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The laidback and rustic vibe on this side of the Philippines caught me off-guard. I have been to different places in the country that have almost the same kind of vibe but nothing seems to come close to this destination. It makes you fall in love with it and the experience lingers in you so much that you would want to come back. Everything here seems to command peace and serenity. This is #GuiuanAndOnly.  Let's go on a second dose of my #GuiuanAndOnly. Facing the vast waters of the Pacific Ocean, Guiuan played a silent role in Philippine history - from the arrival of the Spaniards to the liberation of the country in World War 2. You would not think that this quaint beautiful town witnessed historical milestones that most of us only got to read when we were in school. Guiuan is a paradise with stories to share and spots that will keep you amazed and wanting more. The Shrine St. Anthony of Padua (Sulangan) Also known as the Sulangan Church, the shrine was dedicated to St. Anthony de Padua who is the Patron Saint of lost items, lost people, and lost spiritual goods. Locals and devotees troop to the church because of it is believed to miraculous. People offer prayers to St. Anthony with the faith that he will grant it to them.
The quaint church was restored after it was damaged by typhoon Yolanda. Its interior was simple and elegant with a crown-shaped altar and a crucifix as its centerpiece. A smaller altar on the right flank of the church bears the revered image of St. Anthony of Padua. My visit was just in time because the parish was celebrating its annual fiesta. Miss Janet of the Guiuan Tourism Office shared with us that there were a number of activities lined up since it was the first face-to-face celebration after the pandemic. The activity includes the “panata” where the faithful would walk from different parts of Guiuan to Sulangan Church. Sulangan Bridge There is a different kind of love when it comes to bridges in Guiuan. Since the municipality are composed of islands, two major islands are connected by bridges to the mainland where the town center is located. Calicoan Island is connected to Guiuan via the Pagnamitan Bridge, which I featured in my previous blog, and Sulangan Island is linked by the Sulangan Bridge to Calicoan. These bridges have become an attraction in itself in Guiuan.  Getting ready for the customary bridge shot in Guiuan's Sulangan Bridge. The Sulangan Bridge is a steel bridge that spans a saltwater channel that separates the islands of Calicoan and Suluangan. From the bridge, you get to see the rustic beauty of the river side of Sulangan, the still waters of the channel, and a distant view of the island of Homonhon on the west. It is a perfect place to get that “walking on a bridge” shot and a perfect spot to laze around in the afternoon. Loading Point Beach (Sulangan) One thing that I really enjoyed in Guiuan was being able to crash into beach spots whenever there is one around. You are not charged any entrance fees so you get to enjoy the feel of the sun, sand, and saltwater on your skin ANYTIME you feel like it. The white sand beach spots were heaven for a beach bum like me.  Enjoying the sun, sea, and sand of Loading Beach with Homonhon Island on the horizon.
Loading Point is a white sand beach spot that is adjacent to Sulangan Bridge. The beach is located where the waters that go through the channel meet the waters of Leyte Gulf. It is a no-frills beach spot where you can rent a cottage to enjoy a full day of beach bumming or, just like me, I just found my corner by the shore to enjoy the view and its cool waters.
Loading Point offers a good view of Homonhon Island. It also gives you a different perspective of Sulangan Bridge. You can also enjoy its cool and still waters and, if your timing is perfect, you also get to catch its mini-sandbar. Linao Cave and Lagoon (Calicoan) I seriously need to thank the “diwatas” that guard Linao Cave for working their powers for me to experience the beauty of this natural wonder. It took three attempts before I finally got through the cave and enjoy the beauty and cool waters of its lagoon. I seriously think that I was destined to see its natural beauty despite of the circumstances.  Enjoying the cold waters and the serene vibe of Linao Cave. Linao Cave and Lagoon is one of the popular natural attractions of Guiuan. The name is derived from the local waray-waray word “linao” which means “clear” to describe the clear fresh waters of its lagoon. The lagoon is located inside a cavern with an overhead cave opening where light passes through. One needs to navigate through a small cave, located adjacent to the lagoon, and swim across a smaller pool to get there. Unfortunately, I was informed by the tourism office that the cave was recently closed to allow nature to recover from its tourism activities. They told me that I can try but they cannot give the assurance that I will be able to explore the cave and the lagoon. Getting to the location was relatively easy. The jump-off point is located along the main highway and, from there, one would have to walk 500 meters to the cave opening. With my tricycle driver/guide, Kuya Inoy, in tow, our first attempt had us going through the trail in its forested area that routed us back to the main highway. As it turned out, Kuya Inoy was not familiar with how to get to Linao Cave. Our second attempt had us starting all over again from the jump-off while I measured the distance that we trekked. We found another trail, where we made a wrong turn on our first attempt, that lead us to the mouth of the cave. Again, it was closed and we also figured out that we would need a guide to get inside.
