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The town’s church is the first thing that comes to mind when you mention the name of this Iloilo town. You really cannot help it since the UNESCO Heritage Church is a tourism icon of the town and the province. The usual Iloilo itinerary is not complete without swinging by the town to visit this Spanish-period structure. But here’s the thing… there’s more to see in this town, if you don’t rush, that would make you go… let’s Miagao! Located just 2 hours away from the city, it is believed that the name “Miag-ao” was derived from the flowering plant “Miagos” that once grew abundantly in the area. This town was initially a suburb of Oton (until 1580), Tigbauan (1580-1652), San Joaquin (1652-1703), and Guimbal (1703-1716). It was in 1731 that it gained its status as an independent town. Today, