marc7 travels |
Beyond the howling of Catanduanes’ popular tourist trail are other gems that are worth discovering. We explored the rough and rugged eastern side of the province on my previous blog and this time we discovered what the north western side has to offer. Get ready to be surprised as we explore the softer side of Catanduanes. After a three-hour journey through the winding roads of Catanduanes in pitch black darkness, our team touched down in Pandan. The town is one of the pre-Spanish settlements in the province and was named after the plant of the same name that grew abundantly in the place. These plants were the first line of defense of locals against moro raids during earlier times. At present, the laidback municipality is the home of some amazing natural attractions that will blow your mind. Murao Beach, Pandan An early morning boat ride along the coast of Pandan started our adventure on Catanduanes’ subtle side. Waves still roll on this side of the province and you can see how these waves crash along its shoreline. It actually made me think if surfers have ventured out on these shorelines. The coastline of Pandan is a mix of sandy coves, sloping grasslands, and rocky cliffs which will keep you amused through the 45-minute ride. Our first stop is the small sandy cove of Murao Beach. This small strip of cream-colored sand is the jump off point to Pandan’s version of rolling hills. The beach strip is pristine and untouched where you can enjoy some solitary moment by the beach. Cagnipa Rolling Hills / Orland Rolling Hills Cagnipa and Orland are Pandan’s own version of the rolling hills. The viewing point can be reached after a 30-minute hike along a dirt trail from Murao Beach. The trail is lined with the thorny pandan plant where Pandan got its name. As you break into an open field, you will be amazed by the view of verdant green pastures. If your back is on the side of Murao Beach, Cagnipa Rolling Hills is on the right side and Orland is on the left. Don’t be surprised if you find carabaos grazing along the hills. The view of Cagnipa are hills rolling inland. It gives you a 180-degree view of the farmlands of Pandan. Orland Rolling Hills gives you a more dramatic view of the hills, cliffs, beach coves, and the sea. The highest point of Orland Hills gives you a full view of Cagnipa and the cream-colored sand beach cove at the bottom of it. Our guide shares with us that the cove is part of Murao Beach. Orland Rolling Hills is the perfect vantage point to view the cove and the northern seascape of Catanduanes. The rolling hills and the coves can be accessed two ways, from the sea and by land. We saw a couple of bikers who took the land route to these rolling hills. Tuwad Tuwadan Lagoon The place got its name because, during earlier years, one has to bend over or make “tuwad” in climbing down the rocky cliff side to get to the lagoon. The small saltwater lagoon is connected to the sea and only a small rock formation divides it. The lagoon is surrounded by sharp and slippery rock edges which makes maneouvering around it difficult. The landscape nonetheless is dramatic which is a good spot for photos. The water in its pool is around 10 feet deep that one can safely jump in for a quick swim. Its cool and clear waters was a refreshing respite from the heat of the sun and the short trek. The lagoon cannot be seen from Orlando Rolling Hills. At present, access to it is easier with the construction of cemented stairs from Orlando down to the lagoon. Tignob Island Tignob Island is Catanduanes’ hidden gem. The island off the coast of Caramoran is a pristine white sand beach paradise with crystal clear waters. It remains untouched so expect to go bare on this island - no cottages, no restrooms, and no tourist facilities. Visitors of this island would have to find shelter from the heat under the shade of trees along its shoreline. You have got to find your spot if you need to relieve yourself. Expect the basic of the basics. The beauty of Tignob Island overshadows its ruggedness. Its powdery white sand and its clear turquoise waters are its main draw. A simple lunch under the tree shade as you enjoy the breeze blowing from the sea is a perfect lunch picnic on the island. You can opt to chill out or take a dip in its cool waters after lunch. I opted to lie down to enjoy the view of the clear blue skies while enjoying the warm rays of the sun. Tignob defines “beach chill” perfectly. On one side of the beach is a small hill that you can climb to get a full view of Tignob’s beauty. The spot offers an amazing top view of its white sand beachfront. The view is just perfect. The other side of the hill gives you a more dramatic view with its rock formations. The cliffs look like guardians protecting the beauty of Tignob. This spot is good for photo ops with its ruggedness and drama. On a clear day, you can see the islands of Caramoan from a distance. Tignob Island’s beauty and ruggedness is a perfect beach spot for off-beat travelers. Bitaog Beach Not far from Tignob Island is another rustic beach destination - Bitaog Beach. Located within the Palumbanes Group of Islands, this rustic white sand beach spot remains untouched by commercialism despite having local residents living in the island. I guess the island, including Tignob, remain under the radar because of the popularity of the nearby islands in Caramoan. Again, those who want to try the basics of beach chilling will be charmed by the rawness of Bitaog Beach. We were met by local kids as our boat docked onto the shores of Bitaog Beach. Its clear waters were the kids playground for the day as we marveled on the view of the untouched white sandy shores and turquoise waters. Climbing onto a rock formation gives you a full view of its natural beauty. Karanyan As we headed back to Pandan, we made a brief stop in Karanyan for its sandbar. Unfortunately, the tide was still high at the time so the sandbar was nowhere in sight. But the place in itself has its own charm. Karanyan is a place where mangrove trees abound. The mangrove trees are further inland along an area where sea water is collected on a basin surrounded by land. The inland body of water is connects to the sea during high tide. When the water recedes during low tide, the sandbar landlocks the seawaters inland. Karanyan and its golden sandy shores. Karanyan may not be as picturisque as that of Tignob or Bitaog. But the view of its brown sand and mangroves against the mountains of Pandan gives the place its own charm. Post Travel Notes: Beyond its howling winds, Catanduanes is a tourism gold mine for local travel. It is an off beat destination that is slowly attracting mainstream tourists because of its promising natural attractions. Its unique combination of rugged and chill-out spots cater to both the adventurous kind of travelers down to the FB type. There is something to offer for every kind of traveler in Catanduanes. Exploring the spots of Catanduanes was one surprise after another that kept me on the edge of my seat. It was a trip where I came home amazed and excited to share the experience. The province made an impression that whenever people ask me how the trip was, I tell them that it is a trip worth taking and that I would not hesitate on visiting the province again. The amazing and unique mix of rugged cliffs, white sand beaches, and history against the backdrop of the rising sun make Catanduanes a province worth howling for. Getting there: Virac is accessible by plane and by RORO. One can fly direct from Manila via Cebu Pacific with flights to Virac 3x a week. Alternatively, one can also take a plane to Legazpi City then take a one hour land travel to Tabaco Port where one can take the ferry to Virac or San Andres in Catanduanes. Major bus lines also ply the route of Manila - Tabaco Port or even Virac. Our Catanduanes trip was organized by the FB travel organizer, Bernation, who mapped out our itinerary, transportation arrangements, and accomodations. Kudos to its head, Bernard, for a very smooth and organized trip. Highly recommended! Follow Bernation on Facebook to get more information on their upcoming trips.
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Our plane touched down at 6.40am. I arrived 4 hours ahead of the group that I was suppose to join for this trip. As I stepped out of airport passenger terminal, the RORO that the group boarded just pulled out of Tabaco Port for their 4 hour sea trip to the province that is often referred to as the “Land of the Howling Winds”. Catanduanes is an island province off the coast of the Bicol Peninsula facing the Pacific Ocean. Its location lies along the path of typhoons coming from the Pacific during the rainy season. It is for this reason that Catanduanes is more popularly referred to as the “Land of the Howling Winds” because it is one of the first to be battered by these often destructive typhoons. Catanduanes is the most progressive province in the Bicol Region with its economy rooted in agriculture, fishing, and tourism. Its provincial capital, Virac, is the center for commerce, education, and governance. It also serves as the main gateway to the province. There are a lot of interesting destinations to head off to when you find yourself in Virac. In fact, do not be surprised if local drivers will offer you package tours around the area. On this blog, I will be sharing with you the usual tourist route that most travelers take in search for Catanduanes’ howling winds. Virac Cathedral At the heart Virac is an imposing structure that dominates the skyline of the town. The Our Lady of the Immaculate Concepcion is the center of faith of the province. You will be amazed at the grand interior of the church with its high ceiling and broad navel. The stained-glass windows are a marvel to see as the morning sun rays seep through these windows. Adjacent to the the church is its belfry. The church is undergoing a facelift at the time of our visit so there is not much to see on its facade except for the huge church doors leading inside the church. Twin Rocks Resort One of the popular spots that I often come across on Instagram and travel blogs is Virac’s Twin Rocks. Since I had about 3 hours of lead time from the group, I decided to hop on a trike and head off to this famous Catanduanes landmark. Situated 20 minutes away from the town proper, the road to the resort offers amazing views of Catanduanes’ rice fields and hills. The morning breeze and the views was a good way to start our adventure. The famous Twin Rocks is sits within the premises of a resort of the same name. For an entrance fee of Php50 per head, you have access to resort’s facilities and you are free to roam around the area. The resort has a pool, restaurant, picnic tables, and rooms for those intending to stay overnight at the resort. The main attraction of the resort is