marc7 travels |
Let me say it out loud... Babuyan Claro is not for the faint-hearted! We never thought that we would actually live out the line “See the line where the sky meets the sea”. That line that Moana spoke of was the same line that we looked at for almost two hours trying to catch any semblance of a landform as we traversed the choppy waters of the Luzon Strait. It did not help that it started to rain at the same time. For those who travel often, rains mixed with choppy waters are not a good combination when you are in the middle of the sea. Finally after 6 hours of sea travel on choppy waters, I was one of the last persons to board a makeshift raft that brought me to rocky shores of Babuyan Claro - the northernmost island of the Calayan Group of Islands. The journey to Calayan Group of Islands started three months before the day we stepped on the hallowed shores of Babuyan Claro. It started when Share-A-Smile Project made a call for volunteers for an outreach program on Cagayan’s northernmost municipality. My daughter and I heeded the call and together with 22 other volunteers took an 18-hour land and 6-hour sea travel to reach out and discover the communities of these amazing islands. Calayan Group of Islands is the northernmost municipality of Cagayan Valley. It is composed of four islands - Calayan, Babuyan Claro, Camiguin, and Dalupiri. The largest island is Calayan which also serves as the municipality’s center for governance and commerce. Although there are regular lampitaw trips between Calayan and Aparri or Claveria in mainland Luzon, travel to these islands are still limited due to weather and sea conditions. Babuyan Claro Babuyan Claro is the northernmost island of Calayan. It is the home of the Filipino indigenous group, Ibatan - a close relative of the Batanes’ Ivatan tribe. The island is a protected ancestral land whereby giving the domain under the care of the tribe’s elders. Its locals are very shy and, more often than not, are satisfied just watching their guests from a distance. Should the case be that you catch them intently observing you, they are quick to give you their brightest smile before scurrying away from the attention. But do not be decieved by their shyness because they have one of the biggest and the most hospitable hearts that I have experience in the Philippines. In contrast to the hospitality of the Ibatan, Babuyan Claro is probably the most unwelcoming island that I have encountered in the Philippines. It is not enough that it takes 6 hours of sea travel from Sta. Ana to Babuyan Claro. The waters that surround the island is also relentless in giving you a memorable “splash” that could either excite you or, more often than not, scare the sh*t out of you. And the weather can be quite a uncooperative as you approach the island. I mean rains and huge waves in the middle of the sea are not exactly the elements that you want to toy with. It is not surprising that the Council of Elder’s tourism brochure gives a fair warning to travelers about the difficulty of traveling to Babuyan Claro. On the side note, travelers need to first coordinate with the council if you intend to visit Babuyan Claro. You need to get their approval before starting the journey. Reaching Out to the Ibatan Community Babuyan Claro is the home of the meek and shy Filipinos. The community shares and enjoys a simple way of life that is centered on family and kinship. They live in peace, void of the usual city dwellers’ vice and habits. Electricity is limited. Smoking and drinking liquor is not allowed. Mobile phones are unnecessary as there are no mobile signal in the area. When you visit Babuyan Claro, you live with the community and you learn and realize how to live with the true basic essentials - food, shelter, clothing, and family. At the core of the community is the school that not only serves as a learning institution but as a focal point for community gathering. With its sprawling lawn, it definitely allows its young minds to play and explore. It also served as our venue for the outreach program where we reached out to the locals who have opened their arms to our group. In the midst of the fun and games, we were more than happy to give out school kits and slippers to elementary students of Babuyan Claro while solar lamps were given out to selected families. More than 200 school kits and 150 solar lamps from our donors were given out that day. But beyond the school kits, slippers, and lamps, the outreach opened a more pressing issue that the community elders wanted to address. They wanted help to go beyond school kit dole-outs. They are calling for help to have at least one of their own to continue higher education. They share the hope that at least one of these kids will be able to graduate from college with help from donors. Again, I would like to raise the same appeal on this blog for those who are willing to help make this a reality. You can check out my previous blog on this here. For those who are willing to help, you can contact me through this blog. I hope this call would not fall on deaf ears. Black Sand Beaches of Askedna The local council was very eager to give us a quick tour of Babuyan Claro. So right after the morning outreach activity, we all boarded a Colong-Colong, their own version of the tricycle but a lot more exciting, to enjoy an afternoon tour. Babuyan Claro is an island blessed with a rugged coastline. With two volcanos guarding the island, most of its rugged features are an effect of these volcanos’ activity and the black sand beaches of Askedna is not an exception. The first part of the journey is riding through the paved and dirt roads aboard a Colong-Colong. Riding this version of a tricycle is an adventure in itself that will pump you up with a hefty serving of adrenaline. Our ride zoomed through paved and rough roads that could rival amusement rides for the thrill that it gave us. We screamed in both delight and nervousness as we enjoyed the wind blowing on our faces. Then came the hour long hike through the lush greeneries and bucolic views of Babuyan Claro. The hike was easy and it was a thrill to find photogenic spots for an instant photoshoot with Asher. I definitely did not miss out on that. The beach comes into full view as we made way to the clearing. The black sand gave the beach a different but stronger personality. The beach seemed to evoke an aura of being tough with its dark sandy shores and rock formations on both side of the cove. The cool waters of the beach was a welcome relief and was enough to cool us down from the hike. Askedna Hot Spring If you are facing the sea from the beach, the rock formations on the right side is not hard to miss. Its ruggedness make it a good backdrop for amazing photos. But underneath these rocks is a hot water spring that seeps out to meet the waters of the sea. And when we say hot, it is really hot! The spring source is said to be the nearby Smith Volcano. Take extra precaution when exploring the area to avoid getting burned by its spring waters. Lighthouse Just above the Askedna Black Sand Beach and Hot Spring is a lighthouse under the care of the Philippine Coast Guard. It serves as a beacon for those traversing the Luzon Strait. Climbing through the dirt path from the beach, one can climb up the lighthouse to get an amazing panoramic view of the dark sandy shores of Askedna. Smith Volcano As we hiked back to the jump-off point, Smith Volcano was kind enough to give us a glimpse of its flat peak against the sunset. The volcano is one of the two volcanos within the island. It’s gently sloping sides are the first to greet you as you approach the island and you will be captivated by its beauty. Most of the time, its peak is covered by clouds giving guests an impression that it probably has a perfect cone tip. However, the peak of Smith Volcano looks like a plateau from afar but it certainly is a charmer. Too bad that we did not have enough time to explore the volcano. Local guides say that one can actually do a day hike to explore Smith Volcano. I guess it is something to look forward to on my next visit. Coconut Crab I finally got a hold of the elusive coconut crab from this region. It was my first time to actually see and touch the coconut crab. Earlier this year I was in Batanes and I was hoping to get a chance to have a face-to-face encounter with this popular crab. This kind of crab looks like a bluish giant spider. It migrates inland where it feeds on coconut. Interestingly, locals say that these coconut crabs are transported to Batanes from Babuyan Claro. Sidetrip: Sibang Cove, Calayan Island Calayan Island is the largest island of the municipality and serves as the center for governance and commerce. Its rustic appeal did not go unnoticed by local and foreign travelers that it is now starting to get traction in the tourism front. Four hours of sea travel on choppy waters, although a lot calmer, from Babuyan Claro, we found ourselves docking into the white sand shores of Sibang Cove. It is the face of the Calayan Island’s tourism. There is no doubt that beach lovers will fall in love with this cove. Sibang Cove is pristine and remains untouched by commercialism. There are no huts to shield you from the heat of the sun but one can lounge under the trees. Its white sand shoreline stands out in contrast to the towering rock face that protects the cove. In the middle of the cove is a towering rock formation that adds drama to the whole tropical beach scene. Take extra precaution when enjoying a cool dip on its crystal clear waters as the waves actually crash on to the cove’s shoreline. You can see Nagundungan Hills from afar. Unfortunately, we were not able to check out Nagundungan Hills because of the heat of the noon sun. I guess, Nagundungan Hills will be on my list on my next visit to Calayan Island. Post Travel Notes The Calayan Group of Islands is a Philippine destination that is slowly getting traction among travelers both here and abroad. The rugged and pristine beauty of its natural attractions is a treasure that is waiting to be discovered and explored. The relative isolation of these islands and the difficulty of getting there are just some of the challenges that one needs to face but the experience adds up to excitement and the memories. Again, it is a destination that only the brave dare go. IG: @thetravelingdada conquered another far-flung and off-beat destination this year and, just like last year’s destination, it showed us a different and difficult side of the Philippines. Despite the beauty of the place, the community shares a more pressing issues that most far-flung communities face – the lack of basic government support. The communities have already adjusted to the lack of support but, suffice to say, there is still a lot of work that can be done by the government in addressing the needs of the community, especially in healthcare and education. Was the trip worth taking? I would definitely give a resounding yes to that question. It is worth taking, not only for the amazing views, but to experience the warm hospitality and meekness of the Ibatans. It is also a great time to unlearn the urban quirks that we have acquired through the years and realize that we can live our lives in its simplest form. Getting there: Traveling to the Calayan Group of Islands is an experience in itself. One can take a 9-hour bus ride or a 1-hour plane ride to Tugegarao City and then take a van to Santa Ana where you can hire “lampitaws” to bring you to Babuyan Claro, Camiguin Norte, or Calayan Island. If you are planning to visit Babuyan Claro, you need to seek prior approval from the community’s Council of Elders. It is best to get in touch with our guide, Kuya Jefferson Umengan, at +639755 5225878 to assist you with the travel. Alternatively if you are planning to visit Calayan, you can also take a bus trip to either Claveria or Aparri and then take the public ferry to Calayan. You can also contact Kuya Jefferson because he also organizes trips to Calayan. Huge shout-out to Mirth Men for keeping me sanitized during the trip. You can check out there Facebook page here for their unique line of products. Let me also take this chance to thank the wonderful and generous staff of Anytime Fitness Quezon Avenue, Anytime Fitness West Fairview, and Anytime Fitness Binondo for their help in this project. Huge shout-out to the team behind the "Share-A-Smile Project" for organizing this worthwhile outreach trip. They are organizing another outreach trip this June 16-17 in Batad and they are currently looking for donors and volunteers. You can check out their Facebook page on how you can help.
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Wait... there is more! We have seen the views and we have experienced the great El Nido outdoors but there is one aspect of El Nido that you do not often read about - it is a haven of gastronomical treats! Before we move forward from my El Nido trip, let me share with you the food stops of the town. I get an impression that El Nido is popular among foreigners compared to local tourists. As they say, only the ones with a pack of patience dare go to El Nido because of the travel time that comes with the punch. You either spend out or take the long road to El Nido. So it is not a surprise that the place is teeming with food spots that lean towards its international market. One thing is for sure, El Nido will always have something to fill your tummy. Trattoria Altrov Pizza lovers... this is THE place for that great brick-oven pizza in El Nido. I guess the long waiting line in their main restaurant along Calle Halma is enough proof of how good their pizzas are. Good thing that they have an Altrove Express just a few meters from their main branch where you can enjoy freshly made pizza without the crowd. You also get to be treated with a look at how your pizza is made and baked. So after the dough aerial flips and preparations, I enjoyed two of their flavors in one pizza and I am telling you that it is REALLY good. Take it from a guy who is not a pizza fan. Angel Wish If you are still craving for fresh seafood even after you had your fill of your tour’s buffet lunch, head on to Angel Wish along Serena Street. The restaurant is located along the beachfront of El Nido Bay. This is where you can get a fill of your fresh seafood cravings whether you like grilled, sizzling, steamed, or whatever your cooking preference maybe. The fresh catch are laid out in front of the restaurant where you can order by the kilo and have it cooked the way you want it done. But if you just want the usual selections, you can order from their menu. Odessa Mama Looking for something different, get a fill of authentic Ukranian food at Odessa Mama. Odessa Mama is a popular food spot that can rival the few restaurants that offer Ukranian dishes in the country. No wonder this street cafe along Calle Hama is always full of guests. You can try out the Varenyky – a Ukranian version of stuffed dumplings. You can choose from a selection of seafood, fish, beef, pork, and vegetables topped with your choice of their homemade sauces. You can match it up with Cheburek. It is an empanada kind of dish that is stuffed