It was in 1966 that South Cotabato was recognized as a separate province and was subsequently followed by the creation of Cotabato, Maguindanao, and Sultan Kudarat as independent provinces in 1973. Our trip will bring us around the Cotabato City, the province's gateway, and on the roads of Maguindanao and Sultan Kudarat to discover our Muslim heritage and culture as Filipinos. The Charm of Cotabato City Cotabato City is an independent city in Maguindanao. Founded in the 1500s, Kota Wati served as the capital of the Maguindanao Sultanate until its collapse in 1888. The sultanate ruled over a vast area of Mindanao during those times.
Called by a number of nicknames, the city aims to be the "Halal Capital of the Philippines". It is the gateway to Maguindanao with the Cotabato Airport and its bus transport network connecting it to other cities in Mindanao. It now serves as the capital of the Bangsamoro Regional Government with the recent ratification of the Bangsamoro Organic Law. The Grand Mosque of Cotabato City The Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah Masjid, more popularly known as the Grand Mosque, is Cotabato City's premiere tourist icon. Situated along the banks of Tamontaka River, the mosque is the largest in the Philippines and costs a whopping US$48 million. Its construction was completely funded by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei with its architecture by Felino Palafox.  The Cotabato Grand Mosque was my first taste of Muslim architecture. The Grand Mosque stands by its name. Coming in from Manila by air, our first glimpse of this architectural beauty was on our final descent to Cotabato Airport. But nothing beats having to see it face-to-face against the afternoon sun. Its grand design with its 141 feet minaret stands out of the skyline of Kalanganan's flatlands.
I have been fascinated with the history and architecture of old churches. I love the story intertwined with the aesthetic beauty of its structure. And coming face to face with the Grand Mosque of Cotabato City, it was my first time to appreciate the beauty of a place of worship of Islam. Unlike the places of worship of Christians, the mosque is void of too much fancy. Its main prayer room is bare as the faithful sits on the floor during their prayers. I was amazed at the sheer beauty of the mosque. There are a lot of photogenic spots that would tease your creativity but be responsible and conscious of the creative shots. Remember that the place is a sacred place among our Muslim brethren.  I enjoyed exploring every corner of the Grand Mosque. The Grand Mosque is open to the public but certain protocols need to be observed like clothing. Shorts, sandos, and sleeveless shirts are not allowed but do not fret as their is a store that rent out traditional Muslim attires when you need to dress appropriately. One should also be conscious that there are specific areas where photography is not allowed. Getting there: From the city, take a public jeep to Awang and ask the driver to drop you off at the intersection of Sinsuat Avenue and the Tamontaka Bubong Road where you can get a habal-habal ride to the Grand Mosque. For habal-habal arrangements to the Grand Mosque, you can contact Kuya Mohammad Edsa at +63935 9063067. People's Palace The grand Muslim architectural design of the new city hall of Cotabato against the setting orange sun was a perfect backdrop to describe a lazy afternoon in Cotabato City. Aptly called as the People's Palace, it is the center of the governance of the city. Its Muslim inspired architectural design make it unique and reflective of the region it represents.  A playful afternoon at the Cotabato City People's Palace. Its sprawling grounds turn into a playground of sorts in the afternoon as the young adults play a round of soccer while the smaller kids enjoy playing tag. It was fun as we interacted with the kids who had no inhibitions having their pictures taken. The kids were very warm and friendly that we had a grand time interacting with them. Getting there: From the Grand Mosque drop-off point along Sinsuat Avenue, take a jeep back to the city marked "Town" and ask the driver to drop you off at the new City Hall. Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral At the heart of the city is the Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral - the center of the Catholic faith in the city. First built in 1948, the church sits, quietly, with its modern architecture, along Cotabato City's main street. Its simple facade scores differently against the grand designs of mosques found in the city, evoking a simple and yet elegant design.  The Our Lady of Immaculate Concepcion is the city's center of the Catholic faith.