As we were leaving, we came across the guide/caretaker of the property. He convinced us to go with him for a third try and this time he guided us through the cave where we had to scramble on rocks and swim across the pool in pitch dark and using a cellphone flashlight. We had successfully conquered Linao Cave and Lagoon!  You also get to enjoy nature's art with Linao Cave's rock formations. The best part of exploring the Linao was that we had the cave and lagoon all for ourselves. I was amazed at its beauty and I loved the serenity of the place. I loved how the sound of dripping water echoed inside the cavern. Of course, I did not miss out on the chance to take a cool and refreshing dip in its cold spring waters. My takeaway - keep trying because you will never get to see the what’s in store if you quit on your first try. Calicoan Surfing Spot (Calicoan) Guiuan faces the Pacific Ocean on the east. The waves in the Pacific and the coastline of Calicoan make it an ideal spot for surfing. In fact, Guiuan is said to be gearing itself to becoming the next surfing destination in the Philippines. So it is not a surprise that you would find surf schools in the Calicoan area.  I am enjoying beach bumming in Guiuan.
I managed to make a quick stop in one of the beaches in Calicoan where one can surf. It sits along the highway and, just like the other beaches in Guiuan, you can crash through it for free. The spot was nice and cozy with a couple of accommodations nearby. The sun was glaring along the coast and I managed to find myself a shaded spot along its white sand coastline.  A view of the Pacific Ocean from the shores of Calicoan. The beach is picturesque with its perfect view of the waters of the Pacific and white sand. You can hear the sound of the waves crashing from a distance. The water was still at the time of my visit and there was just one guy swimming. The sun was glaring on me but this was a spot where you get to enjoy the beach in its true essence - the breeze, the sound, and the warmth without the crowd. Veteran’s Park / Ngolos Naval Base (Calicoan) In the laidback barangay Ngolos is a park dedicated to the veterans of World War 2. The location is a mute witness to two significant events in Philippine history - during the circumnavigation of the world led by Magellan and during the the liberation of the Philippines in World War 2. As I would put it, Ngolos is hallowed grounds for the birth of our nation.  The Veteran's Park in Brgy. Ngolos was a former site of a WW2 naval base.
We all know that Gen. MacArthur fulfilled his “I shall return” promise when he landed in Palo, Leyte to signal the start of the liberation of the Philippines from Japanese hands. What most of us don’t know is that Guiuan was a vital point of the liberation. The town became one of the biggest naval bases in the Far East that was set up by the Americans. The Veteran’s Park was the location of the naval base. In fact, the barangay’s name Ngolos was derived from the name of the naval base - US Naval Ground Operations LOgistic Support Base. After the war, the military forces were pulled out and most of its structure were stripped. What is left of the former base are the remains of the camp’s flagpole and the concrete roads inside the camp. Nature has reclaimed most areas. A small park was installed as a reminder of Guiuan’s pivotal role in World War 2. Quincentennial Marker (Calicoan) History is engraved in the islands of Samar. The birth of the Philippines as a nation started on the islands under its jurisdiction. It was believed that Calicoan Island in Guiuan was the first island to be spotted by crew of Magellan before the fleet set foot in Homonhon Island.  The Quincentennial Marker located at Calicoan. It is believed that Magellan's fleet first caught sight of these shores.
