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The first time that I visited this town was during a Sinulog side trip in 2018. We wanted to conquer the highest peak in Cebu and we did with ease. 5 years after that experience, I found myself back at the top but only this time I had more time to explore the town. Dalaguete (pronounced as Dalaget) did get me the second time around.  I am exploring Dalaguete in more detail this time! Just 3 hours away by bus from Cebu City, Dalaguete is a laidback town that rolls from the mountains to the sea, with a pinch of history to share. The name Dalaguete (with a silent e in the end) was derived from the word “dalakit”, a huge tree that locals believed to be inhabited by entities and diwatas. The tree served as a common area for locals where they can gather under its shade, do trade, community activities, or celebrate festivities. The place was known as dalakit for a long time before it evolved into its present name of Dalaguete. It is believed that the location of the Spanish-period Dalaguete Church was once a community gathering place with a dalakit tree as its landmark. Osmena Peak Let us explore Dalaguete starting from the highest point. Standing at 1013 MASL, Osmena Peak stands as the highest point of the whole island of Cebu. The peak stands along the boundaries of Dalaguete and Badian but access to the peak is on the side of the former. This is why Osmena Peak is closely associated with the tourism of the eastern municipality more than the western side.  Enjoying the view from the roof of Cebu. You can climb to Osmena Peak with ease as the drop off point can easily be reached by vehicles and motorbikes. In our case, we hired a habal-habal from the town and it took us about 30 to 40 minutes to get to the jump-off of the peak. It was a cold early morning ride along the dark paved road because the plan was to capture the sunrise at the peak. From the registration area, one would need to take another 15 to 20 minutes hike to the Cebu’s “roof deck”. Please make sure that you bring with you a flashlight or headlamp if you plan to hike during the early morning or in the evening.
The early morning light was starting to appear on the horizon when we got to the top. Since we were the first to get there, we had the whole area for ourselves and it was easy to find our sweet spot. I took the highest point, of course. Unfortunately, we were not lucky to catch the sunrise because clouds rolled in from the north that covered our view of the sunrise. But this did not dampen our spirits because we were treated with amazing views of the rolling hills of Dalaguete on one side and the overlooking views of the eastern coastal side of Southern Cebu.
Osmena Peak is great spot to watch both the sunrise and the sunset but you really need to time your visit around the summer time to get enjoy it. The views of the coastal areas of Badian could easily relax you especially when it is matched by the cool breeze blowing. For a guy like me who loves views, the peak of Osmena was a perfect start for my day. As we walked back down the trail, we were treated with the views of the mountain farmlands of Dalaguete as locals start their day tending their vegetable plots and harvesting their crops to be brought down to the markets of Cebu. Osmena Peak does not only treat you with amazing landscape views but also gives you a peek of the local’s daily lives. Lugsangan Peak Just a short habal-habal ride away from Osmena Peak is another peak that offers a different kind of view of Dalaguete - Lunsangan Peak. Standing at 1003 MASL, the peak is also known as Casino Peak as reference to the owners of the land where it is located. It is often dubbed as the Chocolate Mountains of South Cebu because of its view that is similar to that of the famous Chocolate Hills of Bohol.  I would call these hills the "Toblerone Hills" of Dalaguete. The trek to the top of Lugsangan Peak is more challenging compared to that of Osmena Peak. The trail is shorter but really steep, with a portion of the climb angling close to 90 degrees. The trail gives you amazing views of the surrounding vegetable plantations, the coastal areas of Badian, and the mountains south of Cebu. The last stretch of the trail gets more exciting as you clamber over sharp rocks. If you are afraid of heights, this can be quite a challenge with its dizzying heights.
The Lunsangan Peak offers an amazing panoramic view of the hills of Dalaguete that reminds you of Bohol’s Chocolate Hills. The hills are not coned-shaped perfectly and it is more shaped like a tobleron with its pointed peaks. But it does give visitors the same vibe. The 360-degree view of the mountains and the coastal towns are amazing. You get a more closer look at their own chocolate hills. It is a perfect backdrop for your pictures especially with the Philippine flag waving with the wind as your foreground. Obong Spring Pool and Baluarte Ruins Moving downhill, the Obong Spring and Baluarte is an attraction that is mostly known among locals than tourists. These two attractions stand side by side along the coastal area located south of the town proper. Obong boasts of a natural attraction and a touch of Philippine history.
Obong Spring Pool is a hidden attraction of Dalaguete. The huge pool sits along the coast of Obong and its water drains into the sea through a mangrove area. It is one of the spots where you can still see a huge dalakit tree that is believed to be centuries old. The spring water source is close to the tree and is enough to keep the spring pool at a good depth for swimming. A spot is deep enough to cliff jump.
The spot was already developed by the LGU with the construction of picnic huts along the banks of the natural pool. Judging from our visit, the Obong Spring Pool is a popular leisure spot to cool down by locals on weekends and hot days. The water is really cold and refreshing when you go for a dip. The water is clean and clear. You can even see schools of small fish along the base of the dalakit tree. It was a refreshing dip after our trek to the peaks of Osmena and Lugsangan.
Tucked alongside the mangrove area of Obong is a small fortress ruins that was part of a Spanish-period communication system to protect the coastal towns of Southern Cebu from Moro Pirates. The Obong Baluarte is one of the series of baluartes built along the coast of Southern Cebu during the time of Fray Julian Bermejo Horabuena. These baluartes would send out smoke signals to warn neighboring towns of the presence of Moro Pirates. This system of war communication prepared the town for battle even before the pirates could land on their shores. The system stretches for 96 kilometers from the town of Carcar down to Santander.  The Obong Baluarte Ruins is one of the Spanish-period watchtowers that line the coast line of Southern Cebu. While most of these baluartes are now in ruins and disarray, the Obong Baluarte is one that stands almost intact. The LGU has taken efforts to secure the area develop it as an attraction with minimal changes on the original structure. The baluarte is a beauty to see with the mangroves in its background. I just hope that the LGU can also invest on improving the area as a tourist attraction while protecting the original structure. Dalaguete Roman Catholic Cemetery Dalaguete is an old Cebu town, pre-dating the arrival of the Spaniards in the country. So it is not a surprise that the town has its own collection of Spanish-period structures. The Dalaguete Roman Catholic Cemetery, along the National Highway, traces its roots from a Spanish-period cemetery and still has preserved remnants from centuries past. There are two heritage structures that still stand in the cemetery - the Cemetery Arch and the facade of its old Simborio.  A new chapel was built with the facade of the old Simborio as its altar.
The Cemetery Arch has withstood the test of time. It probably has seen countless tears of grief and shared smiles from memories of those who have departed for centuries. The arch was probably made from coral stones and adobe. What makes its distinct are the stone carvings and the latin inscriptions on the arch. The arch has latin inscriptions - “paternoster” or “The Lord’s Prayer” and “requiescat in pace” which translates to “rest in peace”. A skeleton carving can also be seen under these latin phrases. A few steps away from the arch is a newly built chapel where the facade of the Spanish-period simborio was converted into the altar. The heritage structure is also made of coral stones and it was great to see that the new chapel was built around the preservation of these structures. Casa Real de Dalaguete The Casa Real de Dalaguete is another remarkable well-preserved Spanish-period structure. Built around 1832, the Casa Real served as the seat of governance from the time of its inception to the present. The original structure was believed to be L-shaped with its walls built from coral stones and clay tiles roofing. The walls remain to be from its original state with the canopy at the front being added on at a later time.  The Casa Real de Dalaguete sits along the national highway in Dalaguete.
The structure has seen the glory days of Dalaguete and the horrors of war. It was attacked and occupied by rebels during the 1898 Philippine Revolution where the rebels burned important documents. But the victory was short-lived after the capture and the execution of the rebels. The Casa Real also served as the headquarters of the Japanese Constabulary during World War 2. Captured guerrillas from Dalaguete and neighboring towns of Alcoy and Boljoon were imprisoned at a cell located at the back of the Casa Real.  The Casa Real follows a bahay-na-bato design, complete with a grand staircase at the lobby. The Casa Real de Dalaguete remains to be the seat of governance to this day. The local government was able to preserve the structure while keeping it in use. I was lucky enough to be allowed entry into its hallowed halls, even on a Sunday, to be impressed by its interior. The design was patterned to a bah-na-bato design complete with a grand staircase at the lobby of the munisipyo. They also have an exhibit where one is walked through the history of Dalaguete through its collection of artifacts from different time priod. Simbahan ng San Guillermo de Aquitania At the heart of the town of Dalaguete stands a heritage structure that captures the Spanish-period influence to the town - the Simbahan ng San Guillermo de Aquitaina. The parokya was established in 1711 but the present church complex was built only in 1802 and was completed in 1860. The church is one of the church fortresses built during the Spanish-period that protected the coastline of Southern Cebu against Moro Pirates. It was part of the communication system built by Fray Julian Bermejo Horabuena that ran along the coast from Carcar to Santander.  The Simbahan ng San Guillermo de Aquitania in Dalaguete is one of the few standing fortress church in the country. The church was built from coral stones and follows earthquake baroque architecture. The facade of the church is three-tierred with stone carvings. A bas relief emblem of Castilla and Leon indicates that the church was built with royal funding. The second and third level has windows that probably served as lookout stations of locals from Moro attacks. The plain design of the church was more functional as the church served as a lookout post and refuge during pirate raids.
The church’s interior is one thing that will put every visitor in awe. The ornate three-tierred retablo will capture your attention with its intricate designs. It seems like it mirrors the facade of the church. The paintings in the ceilings by Canuto Avila will keep your eyes glued to the beauty of its ceilings. The tiled floors, the painted ceilings, and the altar complement each other giving the church a warm and homey feel. The intricate beauty of its interior completely contrasts the simple facade of the church.  The intricate interior of the church is a complete contrast to its simple facade. Walking around the church complex, one would also be amazed by the church convent and belfry. Both structures are also made from coral stones. A small mortuary chapel can also be located inside its complex. A Heritage Well and a monument honoring Ruperto Sarmiento is located just right in front of the kumbento. The Simbahan ng San Guillermo de Aquitania was recognized as National Historical Landmark in 2004. Its role in Philippine history cannot be undermined as part of a complex fort system along the southern coast of Cebu. It is one of the few well-preserved fortress churches in the country that clearly gives us a glimpse of how the Catholic church, not only spread Christianity, but also served as a refuge for locals both figuratively and literally. Dalaguete Baluarte and Boardwalk The Dalaguete Boardwalk is a huge sprawling park located right in front of the church. The park is a perfect way to enjoy the afternoon sun and breeze as it gives you a panoramic view of the Cebu Strait. It is complete with benches where you can relax while enjoying a snack or a drink while enjoying a nice cool afternoon. Locals usually flock in the area in tge early mornings or late afternoons to enjoy their walks or just enjoy the view.
At the heart of its boardwalk is the Dalaguete Baluarte. This octogonal watchtower is part of the defense fortress of Dalaguete and the a system of communication created by Fray Julian Bermejo Horabuena. It is the first line of defense of the town from Moro Pirates. An old Spanish cannon is on display to give guests an idea on the artillery used to defend the town from pirates. The baluarte was re-purposed as a small cafe of the park. POST TRAVEL NOTES Dalaguete is small town that kept its buzz for centuries. From the mountain tops to its waters downstream, it has a unique collection of attractions that will keep any kind of traveller up on their toes exploring and enjoying its nooks and crannies. Its history can be seen in all its corners that helps weave a story where we get to understand how the town of Dalaguete survived and thrived. There’s more than just Dalaguete’s peak. It is a place where you can enjoy a day or two where you get to share stories and adventures with friends and its locals.  Tag-init na! San na tayo lalarga? We are often times enamored by attractions that are commonly associated with a destination that we oversee the other attractions of the place. We are focused on conquering what the place is known for that we set aside other spots that complete the whole experience. Don’t be the usual tourist when visiting a destination. Explore beyond the usual and enjoy the total experience of the place. You can also watch my Youtube travel video on Dalaguete Cebu here: #ByahengOffTheGrid Dalaguete #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas #SamaSamangBabangonMuli Getting there: Major local and international airlines have direct flights to Cebu. You can take a cab to the South Bus Terminal where you can take a Ceres bus to Bato via Oslob. Tell the bus ticket teller that you will be going down the Poblacion of Dalaguete. You can then hire a habal-habal to explore the Dalaguete’s peak and a trike to explore the poblacion and its lowland attractions. For habal-habal arrangements, you can contact Kuya Nic Nic at 0936 1849442. There are a number of beachfront accommodations in Dalaguete. I highly recommend Nadelmar Hotel and Resort (https://www.facebook.com/nadelmarhotelandresort) located along the national highway.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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