Its interiors create a homey atmosphere with its high ceilings highlighted by gold and white retablo. Its altar is higlighted by an image of the Crucified Christ. Getting there: From the People's Palace, take a jeep with the signboard "Town" and ask the driver to drop you off at the church. Tantawan Park and PC Hill The Tantawan Park and PC Hill forms part of the city's historical core. This small hill in the city provides a panoramic view of Cotabato and once served as the center of governance in the province - the building of the old provincial capitol still stands to this day. This is where you will also find the historic Kutabato Caves which, unfortunately, was closed during the time of our visit.  The statue of the great Sultan Kudarat is the centerpiece of Tantawan Park.
At the foot of the hill is the Tantawan Park which bears the image of the great Muslim leader and local hero, Sultan Kudarat. The highly honored sultan once ruled a vast empire in Mindanao and was responsible in deflecting Spanish conquistadors in Mindanao. Getting there: The park and the hill is just walking distance from the Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral. Cotabato City Plaza Like other Philippine city or municipality, the Cotabato City Plaza is at the center of the activities and the city, in terms of its location. This is the location of the old city hall which is also stands out for its unique architecture that highlights Muslim culture. The city's own version of the Rizal Park stands at the front of the old city hall.  At the heart of the city is the old city hall of Cotabato City, Across the street is another open space where city celebrations and assemblies are done. A huge stage highlights this part of the plaza. The plaza is also a great spot to warm up in the late afternoons with locals. Getting there: The Cotabato City Plaza is just a few minutes walk from the Tamtawan Park. Datu Odin Sinsuat A 30-minute jeepney ride away from Cotabato City is the sleepy municipality of Datu Odin Sinsuat. Visitors of Maguindanao arriving via planes get to be greeted first by this municipality as the airport is within its jurisdiction. Traveling through its roads will make you wonder as to what other off-beat natural and man-made beauty this municipality is willing to share with the world.  The Cotabato Airport is located at the Datu Odin Sinsuat. White Mosque Hiding behind the shadows of the Grand Mosque, the Masjid Al-Nasser Abpi, more commonly called White Mosque, is another mosque worth admiring as you traverse the roads of Maguindanao. The mosque highlighted by its domes and two minarets, donned in white and gold, is an unassuming attraction in the neighborhood. We can only admire it from a distance because the caretaker was out during the time of our visit.  The unassuming White Mosque of Datu Odin Sinsuat is just 30 minutes away from the city. Finding the mosque can be quite tricky because most locals are not aware that the mosque is a point of interest in the municipality. It is located inside a village along the highway. And while your there, check out Pon de Monggo while waiting for the van to the next destination. Getting there: From Cotabato City, take a jeep to Awang that goes to Magelco. Ask the driver to drop you off at El Grande where you can ride a payong-payong to the White Mosque. Pan de Monggo is located along the highway. Margues Blue Lagoon 20 minutes from the White Mosque is another hidden gem of Datu Odin Sinsuat - this time it is a natural wonder. Tucked along the sleepy town of Margues is a lagoon that forms part of the local's daily life but it is an amazing off-beat destination for travelers.  The off-beat destination in Datu Odin Sinsuat is the Margues Blue Lagoon. The blue hues of the lagoon, its surrounding flora, and the serene atmosphere create an enchanting vibe of the place. Locals say that the water springs from the bottom of the lagoon and its depth create the blue hues. It also serves as a water resource for locals where they take a bath or wash their cloths. The Margues Blue Lagoon is a perfect place to relax and commune with nature because it is still void of the usual influx of travelers. Getting There: The Margues Blue Lagoon is about 15-minutes away from the White Mosque by van. Ask the driver to drop you off at the Margues Elementary School. Pink Mosque, Datu Saudi Ampatuan A color that symbolizes peace and love turned this lovely mosque into an attraction. The striking pink color of the Masjid Dimaukom, also known as the Pink Mosque, stood out to be noticed, not only by the locals, but by travelers traversing the area.  