The scenic landscape, the rugged seascape, the stone houses, and the Ivatan’s amazing culture make Batanes one of the sought after destinations in the Philippines. It is not a surprise that every traveler, both reel and the real, are always on the lookout for a good airline offer to the country’s northernmost province. Well, you cannot blame them because, judging from what you see on social media, Batanes seems to be a different world in itself.

When we chanced upon a good airline offer to Batanes in one of the travel fairs in 2017, our travel gang did not bat an eye. It was a good opportunity to explore a country that a lot of people were raving about and a lot more wanting to explore.

The faluwa, a local boat without the usual “katig”, rocked steadily as I jumped onto the platform and then on the solid ground of the port. It took us only 30-minutes to cross the channel that lies between Batan and Sabtang. We were on our second day of exploring Batanes and today’s itinerary was Sabtang Island

Sabtang Island is one of the three inhabited islands of Batanes. Located on the southern part of the province, Sabtang Island is popular for its picturisque landscape and well-preserved Ivatan stone houses. This is where you get the most exposure on Batanes’ famous stone houses.

Sabtang Port and Lighthouse

The sea trip from Batan Island to Sabtang Island roughly takes about 30 minutes on a good day. Take not of the operative word “roughly”. The waves between the two island can get really nasty and rough but still manageable, according to locals. In fact, our definition of rough waters is actually their type of calm. Nevertheless, it is a boat ride worth taking.

The first thing that will catch your eye is the Sabtang Lighthouse perched atop a cliff facing the channel. It is an active lighthouse and is one of the three popular lighthouses in Batanes. The lighthouse and the rugged landscape will captivate you and will take your mind off the waves rocking the faluwa.

San Vicente Ferrer Church (Sabtang Church)

A few meters from the Sabtang Port is a small church that is a mute witness to the colorful history of Sabtang. The San Vicente Ferrer Church, more popularly known as Sabtang Church, was first established in 1785. The cream-colored church dominates the skyline of the town with its simple facade and its belfry, with two bells, atop the church’s facade.

The church’s interior complements the simplicity of its facade. The church’s interior is higlighted by a two-tiered retablo bearing the image of its patron saint.

Batanes Bisumi Fighters Memorial

A few meters away from the church is another historical marker honoring the Bisumi fighters of Batanes. These freedom fighters took arms against the Japanese during World War 2 and was persecuted by the invading forces.

The historical marker can be found in front of the building beside the school.

Morong Beach and Natural Stone Arch

After we registered at the local tourism office of Sabtang, we headed to one of Batanes’ iconic spot - the Natural Stone Arch at Morong Beach. The 20-minute drive to the spot gave us a preview of Sabtang’s amazing landscape with its sloping hills and white sand shores of the island.

The view of the cove of Morong Beach and its white sand was a much needed breather. It’s been a while since I last breathed in the smell of the sea. The beach is a popular stop and one of the most photographed spots in Batanes because of its natural stone arch that is perched on the left side of the beach when you are facing the sea. Natural forces have molded it to form a pass-through cavity into a solid rock forming a natural arch or “ahaw”.

I walked barefoot on the sand and just breathed in the salty smell of the sea while a group of students took their turns taking pictures of and with the arch. While waiting for our turn, I just enjoyed the view of strong waves smashing onto the shores of the beach. I was thinking of taking a dip but I decided not to after feeling the icy cold water submerge my feet. I am not a huge fan of cold water but it did relax my soles.

Finally, we took our turn taking our pictures with the arch. We had to hurry up a bit as there were others waiting for their turn. It pays that you be one of the first on site or be with the last group to visit the arch because it is very hard to control the excitement of guests for you to get a clean shot of the “ahaw”. It also helps that guests have the courtesy to also stay clear of the area after they had their turn.

Savidug Stone Houses and the Kanayi

Savidug is one of the villages in Sabtang where you get a face-to-face encounter with Batanes’ famous stone houses. The houses that line the streets have withstood years, even centuries, of weather, nature, and modern development. Kuya Joaquin, our guide, shared with us that a usual Ivatan stone house is comprised of three small stone houses in one compound - one serves as the receiving area and sleeping area, one is used as a bathroom, and one serves as a kitchen. These houses were built separately to minimize damage when one area gets badly hit by a typhoon. Well, it does sound logical. These houses are fortified by thick slabs of stone to withstand the strong typhoon winds and rain.

Most of these houses still stand today with a couple in disarray. The best way to enjoy Savidug is to walk its street and narrow alleys and you will be amused by the rows and rows of stone houses that you will find. It will also give you that feel of the simple lives of the local Ivatans. I had the privilege of having a short interaction of two locals in their senior years who were also game to have a groupie with me.

One thing that I definitely enjoyed was the chance to wear a “kanayi” - it is a local all-weather Ivatan sleeveless jacket made from either vuyavuy leaves or banana leaves. The kanayi comes with a hat and is mostly worn by men. It can protect you from the heat of the sun and from the cold rain. The ladies have their own version called the “vakul”. It is also protective headgear against the heat and the cold. I really found the “kanayi” and “vakul” interesting that I am thinking of having Asher use it in one of their “Linggo ng Wika” celebration. I guess it is time to bring these local clothes into the limelight.
 
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint
 
Sabtang Island has a healthy mix of sandy shores and rugged terrains and the Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint offers the best sweeping view of this unique mix. This is where you get a full view of Sabtang’s rugged terrain meeting the rough waters of the sea. From the main road, a dirt trail will lead you to various points of Chamantad-Tinuyan that offers different viewing point perspectives. The trail can be challenging for those who are afraid of heights because it traverses along steep points of the hills, at certain points. It is a thrill to actually see what lies below. The dizzying height and the strong winds trying to outbalance you create a challenge for some.

The view deck offers an amazing view of the land and sea. It has an interesting mix of rolling hills, rugged cliffs, the waves smashing onto the shores, and a peaceful white sand cove. The deck overlooks the cream-colored sand cove and it stands out from all the ruggedness. It is like a peaceful haven amidst the ruggedness.

There are two spots where I feel you can get a good shot of the cove. The first spot is along the sloping meadow just below the trail prior to the steep ascent to one of the highest point of the deck. This is where you can play around with your camera to get that “chilling out” shot while sitting or lying down on the verdant green grass with the cove at the background.

The other point is the deck that overlooks the cove. This is where you will get a full 360-degree view of the whole area. The height and the view of the drop from the top can be frightening. But you don’t need to look down because the sweeping view of Sabtang’s landscape and seascape will be enough to relax you.

Chavayan Village

Our last stop for our Sabtang tour is the cradle of Ivatan culture and heritage - the Chavayan Village. The village sits within a cove that has protected it from nature’s fury keeping it safe and preserving most of the structures. Strolling around the small village’s street will give you a visual treat of rows and rows of century-old Ivatan houses. The village is also the home of the only remaining church in Batanes where the roofs are made of cogon. Too bad though that we did not explore it as much as we did in Savidug.

At the entrance of the village is where you will also find Ivatan weavers where they get to showcase their skills in weaving the “vakul” and “kanayi”. You can also purchase these famous Batanes’ protective clothing as souvenirs of your trip.

Post Travel Notes

As our faluwa rammed through even bigger waves when we were headed back to Ivana Port that afternoon, I felt that our Batanes trip was getting to be more exciting. Batanes is known for two things - its rolling hills and its stone houses and Sabtang gave us the thrill of experiencing the province’s tourism value proposition.

Sabtang had me more engaged and excited with its history, culture, and heritage. It was exciting to walk the streets of Savidug and Chavayan, wearing a Kanayi, knowing that its rich history is intact and, partly, remains untouched to this day. It was interesting how much stories the houses could share if only its stone walls could talk. Stories that would span hundreds of years. It is great to see that the locals of Sabtang was able to preserve much of their past in the present.

Not to be outdone are the rugged terrain of the island that keeps its guests in awe, wonder after wonder. Unlike our North Batan tour, we had more episodes of running around like excited kids trying to capture every beautiful angle that our eyes could catch. It is a beautiful island that has a unique mix of nature’s ruggedness and subtlety.

In my opinion, Sabtang Island gives you a complete feel of the Batanes experience - the heritage, the history, the natural wonder, and the amazing culture of the Ivatans. If you have a very limited time to go around or if you are going back to explore Batanes again, Sabtang Island should definitely be on your list.

Don’t worry the waves of Sabtang are manageable.

Nothing beats lying down along on the grassy slopes while enjoying the cool breeze and the amazing views of Batanes’ green rolling hills and the sea. If there was one view that really captured the essence of my first travel in 2018, this was it. The view simply exuded peace and tranquility, not to mention that it gave me the peace of mind that everything was going to be fine. I literally could spend hours just watching the amazing views of its famed Marlboro Country. That moment will forever be etched in my Batanes memories.

Arriving in Basco quarter past 7am, you could already feel the different vibe of the province. It is void of the usual fanfare of a tourist destination airport. You take your time walking from the plane to the tarmac without ground crews urging you to go faster. You walk into the arrival hall, register, and wait for your luggage to be released. No one is in a hurry as if time slowed down its pace while we were cruising at 20,000 feet on our way to the north.

Basco is the gateway of the Philippines’ northernmost province. Nestled at the foot of Mount Iraya, this 5th class municipality serves as the province’s capital to a population of only 18, 000 scattered in its 6 municipalities. The whole province is a protected area because of its amazing landscape and seascape, its colorful culture, and rich flora and fauna. It has 10 islands under its jurisdiction but only 3 islands are populated because the other islands have no source of potable water. Batanes is on every traveler’s bucket list and, as our visit progressed, it did show us that it is definitely a league on its own.

Batan is the largest among the three inhabited islands of the province. It has four municipalities - Batan, Mahatao, Ivana, and Uyugan. The province’s main gateway, the Basco Airport, and its provincial capitol are both located in Batan.

Biking Around Basco

One of the best way to go around Basco that I highly recommend is by bike. There are bike rental shops in Batanes where you can rent bicycles and motorcycles. Bike rentals are at Php25 per hour for the Japanese bikes and Php50 per hour for the Mountain bikes. Our group rented out the Japanese bikes because it would look good on photos. Here’s a tip - make sure though that you are ready and fit to huff and puff on the bike.

Basco Lighthouse and Naidi Hills

One of the things that Batanes is known for are its dramatic lighthouses and the Basco Lighthouse sets the mood as soon as you lay your eyes on it. I highly recommend that you make this as your first stop in Batanes.

Completed in 2003, the Basco Lighthouse is the most accessible lighthouse in the province. You can actually walk to the lighthouse from the town center and it will only take you 15 mins. Its current location was once the site of a telegraph facilty that was destroyed by the Japanese forces during World War 2.

The 6-story lighthouse offers an amazing 360-degree view of Batan Island. The rolling hills of Naidi and its rocky shores will give you a taste of the views that you will get to enjoy when you tour the province. You will
get to see Mount Iraya looming above Basco on one side and the view of the sea on the other. On a good day, you will even get to see the islands of Sabtang and Itbayat.

For those who have watched the movie “Sakaling Hindi Makarating”, you will be surprised that the house where the postcards originated sits adjacent to the lighthouse. The caretaker said that the house is actually a cafe but is currently undergoing restoration after it was damaged by a typhoon.

Basco Cathedral

As you head back to town, you will come across the Basco Cathedral, also known as the Santo Domingo Church - in honor of the patron saint of Basco. However, the cathedral is actually dedicated to the Immaculate Concepcion. The foundation of the stone church was laid in 1795 and it has undergone a lot of renovations due to natural calamities, the latest was in 2000 after the facade of the church was damaged by an earthquake.