with either pork, beef, and tuna. This is a must-try foodie stop when in El Nido. Happy Tumi If you are hungry for something Filipino, you can check out Happy Tumi along Rizal Street. Finding the place can be a bit tricky because the actual resto is inside a compound. The place is cozy for a nice meal because it is a few meters away from the main road. My choice meal was their twice-cooked adobo which I loved because of its tender and flavorful meat. It was a perfect choice for a Pinoy craving for a Pinoy meal. Maa’s Grill and Restaurant Another restaurant that serves good Filipino food is Maa’s Grill and Restaurant along Calle Hama. This is best place to satisfy your cravings for Pinoy grilled seafood or meat at a really affordable price. Don’t be deceived by its simple appearance because their Filipino dishes can satisfy. The best combination for me is grilled pork and “sinigang na isda” (fish tamarind broth) served with steaming hot rice. Belle Ile One thing that El Nido never gets tired of is crepes. There seems to be an unending supply of this snack around town. You are sure to find a crepe store on every street and on every turn. My fave crepe spot is Belle Ile on the corner of Rizal and Serena Street. There crepe is just the same as the others but what I like about the place is the ambiance. It is the perfect spot to lounge around after a full day of island hopping. You can just sit back, relax, and watch tourists weaving through this busy area of the town. Gusto Gelat If you still have room for dessert, head off to Gusto Gelato along the corner of Calle Hama and R. Magsaysay Street and get that sweet tooth treat with their home-made ice creams. The place is not hard to find as you will always find the crowd gathered in front of the place. They have a lot of ice cream flavors to choose from. My personal favorite is the Dark Chocolate flavor. If you opt to hang out, you can head up to its second floor where you can chill with friends or get a bird’s eye view of people walking along Calle Hama. Post Travel Notes El Nido is more than just a beach spot. It is also a place where you can try out authentic international dishes that sometimes you cannot even find in Manila. Its main food stops cater to its tourists which are mostly foreigners so expect it to be a bit pricey and a tad different from the usual Filipino food fare. You can expect to have a fill of Filipino dishes during the island tours and reserve your evenings in trying out international food selections that may catch your fancy, from sausages to gelato, El Nido definitely has it! The gastronomical delights of El Nido is an example of how a local community adapts to its tourism economy. We can see that El Nido first charmed international travelers, with some of them taking their residence there. This paved the way for the opening of businesses that cater to these foreign guests and their taste. In the end I can say that El Nido is not just a tropical paradise but it is also a gastronomical heaven for travelers alike. Getting there: The fastest way to get to Coron is via Air Swift who have direct flights from Manila, Clark, and Cebu. One can also opt to fly in through Puerto Princesa and then take a 5-hour land trip to Coron. The latter option is the cheaper alternative. There are a lot of accommodations in El Nido that cater to every kind of traveler. Nido Bay Inn is an affordable beachfront accommodation. You may reach them through +63927 5608535. You can also arrange your island tours with them without additional fees as the tours have standard rates. A Php200 environmental fee is charged at the hotel/resort. You need to bring the receipt with you always. Follow me on my social media accounts:
El Nido is an enchantress. Her charm will transport you to her as you look back to the memories created during your visit. With 45 islands, hundreds of secluded coves, lagoons, white sand shorelines, limestone rock formations, caves, and turquoise blue waters, it is hard not to fall in love with one of the hottest destination in the world. El Nido will impress you and will make you want for more. El Nido was originally known as Bacuit. Its present name was adopted in 1954, named after the Spanish word “nido” or nest with reference to the swiftlet’s nest used as an ingredient in a soup of the same name. Local story claim that the beauty of the municipality was accidentally discovered in 1979 by divers. The past decades have seen its growth in tourism with the entry of high end resorts in a number of private islands and the birth of tourism establishments around town. El Nido was declared a protected area in 1998 because of its diverse ecosystem. Going In Land But before we head out to explore the beaches in El Nido, this town has a bunch of interesting sites to explore even without boarding a boat. So I braved its streets and boarded a trike to explore two (or is it three?) its popular inland destinations. Taraw Cliffs Nestled at the heart of town, the Taraw Cliffs is a popular spot among tourists because its peak offers a panoramic view of the