As you head towards the beach front, you would come across two historical markers - the historical marker from the National Historical Institute written in Spanish and the Quincentennial Marker. Both markers celebrate the first circumnavigation of the world by Magellan. As narrated, the fleet of Magellan caught sight of the coastline of Calicoan but was not able to dock because of the island’s rugged coastline. The fleet continued on south where they eventually docked in Homonhon Island.  Standing on the shores that Magellan's eyes first laid on in the Philippines. It was a different feeling standing on the white sand shores on this side of Calicoan. You feel the sense of pride as I stood on the shores where our journey as a nation started and where we fought our ground to regain our pride as a country. This was the beauty that welcomed Magellan to our land. I was thinking… were they captivated? I also thought of how many soldiers sat on this shore to watch the sunrise before they went on to fight. How many of them lived to tell the beauty of this destination. I stood amazed as to how this laidback town is packed with natural beauty and a history that it continues to share. POST TRAVEL NOTES Guiuan is a gem waiting on the side for its turn to get a spotlight. I am happy that I changed my travel plans even if it meant I had to cram on my research while on the road. I got to see the raw beauty of the place from the eyes of how locals see and experience it. Guiuan captured my heart. It is a place that I would not hesitate to go back and explore. I loved everything about it. It slowed me down and it reminded me that my happy place will always be the ones that are laidback, rustic, and off the radar.  We are heading west on our next travel. Who would have thought that a change in my travel itinerary would introduce me to a destination that perfectly fits me? I have been to a number of place in the Philippines and Guiuan left a huge mark in me. I wouldn’t mind going back to this place to enjoy the Guiuan vibe. It is, unmistakably, a chance travel that had me wanting for more. Check out my #ByahengOffTheGrid Guiuan Youtube travel video blog here: #ByahengOffTheGrid Guiuan #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas #SamaSamangBabangonMuli #IWantSamar #EasternSamarOutThere #GuiuanAndOnly Getting there: To get to Guiuan, you can take a plane to Tacloban City from any major hub in the Philippines. You can then take a jeep or a trike from the airport to Van-vans Downtown Tacloban Teminal where you can take a van to Guiuan. Travel time from Tacloban to Guiuan is around 3-4 hours. Tourism Contact Person: Miss Janet Ramos at (0945) 4695971 Trike Contact for Guiuan Tour: Kuya Inoy at (0997) 9617295
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Travel opens you to changes and let’s you discover things because of these changes. A last minute change in my Samar Birthday trip last month led me to discover a small town on the Eastern side of the country that lets you enjoy a laidback beach vibe. This is Guiuan - a small town facing the Pacific that has volumes of history in the midst of its natural beauty.  Ladies and gentlemen, I would like to welcome you to another off-beat destination - Guiuan, Eastern Samar. Guiuan is a municipality that unknowingly played a significant part in Philippine history. Located on the southernmost coast of Eastern Samar, it was on the island of Homonhon that Magellan first set foot in the country during his historic voyage around the world. Fast forward 500 years later, Guiuan has kept its provincial laidback vibe and is starting to get traction in the tourism front as a surfing spot and for its natural attractions. Guiuan Municipal Hall My first stop as soon as I got to Guiuan was its municipal hall. My purpose was to get more information about how to get around Guiuan because, unlike other destinations, I was not met with habal-habal or trike drivers that offered tours despite my “turista” look. The new and sleek municipal hall is located a few blocks from the town center and you can choose to walk or take a trike going there.  The sleek-looking Guiuan Municipal Hall. The municipal hall serves as the center of governance in Guiuan and this is where you’d find most of the local government offices, including the tourism office. I got to meet Guiuan’s Tourism Officer, Miss Janet Ramos, who warmly accommodated and briefed me on the history and the attractions of their place. She went on to make transportation arrangements for me which was a huge help with my two-day stay in the laidback town. Meeting her and her team was my first taste of Guiuan’s warm hospitality. Immaculate Conception Parish Church At the heart of the town of Guiuan is the Immaculate Conception Parish Church, more popularly known as Guiuan Church. The church was founded by the Jesuits in 1595 and the stone church was built in 1817. The adjacent belfry was built next in 1854. The church was nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Philippines, however it was removed from the roster after Typhoon Haiyan destroyed the church.  The Spanish-period Guiuan Church sits at the heart of town. The church was completely restored in 2019 with only its belfry and stone walls intact from the old structure. The church sits within a fort and is known for its shell ornamentation. The church facade has a historical marker that outlines its brief history. The Guiuan Church was declared a National Cultural Treasure in 2001 by the National Museum.