its cream-colored sand cove where you can view the twin rock formations along its coast. The rock formation can be reached by foot during low tide as the waters are calm within the cove. The rugged rock formation jutting out of its waters create a dramatic seascape. For those who want a taste of adventure, one can try out the zipline or zipbike facility of the resort for an additional fee. Or you may opt to walk towards the outpost where you can try jumping from a platform into the cool waters of the cove. Unfortunately, I was not ready for this kind of adventure so I simply enjoyed chilling out by the beach while enjoying the view and the peaceful ambiance of the resort. PAGASA Weather Station (Bato) At 11am, the whole Bernation Catanduanes group met at the Virac Port and we boarded a van and headed off to our first stop - the PAGASA Weather Station. Typhoons are nothing new to Catanduanes. It is one of the places that receives the first blow of typhoons coming from the Pacific. It is no wonder that the country’s weather agency built a station that monitors these weather disturbances. Situated atop one of the hills of Bato, the Catanduanes PAGASA Weather Station is one of the most advanced in the country. It was inaugurated in May 2012 and is one of the projects in partnership with the Japan International Cooperation Agency. The real beauty of the weather station is not only on its advance equipments but on the amazing views of Catanduanes’ landscape and seascape. The summer skies matched perfectly with the provinces landscape. Bato Church (Bato) Standing majestically by the riverside, Bato Church, also known as the St. John the Baptist Church, is the one of the oldest in the province of Catanduanes. The church was completed in 1830 to replace the original wooden church. The church was built from coral stones and its age is evident in its simple facade. Plants have started to sprout on some crevices of the church. The belfry sits on the second level of the facade. It is topped by a cuppola with a cross. The wings of the church bears the image of a female saint. The staircase leading to the doors adds drama to its beauty. The interior is a mix of the old and the new. The walls of the navel shows its age with parts of the wall covered with moss. The church’s inticately designed retablo stand out for its modern look and feel. It is easy to fall in love with Bato Church. Its age and its history is a real beauty that stands out in the rustic and rugged Catanduanes landscape. Sakahon Beach / Mamonglo Island (Bato) Tucked on on the southern end of Bato is an unspoiled beach spot that glows with its golden sugar-like sand. The stretch of the beach is still in its raw state which made it very appealing. Mamonglo Island juts out of its waters, not far from the shore, and it resembles the shape of a turtle from afar. The beach is the jump off point of the Bote Lighthouse. There are no beach huts or establishments along the shoreline of Sakahon. The closest is about 300 meters away that is run by one of the locals. Sakahon Beach is a real beauty that is waiting to be discovered and I hope that when that time comes, the community is ready and equipped with a sustainable tourism program. Bote Lighthouse / Nakangangang Buwaya 45 minutes of huffing and puffing on a steep uphill trail will bring you to the Bote Lighthouse. This modern lighthouse is perched atop a hill and surrounded by vegetation. But do not worry because you will be rewarded with an amazing 360-degree view of Catanduanes’ own version of rolling hills and the waters of the Pacific. The vantage point will also give you an amazing view of Nakangangang Buwaya - a strip of land on the eastern side of Bato that resembles the shape of a crocodile. The real challenge is getting to the top because of its rocky trail and the steep ascent that would literally leave you breathless. But then again, the amazing view from the top of the lighthouse makes the trek worth taking. Maribina Falls (Bato) Maribina Falls is one of the popular tourist spots in Catanduanes. One can explore and appreciate its natural beauty without having to go through tedious treks as vehicles can easily drive up right to its doorstep. Conveniently located within the boundaries of Marinhawa and Binanhawan, Maribina Falls was named by combining the names of these villages. The attraction was developed as a picnic spot, complete with picnic huts, and is now being managed by the local government. Its facilities and accessibility make it a favorite weekend spot among the locals of Catanduanes. So you can expect the crowd to get pretty crowded during the weekend. One will be amazed with the beauty of the falls as you watch mountain waters gushing down a 6-meter high rock face. The water cascades down a deep basin at its foot where one can easily enjoy a relaxing swim. The water then continues downstream in a series of mini-falls and small catch basins. There are many vantage points to choose from where you can get a good view of the falls. I opted to explore upstream where I got to view its beauty from the top of its main cascade. Puraran Beach With the howling winds from the Pacific, Catanduanes is one of the many spots on the eastern side of the Philippines where you can enjoy surfing. The winds from the eastern seaboard of the Philippines create powerful waves that could teach a newbie to surf and can challenge the experienced surfer. At the heart of this surfing activity is Puraran Beach. Tucked in a secluded part of Baras, the beach exudes an appealing rustic feel. Its cream-colored sand and off-shore rock formation complete the vibe Puraran Beach. There are only a few establishments in the area and they are located a hundred meters away from the beach. This gives its guests a long and wide beachfront to explore and enjoy. Don’t expect a lot of activities by the beach. You can enjoy sunbathing, swimming, or beach bumming along the stretch of its coast. Occasionally, you can probably enjoy a game or two of beach volleyball with other guests and locals. Or you can try to be a little more adventurous by learning how to surf and enjoy riding its waves. There are a couple of small restaurants in the area and, if you are lucky like us, you can grab a meal of freshly cooked lobster that were caught straight out of the waters of Catanduanes. It is the best place to spend a night before heading off to a pre-dawn trip to Binurong Point. Binurong Point Of course, a trip to Catanduanes is not complete without checking out the prime tourist icon of the province - Binurong Point. Located on the eastern coast of Catanduanes facing the Pacific Ocean, Binurong Point is one of the best places to catch the sunrise. The trip to Binurong Point starts out with a very early morning trip through the winding roads of Baras to its jump-off point. You would then have to register and get a guide for a 30 to 40 minute uphill trek to the viewing deck. You get to enjoy the beautiful star-filled sky and lush greeneries through the trek. As we broke out onto the viewing point of Binurong, we already saw the first rays of the sun breaking out on the skyline. Binurong Point is a wide expanse of rolling hills and cliffs along the edge of Catanduanes’ eastern shoreline and there are many spots to choose from to sit down and watch the sunrise. We took our spot on one of its cliffside and watched a glorious morning being born. Watching the sunrise in Binurong Point was majestic. I was eagerly trying to catch photos of the morning sun breaking onto the sky from the Pacific but I stopped at one point just to enjoy its beauty. As the sun takes its usual course, it reveals the amazing landscape and seascape of Binurong Point. It is a combination of verdant green rolling hills, dramatic cliffs, and crashing waves. The morning sun gave the whole scene a golden glow that made photos and selfies look better. You can explore the place and find your own spot in Binurong Point for that perfect shot. Post Travel Notes: Catanduanes is one of the many Philippine destinations that is slowly coming out of the shadows to reveal its very own proposition in tourism. Its rustic and rugged vibe make it appealing to travelers who are searching for something different. The province is popular among surfers, no doubt, but it has more to offer than just riding the Pacific waves. Its other natural and historical attractions have started to catch the attention of local travelers which is a good start. The winds may howl over Catanduanes but its beauty howls stronger. Even if typhoons smash into its landscape, the very same coastline promises a majestic view of the sun rising on the horizon. Nature has a funny sense of humor - the very land that it smashes with its destructive force is the same land where the promise of a new day is best viewed. Getting there: Virac is accessible by plane and by RORO. One can fly direct from Manila via Cebu Pacific with flights to Virac 3x a week. Alternatively, one can also take a plane to Legazpi City then take a one hour land travel to Tabaco Port where one can take the ferry to Virac or San Andres in Catanduanes. Major bus lines also ply the route of Manila - Tabaco Port or even Virac. Our Catanduanes trip was organized by the FB travel organizer, Bernation, who mapped out our itinerary, transportation arrangements, and accomodations. Kudos to its head, Bernard, for a very smooth and organized trip. Highly recommended! Follow Bernation on Facebook to get more information on their upcoming trips. So after three days of exploring Batan and Sabtang Islands, you find yourself with an extra day in Basco. This small municipality is the province’s capitol and serves as its main gateway. Don’t be deceived by its laidback atmosphere because the place is brimming with interesting stuff to do that will keep you busy for a day. Here are seven must-do’s when you are in Basco: Basco Food Trip Basco is an interesting food hotspot. The province has its own unique delicacies that will delight your palate. All island tours are inclusive of lunch so there is a huge chance that you will get a taste of Batanes’ cuisine. Don’t be surprised if you get to be served a lot yellow rice and camote. Batanes has an abundance of turmeric which they mix with rice while the root crop camote gets to be served in various ways - okoy, camote cue, minatamis, and camote turon. One of the delicacies that I really loved and I suggest that you try is the Uvud. It is a native delicacy similar to meatballs that is made from grated banana stalks, meat, and fish. It is served in a broth. Two of our well-loved restaurants in Basco is the Ivatan Pension House and Beehan. The Ivatan Pension House, located near the airport, serves a platter called “Best of Batanes” that serves beef cooked in four ways. Beehan is located near the police headquarters of Basco and this is