The famous Pink Mosque of Datu Saudi Ampatuan. The construction of the Pink Mosque was commissioned by Samsodin Dimaukom, a prominent politician in the province. It was beautiful to look at the mosque as it glistens under the noon sun. Interestingly, the color became so prominent that the whole town seem to be painted in pink. I guess the local government took the color a notch higher by literrally painting the whole town pink. Getting There: Take a van or a bus along the highway in Margues. Ask the driver/conductor to drop you off at the Pink Mosque. Travel time is about an 45 minutes to an hour. The place is hard to miss because the town is pretty in pink. Sultan Kudarat Provincial Capitol, Isulan, Sultan Kudarat Hands down to the province of Sultan Kudarat for having the grandest provincial capitol that I have seen in the Philippines. The new capitol building sits on a sprawling field that faces the vast oil palm plantation. It was like a palace in the midst of a hacienda.  The Sultan Kudarat Provincial Capitol in Isulan is one of the most beautiful capitol in the country
What makes the provincial capitol stand out is its unique architecture that reflects the Muslim culture. Its yellow-gold dome is evident againsts its white facade that it takes on a similar look of a mosque. It really has the vibe of a sultan's palace - a true representation of one of the great sultans that ruled Mindanao. A monument honoring Sultan Kudarat sits at the center of the sprawling lawn of the Getting There: From the Pink Mosque, head back to the main highway of Datu Saudi Ampatuan where you can take a van or a bus headed to Isulan. The trip takes about an hour by van. You can ask the driver to drop you off at the Isulan Rotonda where you can take a tricycle to the Sultan Kudarat Provincial Capitol. POST TRAVEL NOTES Maguidanao may seem tough on the outside but, in reality, the vibe is very laidback, peaceful, and tame. There are a hundred and one checkpoints as you traverse the province but you get used to it. I guess most locals do because the province has long been in the middle of skirmishes between the military and rogue groups. But let us be clear that these skirmishes, most often than not, are easily controlled, isolated, and far from the usual tourist trails and local communities.  Get ready to be charmed by Lake S'bu's lotus. We are heading there next. What stood out for me was the warmth of the locals. From small kids, bus ticketing officers, bakery owners, and your habal-habal driver, they were very helpful and made us comfortable through their smiles and conversations. I did not feel any fear at any given time of the trip. I seriously wish that off-beat travelers continue to open the province to the world. There are still a lot to discover on this side of the Philippines and, with these discoveries, open more opportunities for the locals and its communities. Getting There: Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific have regular flights to Cotabato City, the gateway to Maguindanao. Sample Travel Itinerary Day 1: Arrival in Cotabato City / Cotabato City Tour - The Grand Mosque (Habal-Habal Contact: Mohammad Edsa - 0935 9063067) - People’s Palace - Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral - PC Hill and Tantawan Park - Old Cotabato City Hall - Cotabato City Plaza Day 2: Asik-Asik Falls, Alamada, Cotabato (Click here for trip details of the trip. Contact person for habal-habal arrangements from Midsayap: Jun Camap – 0919 4558958) Day 3: Maguindanao and Sultan Kudarat Road Trip in the morning enroute to Lake Sebu. - White Mosque (Datu Odin Sinsuat) - Margues Blue Lagoon (Datu Odin Sinsuat) - Pink Mosque (Datu Saudi Amapatuan) - Sultan Kudarat Provincial Capitol (Isulan) Lake Sebu Walking Tour (PM) - Lake S’bu - T’Boli Museum - Lake Sebu Town Center Day 4: Lake Sebu Tour (Contact person for Lake Sebu Tour: Ronald Maguan – 0997 2482160). Travel to Glan in the afternoon. Day 5: Glan Tour - Lago Beach - Sta. Catalina de Alexandria Church - Glan Municipal Hall - Taban Beach Travel to General Santos City in the afternoon Day 6: General Santos City Tour - General Santos Fish Port - Queen Tuna Park - Pioneer Street - Plaza Heneral Santos - Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage - Tiongson Arcade Day 7: Early morning departure to Manila
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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August 2023
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