town and Bacuit Bay. The limestone formations towers over the town like a guardian. However, an accident in 2016 that almost caused the life of a local guide prompted local officials to close down the highest point of Taraw for safety reasons. But do not fret because there is a safer way to enjoy the view above the cliffs. It is not as high but the view remains amazing. The Canopy Walk is a safer alternative for those who want to experience the views above the cliffs. The experience will take to a walk through a mangrove area, climb through stone faces, cross a hanging bridge, and navigate through a steel staircase mounted on rock faces to a view deck high above town. Local guides lead the way and pause at certain points of the canopy to share information about El Nido and make you appreciate the view. The view deck offers an awesome bird’s eye view of the town. The guides know the spots where they can take your photos to capture the amazing view. Since I came in close to midday, the line of guests were not that much and we had more time to enjoy the view. The Canopy Walk experience will take you safely up and down the cliff within 45 minutes to an hour. The people behind it are the same people who helped establish the Masungi Reserve in Tanay. They are currently installing an extension of the canopy which will feature a huge dreamcatcher once finished. Ot is the safest way to enjoy the cliffs of Taraw. Nacpan - Calitang Twin Beach 45 mins away from the town proper by tricycle is one of the popular spots in El Nido. The Nacpan-Calitang Twin Beach is a beach strip that stands back-to-back on the northern part of El Nido. The two beaches converge on the eastern part of the strip. My first encounter with the twin beach was aboard my Airswift flight from Clark as we were on our final descent to El Nido Airport. I had a full bird’s eyeview of the twin beach from my window seat. The strip of white sand was enough to excite me to check it out. Calitang Beach is the smaller beach spot. The cove is where you will find local boats docked for safety and this is also the side where you will find most of the local residents’ homes. Nacpan Beach is the longer strip of white sand beach with a number of private establishment that dot its beachfront. It is the touristy side of the twin beach with cottages, huts, and bars that cater to its guests. It is also a great place to watch and enjoy the sunset. Unfortunately, the hill located on the east side where you can get the best view of the twin beach is off limits to tourists and guests. It was cordoned off by a private developer/owner pending a court case resolution. Tour C - When The Sea Beckons Did you know that El Nido has about 50 white sand beaches to explore? We covered a couple of these beaches on my first serving and this time we are going to beach around El Nido. Tour C is referred to as the “Beach Tour” mainly because the destinations featured in this tour are the pristine beach spots of El Nido, both the hidden and the unhidden. Although there are some beach strips that you would have to admire from afar as it is privately-owned, there are tens of others that you can enjoy and relax on while under the sun. Helicopter Island Helicopter Island is one island that you will get to see and admire from afar when you get on the other tours. It is one of the islands located at the mouth of Bacuit Bay and serves as one of the “guardians” of the town. Its shape is said to be similar to a helicopter without the blades and it is because of that shape that it earned the name “Helicopter Island”. Also known as Dilumacad Island, the island is also characterized by towering limestone rock formations, lush greeneries, and a white sand beach strip where the tours make their stop. Its underwater scene also bursts out with life and different colors that you can also try snorkeling in the area. I found myself setting up under one of the shade of the trees while immersing myself with the beach view. Again, the holiday crowd was still there. There is a small WWF kiosk where you can read about the diverse marine life found in the area. This was the third day that I was exploring El Nido that I opted to just chill out under the shade and enjoy the view. You can explore further down the beach but the shorelines on that end are rockier. It is the best place to get a panoramic view of the island and the other islands surrounding it. It is also a better option to chill down because the crowd is thinner in the area. Hidden Beach A huge limestone boulder hides the view of the beach from the sea. In fact, it looks like a plain limestone jutting out from the waters and, if not for the presence of boats in the area, you wouldn’t think that some good spot is out there. This is Hidden Beach - a spot that is hidden no more. Our boat docked a few meters away from the entrance of Hidden Beach. From that point, one would have to navigate through waves and swim towards the entrance of the beach. You then have to wade through knee high waters through its “canyons” before you can unhide the beauty of Hidden Beach. Hidden Beach is a huge white sand cove protected by limestones from the sea. The water is not too deep that both the young and old can enjoy its cool waters. From its shoreline, you can actually sea another entry point that opens directly to the sea on its left side. When the sun is getting too hot, you can find shelter under the shade of trees in the area. You can also explore the inner right part of the cove where you will find a smaller cove within the confines of limestone rocks. Saltwater gushes in with the waves. This is the third entry point of Hidden Beach although it is a lot trickier to navigate because you have to go through the crevices of its limestones to get in and out. I reckon that Hidden Beach is a great place to slow down and commune with nature, if you have the place for yourself. I can imagine the peace it offers with its cool waters and the sound of the wind and sea without the holiday crowd. Matinloc Island / Matinloc Shrine An island with a veil of mystery that started in 1982 when a group built a retreat place and shrine on the island. The place was later abandoned leaving a trail of stories that border from mysterious to creepy in reference to its history. The shrine is now privately-owned and an entrance fee is collected before you can explore the shrine premises. The still waters between Matinloc Island and Tapiutan Island is a stopover during the tour for lunch, snorkeling, and a quick swim. You can view the shrine and what remains of the retreat house as you pass through its docking area. Secret Beach Not far from the shrine is another secret that is no longer a secret to me - the Secret Beach. The beach got its name because of its location. One needs to swim from the docking area of the boat towards a small opening along the limestones that surround the cove. With proper timing, one hauls himself or herself into the opening with the help of the wave to get inside the Secret Beach. Just like the other beaches in El Nido, the Secret Beach is characterized by its white sand shores surrounded by towering limestones. Its stark difference is the challenge on how to get to the beach and the combination of rocky and sandy seafloor. The sandy shoreline have pocket areas where you can sit down to just chill out. The space is limited though and, when you have the holiday crowd, a peaceful spot away from the crowd is hard to find. Talisay Beach With the holiday crowd in El Nido at the time of our visit, Talisay Beach was a breather. It was the only beach spot during our tour that did not have the holiday crowd. In fact, our group was the only one on the beach so we got to enjoy our own piece in El Nido. As our boat docked close by the shore, we all found our own piece of paradise in Talisay Beach. I settled down under the shadows of its towering limestone cliffs where I enjoyed the tropical view of the beach cove. It was a great way to enjoy the serene beach atmosphere of Talisay with its white sand and tropical vibe. I also took time to enjoy the clear waters of the beach that was teeming with marine life. It was fun capturing images of its rich and colorful underwater scene. I took my time enjoying swimming with the schools of fishes in the area. I felt that I was in my element. Talisay Beach was a great way to end my El Nido trip. Taking a peaceful break from the holiday crowd in my own piece of tropical paradise. Post Travel Notes El Nido is a beauty. It is one of those Philippine destinations that is popular among foreigners and has slowly gained traction among local travelers. Its traction on tourism cannot be questioned because of the innate beauty of its islands. It has a lot to offer for those who want that tropical vibe. However, its strong presence in the tourism front poses a threat to its lucrative trade. The developments happening in town to accommodate the demands is a danger to its economy. With what is happening to Boracay, I feel that El Nido might be bordering towards the same fate unless the local government take action to address its issues like the structure along the shores of the town. It is an issue that most Philippine destinations are facing that I hope is properly addressed before it’s too late. Getting there: The fastest way to get to Coron is via Air Swift who have direct flights from Manila, Clark, and Cebu. One can also opt to fly in through Puerto Princesa and then take a 5-hour land trip to Coron. The latter option is the cheaper alternative. There are a lot of accommodations in El Nido that cater to every kind of traveler. Nido Bay Inn is an affordable beachfront accommodation. You may reach them through +63927 5608535. You can also arrange your island tours with them without additional fees as the tours have standard rates. A Php200 environmental fee is charged at the hotel/resort. You need to bring the receipt with you always. Tour C is at Php1400. All tours come with a grilled buffet lunch. |
Marc del Rosario
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August 2024
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