The restored interiors of the church was a real beauty with its grand designs. This is the first time that I have seen a church with 3 retablos, two on the side walls, that are of the same size. Adjacent to the main altar, are two smaller chambers or prayer rooms bearing smaller altars. The church is popular for the shell designs that adorn the smaller chambers. These shell ornamentations are said to be made of 8 types of seashells giving the church a unique personality. Guiuan Town Plaza Just right across the Guiuan Church is the sprawling town plaza of Guiuan. Similar to other Spanish-period towns, the plaza serves as the heart of the town and, around it, are the three main elements of the community - governance, religion, and commerce. I guess the Municipal Hall was once located within the same area.  The Rizal Monument stands on one side of the Guiuan Town Plaza. The Guiuan Town Plaza has a corner that honors Dr. Jose Rizal. A children’s playground and open park are located adjacent to the Rizal monument. This is where you would find the “I ❤️ Guiuan” sign. Right across the park is the huge auditorium where town activities are held. DOST - PAGASA Guiuan Weather Station The Radar, as most locals would call it, is a weather station equipped with a doppler radar system located in Guiuan. Renovated with the aid of the JICA, the station helps in predicting weather movement in the country and helps mitigate the impact of weather disturbances on lives and livelihoods. It is more than just a monitoring station of PAGASA because it is also part of the attractions of the municipality.  The "Radar", as locals call it, offer an amazing view of the Pacific Ocean. Located around 60 meters above sea level and facing the Pacific Ocean, the station offers an amazing view of the Pacific coastline of Guiuan. One needs to go on a short and steep hike on the seaside hill to reach the station. Guests are treated to a beautiful 180-degree view of the Pacific Ocean, Dumpao Beach, and Calicoan Island. One also gets to enjoy the relaxing sea breeze blowing in from the Pacific while enjoying the view of the sea and the island. Dumpao Beach Dumpao Beach is a simple and relaxing beach that is a few minutes from the town center. It is a long stretch of white sand beach that faces the Pacific Ocean. Interestingly, the waters are not deep and still because the waves break off-shore making the beach ideal for kids and the kids-at-heart.  A perfect Pacific beach view at Dumpao Beach. The beach is pristine and laidback. It was a perfect place to chill in the afternoon, either by taking a dip or just simply walking along the length of its shoreline. You don’t get charged for entrance fees, although, you need to pay for hut rentals if you intend to use one. The waves break a few meters from the shore giving the shoreline shallow still waters that is perfect for pictures or enjoying the feel of saltwater on your feet. There were areas along the beach that had rock formations. Again, it was a perfect backdrop for those dramatic shots. It is a perfect beach spot if you are looking for an unadulterated and no-crowd beach spot in Guiuan. Pagnamitan Natural Pools If there was one attraction and activity that caught my attention in Guiuan, it would have to be the Pagnamitan Natural Pools. A video of a man being carried by water current as he slid down under the bridge to the pools convinced me to change the original plan for this trip. I just had to try that one out in Guiuan.  The Pagnamitan Bridge connects Guiuan to the island of Calicoan. The islands of Guiuan and Calicoan is connected by the Pagnamitan Bridge. The bridge spans a channel that connects the Pacific Ocean and the Leyte Gulf. On the side leading to the Leyte Gulf are two pools that has a depth of 3 feet to 7 feet, depending on the tide. Some say that these “pools” were bomb craters from World War 2 while others would say that it was from a dynamite explosion. However it was created, these natural pools is now one of the attractions in Guiuan.  Locals enjoying the waters of the Pagnamitan pools. When the tides are high, one can "slide" under the bridge. At a certain time of the day, seawater from the Pacific Ocean would flow down under the bridge. The current is strong enough to make a person go with the flow and one would float from one side to the other, passing under the bridge. Unfortunately, I was not able to take on the challenge because the tides were not in my favor. Guiuan Airstrip Unknown to many, Guiuan is significant in Philippine history. The island of Homonhon, where Magellan first set foot, is under its jurisdiction. It also served as the base of liberation forces during World War 2.  The Guiuan Airport is a favorite afternoon spot for a quick jog while waiting for the sunset.
Establishing the base camp for liberation forces paved the way for the construction of an airport in Guiuan. The airport would accommodate the war aircrafts during the liberation of the Philippines. It originally had 2 airstrips and there are claims that it hosted the biggest landing force during the war. The airport was later turned over to the Philippines by the Americans after the war. At present, the Guiuan Airport is considered a feeder airport and has only 1 operational runway. It was used as a hub during the Typhoon Yolanda relief operations. There are plans to develop the airport to accommodate commercial flights to help boost commerce and tourism in the area. The airport is also a favorite local spot for afternoon exercises and, interestingly, for sunset viewing. POST TRAVEL NOTES Change is a constant in our world and, often times, change gives us the opportunity to discover something new that will sweep us off our feet. Guiuan was no exception and it took a video of a smiling man being carried by flowing seawater under a bridge to catch my attention and change my plans for this birthday trip. It did not disappoint. I discovered a destination that lived off a simple vibe in a natural setting - a complete back to basic feel. But wait… there is more.  But wait... there is more. Papunta pa lang tayo sa exciting part. Travel gave me the opportunity to see the world beyond my usual. Mainstream and off-beat destinations have given me a glimpse of both worlds. I must say I love off-beat destinations more because I like the vibe that stands closer to how locals live daily and enjoy their place. I guess I am the person who loves destinations where you go with how the day of the locals go. Check out my #ByahengOffTheGrid Guiuan Youtube travel video blog here: #ByahengOffTheGrid Guiuan #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas #SamaSamangBabangonMuli #IWantSamar #EasternSamarOutThere Getting there: To get to Guiuan, you can take a plane to Tacloban City from any major hub in the Philippines. You can then take a jeep or a trike from the airport to Van-vans Downtown Tacloban Teminal where you can take a van to Guiuan. Travel time from Tacloban to Guiuan is around 3-4 hours. Tourism Contact Person: Miss Janet Ramos at (0945) 4695971 Trike Contact for Guiuan Tour: Kuya Inoy at (0997) 9617295
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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