where you can enjoy Pancit Ivatan - a Batanes noodle cuisine. Make sure that you give your tummy a treat when in Basco. Bike/Walk around town The best way to explore is either on a bike or by foot. Head up to the Basco Lighthouse to enjoy a panoramic view of the town. Make sure to drop by the historical Basco Church and the Provincial Capitol along the way. Walk around the streets of Basco and enjoy the local’s simple way of life. Enjoy a quick chat with Manang over isaw and barbecue. Or you can just simply sit down and chill at the sprawling town plaza to just watch the day go by. Or if you still the energy, you can bike through the winding roads of Batan and explore the town of Mahatao. Art Find At the heart of Basco is another art center/shop that displays artworks done by Ivatan artists. The Yaru Art Gallery, along the National Road, will excite art lovers with its varied artworks that depict life in Batanes. You can buy handpainted stone souvenirs and Batanes postcards that feature paintings of their famous Ivatan stonehouses. If you are fascinated with local art, this is a great place to get a steal of amazing Ivatan artworks. Send Yourself A Postcard I got this idea from the movie “Sakaling Hindi Makarating” so I bought a set of postcards from Yaru Art Gallery, scribbled an interesting message addressed to me, headed to Postal Office near the town plaza, and mailed the postcard to my home. Two months after, I finally received my postcard to remind me of my trip in Batanes. I think it is a good souvenir from the trip with the Batanes postal stamp. FB Check-in Challenge For social media guys, here is one challenge that you got to do in Batanes - doing an FB Check-in! Although mobile network signals are relatively strong in Basco, data coverage is hard to come by or none, at all. Your lucky if your accomodation or cafe offer wifi services but for majority of these places, there is none. But do not fret, there is one location in town where you can buy at least 50MB for Php50. A bit pricey, right? But for a social media addict, it is a price to pay to be connected. The challenge is to find that spot, get connected, and legitimately check-in on Facebook. Here is a clue so you can find the spot - the place sells medicine. Happy hunting! Chilling by the Cliff Just right outside Basco is a viewing deck where you can hang out if you want to avoid the crowd. It is just biking/walking distance from the town center, towards the direction of Mahatao. It is about 300 meters from Octagon, another popular restaurant in Basco. The spot is marked by the “Welcome to Basco” arch. The viewing deck is not as amazing as that of the Chawa Viewdeck but it gives you a glimpse of Batanes’ port area with the Basco Lighthouse on the background. Every now and then, you would hear a “boom” sound from the small rock formation. The sound comes from the hollow cave when huge waves crash onto the rock formation. It is a great place to sit back and chill with the sound of the sea in the background. If you are there early, you may chance upon airplanes on their final approach or taking off from the Basco Airport. Souvenir Hunt Well, the best way to enjoy a day in Basco is to go around and hunt for souvenirs. There are a lot of shops to go around. You can choose to get a personalized shirt, key chains, ref magnets, artworks, etc. Name it they have it. Batanes has a very organized tourism economy so there are a lot of souvenirs to choose from. Interesting local produce finds are turmeric powder and tea, camote chips, and camote cookies. You can also buy kanayi or vakul on some shops in town if you want to own this local protective attire. Post Travel Notes Whether your chilling out or you are shopping in Basco, one thing will definitely stand out - the simple life in Batanes. You will be amused with how locals get to enjoy the laidback life of the province. Time slows down in Batanes and walking or biking around town is the best way to get from one point to another. Batanes made me realize that life is simple. It teaches you to appreciate the things that we usually take for granted because it is readily available to us. It enlightens you that the best way to face life is to appreciate the small things and to find the simple things that make you smile. Dios Mamajes, Batanes! Getting there: Air Swift, Philippine Airlines, and Sky Jet have direct flights to Basco from Manila and Clark. We scored good priced airline tickets in one of the travel fairs held here in the metro through Air Swift. Air Swift flies to Basco 4x a week and there services are good. You can check out their ongoing promos here. Marfel’s Lodge is a great place to stay-in when you are in Batanes. They have great accommodations and their staff are very helpful. You can check them out on Facebook or you can also call (0908) 8931475 for your inquiries. You can also contact Kuya Joaquin at (0947) 1069342 for your Batanes tour packages. Remember that the rates for their tours are standard. Their 3-Day package costs Php4500 per head for a group of three and it covers the North Batan tour, the South Batan tour, and Sabtang Island. Lunch for the three days are already included in the package. Kuya Waks will make sure that you get to enjoy Batanes with fun facts about Batanes to bring home. |
Marc del Rosario
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November 2024
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