The cathedral’s simple facade mirrors the simple living of the Ivatans. The belfry of the church is unique as two bells sits on top of the facade. The current belfry was reconstructed after it was damaged by the 2000
earthquake.

The interior is as simple as that of its exterior. The altar is the main highlight of the church with its two-tierred retablo. The image of the Crucified Christ is at the center of the retablo with the images of the Immaculate Conception and Santo Domingo displayed adjacent to it.

Basco Provincial Capitol and Basco Plaza

At the heart of Basco is the Basco Provincial Capitol. This is the local seat of the government since the Spanish period. A historical marker recognizing the heroic action of Kenan Aman Dangat against Spanish oppression can also be found within its grounds. The capitol is a great evening stop, at the time of our visit, for its Christmas light decorations and Christmas mood music.

Right in front of the Capitol Grounds is the sprawling Basco Plaza. It is an open space park that is frequented by locals especially in the afternoon. Adjacent to the park is the track and field grounds where locals hold their sporting events against the backdrop of the Basco Lighthouse.

The North Remembers

Visitors of Batanes will not have a hard time going around its tourist spots. The province has a very effective and efficient tourism sector that standardized the rates of a three-day tour of North Batan, South Batan, and Sabtang Island, inclusive of lunch, depending on the headcount. I highly recommend that you avail of these tour packages if it is your first time to visit Batanes.

Mount Carmel Chapel

The Mount Carmel Chapel, also known as Tukon Chapel, stands atop a hill surrounded by green rolling hills. The design of the church is based on the traditional Ivatan stone houses. Its design and its location make it a picture-perfect spot for visitors of the province. I initially thought that it is one of the old heritage structures but it is not. It was opened to the public in 2008.

The church was going through restoration at the time of our visit. Apart from the facade, the church’s interior is a showcase of the Ivatan creativity. The ceilings carry the paintings of the patron saints of Batanes’ different municipalities.

PAG-ASA Weather Station

A few meters away from the Tukon Church is the PAG-ASA Weather Station or Tukon Weather Station. The station monitors the weather in Batanes since the province is located along the typhoon belt. Its concrete structure was damaged during the 2016 typhoon. The actual dome was blown off and has not been restored at the time that we visited. This gave us a clear picture of how strong and damaging the typhoons that hit the province.

The weather station once served as the weather station for the Americans. A lighthouse once stood in the same location as the station.

Fundacion Pacita
 
At the heart of Ivatan’s creativity is the Fundacion Pacita – a small countryside boutique hotel that sits along the dramatic green slopes of North Batan. The lodge once served as an art studio for world renowned Pacita Abad, a local of Batanes. It is now a quaint hotel that gives you a peek at Ivatan artistry set against the dramatic landscape of Batanes.

The lodge is open to the public but there are certain areas that are reserved only for its guests. Guests of Fundacion Pacita can enjoy having their artistic shots against its Ivatan-inspired lodge house and its manicured lawns. You can sit down by the lawn and just enjoy the beauty of the green pastures that surround it.

Guests can also enjoy coffee and light snacks at the lodge’s café before heading to the next destination.

Idiang Ivatan Fortress
 
As we trudged along our tour, we passed by the Idiang Ivatan Fortress - a huge rock that served as a refuge of the early Ivatans against their enemies. Kuya Joaquin shared with us that their ancestors would climb to the top of the natural fortress during the attack and then throw rocks against their enemies.

Access to the fortress is limited which is good because it actually protects the historical site. But it would be good to actually have a viewing platform for guests to fully appreciate the historical value of the place.

Japanese Tunnel
 
Nestled along one of the slopes overlooking Mount Iraya and Basco is a man-made structure that the Japanese built during World War 2. The tunnel has a series of chambers and a bunker served as a defensive look-out post by the Japanese invaders. Interestingly, Batanes was one of the first provinces to fall under the Japanese rule during the start of the World War.

It is a strategic location as it offers a commanding view of Basco. Guests could enter the tunnels that was built by the Ivatans to serve as a shelter of the Japanese.
 
Valugan Boulder Beach
 
Also known as Chanpan, the Valugan Boulder Beach was a by-product of an eruption of Mount Iraya. The stones and boulders spewed out by the volcano was smoothened by the rough waters of the West Philippine Sea through time. The result of which is an amazing seascape of boulders with the strong waves crashing onto these rocks. The stretch of the beach is just boulders so extra care is needed in navigating through these rocks.

The beach is also a sacred fishing port where the “Paypatawen”, the traditional fishing season of the Ivasay, are practiced during the months of March to May.
 
Vayang Rolling Hills
 
Batanes is a land where rolling green meadows are in abundance and the Vayang Rolling Hills was our first taste of these majestic views. This is where land meets the sea along the west side of Batan Island. The views are simply intoxicating and the peaceful mood the views evoked was too much to take in. I just felt like just sitting down and indulge with nature’s beauty.

Too bad though that the weather was not cooperating when we got there. They say that on a good day, it is a spot, close to Basco, where you get to see all three islands of Batan, Sabtang, and Itbayat in one sweeping view. It was a privilege that Batanes did not afford us at the time of our visit.
 
Post Travel Notes
 
I had mixed feeling after our North Batan tour. I was waiting to be swept off my feet and, honestly, I did not get that “wow” feeling during the tour. I know that it was still our first day but I was expecting to head back to our lodge, feeling elated by what I have seen but the feeling was a deep longing for better views. Funny that my travel buddies felt the same way.

Do not get me wrong. North Batan is beautiful but I was waiting for that one perfect view that will make me stop on my tracks and just enjoy the view. North Batan was beautiful but I felt that it was not enough to “wow” me. I had expectations and I wanted something more.

Will Sabtang Island give me that much needed traveler jolt? Find out on the second part of my Batanes blog.

A new year is once again upon us and, as always, I have already listed the goals that I want to achieve this 2018. i leveled up on my goals this year by identifying small steps that I need to do regularly to help me achieve these goals. I am also taking more initiatives now on identifying the actions that I need to take in line with achieving my goals for the year. As always, part of my goals are my travel plans for this year which I am sharing later on this blog.
 
But before anything else, let me share with you how I fared with my 2017 travel goals and my top three Philippine destinations from my 2017 travels.

2017 was a year of weekender trips for me. I was able to visit 19 local destinations in 15 provinces and roamed around 2 districts of Manila. I conquered 3 goal destinations from the initial 7 that I laid out at the start of 2017. I have to admit that I got waylaid from my travel goals last year considering that three of my unachieved travel goals are just a bus away from Manila. The wrap-up of my "Explore Manila!" project did not take off, as well.
 
But I feel that I have traveled fairly well during the first and second quarters of 2017. Most of the destinations that I travelled to were the off-beat destinations and it gave me a fresh perspective on local destinations. It also made trips more exciting and unpredictable.
 
My top 3 Philippine destinations for 2017 fall under the off-beat spots. The rawness and the unpredictability made the whole experience memorable. These were the trips that may have tipped me over but I do not regret taking.
 
1. Balabac, Palawan
 
Balabac, Palawan tops my list in 2017. The southern part of this region is one destination that holds a lot of natural attractions that can easily rival the more popular ones. This is where you will find the finest sand in the country, natural infinity pools, and countless white sand bars that you can explore and enjoy. The place defines the true meaning of a beach paradise. The travel may be daunting with a 6-hour land trip from Puerto Princesa and another 2 hours over the Sulu Sea but the rewards are endless. This is a destination that I can definitely say... walang patapon. Check out my blog entries on the following links:

2. Abra

The province of Abra is slowly rising above the common misconception that it is a no man’s land into a tourism gem up north. Although our group had a face-to-face encounter with some “nice people around”, Abra and its tourists spots are safe to visit as long as you coordinate with the local DPWH office in Bangued. Be prepared though for the rough ride to its scenic tourist destinations because it can get really tough. But once you catch a glimpse of its natural wonder, you know that it was worth all the muscle aches. Read more about our rough riding in Abra here.

3. Romblon

Another off-beat destination completes my top 3 travels for 2017. My Romblon trip wasn’t exactly what I signed up for but the rawness of the place compensated for the deviations during the trip. It was a good feeling to walk around town to see and feel how locals go about their day. Romblon’s attraction is strewn out on a wide area that advance planning is needed to be able to maximize the experience. I especially liked the “back-to-the-basic” feel of Cresta de Gallo. Our camp out can be likened to a survivor kind of experience. You can read about the twist and turns of my Romblon trip here.

On a side note, discovering Seoul was exciting for both me and Asher. It was interesting to discover the similarities and contrasts in Philippine and South Korean cultures. It was also an eye opener on how we can make a better Philippines by focusing on building a nation that values its identity. You can read more about our South Korea trip here.

2017 was marked by a lot of road trips to off beat destinations which had me focused on Luzon. 2018 is continuing my quest to explore regions in the country which I have not set foot yet - one in Luzon, one in Visayas, and one in Mindanao. I plan to maximize airline promo fares by focusing on Mindanao destinations. I recently figured out that a lot of my still to be explored destinations are in the Mindanao area so in the next two years, my focus will be on the Mindanao cities when airlines offer promo fares.
 
What are my goal destinations this year?

1. Batanes (Luzon)

Batanes is Batanes and it is probably on everyone’s travel bucket list. I have visited some destinations that boasts similar features to it but nothing beats the original. A good friend of ours was able to score good airline tickets for Batanes last year so this would jumpstart my 2018 travels. (Writer notes: I have already returned from Batanes as of this posting and will be sharing my experience soon)

2. Antique (Visayas)

I guess its time for me to complete the Panay Island loop by closing in on Antique. It is starting to attract local travelers and the sights and the experience are interesting. It still remains to be an off beat destination with its unique experience that other destinations are trying to immitate.

3. Pagadian (Mindanao)

While others are probaby heading out to the more popular destinations, I am opting to go for destinations that is below the radar. This will allow me to have a better feel of what the place has to offer and I think that Pagadian is that type. Its tourism plate may not be as diverse as other cities in Mindanao but I think it can charm travelers with its own cut. If you are from the place, holler up and help me plan up an itinerary.

4. Catanduanes

I enjoyed joining organized tours last year. Out of the four organized tours that I joined last year, three came out outstanding. I loved the friendship that I came across on these trips. This year I plan to join an organized tour to Catanduanes. The Bicol Region is one area that I also need to explore and I want to start off with this province. It would be great to explore the island where the winds howl.

5. Pahiyas Festival

Year after year, I make it a point to join the revelries of a Philippine Festival. I want to enjoy the colorful kipings of the Pahiyas Festival in May.

6. Vietnam

I am also planning to explore a new ASEAN destination this year. I find Vietnam interesting for its culture and history so I am targeting to fly and discover what Vietnam has to offer.

7. One Random Trip

This year I am planning to take a random trip to a new destination. The plan is not to have a plan. The goal is to start off in a transport terminal and head off to where the next flight or trip is. Now for those who know me, I am a stickler for having an initial travel plan and then working around it. It would be exciting how I can pull this off with the spontaneous nature of the trip.

2018 is going to be another exciting year of discovering the Philippines. If ever I get the opportunity to meet some of you during one of my trips, I would welcome that opportunity. Just buzz me so we can meet or probably join you in one of your travels. You can get updates on my travels or where I am through my Instagram account: marc7del and through my FB page: marc7travels.

It is my hope that by sharing my travel experiences with you, I will be able to encourage you to take that extra step of exploring and appreciating the beauty of the Philippines.

Tara na!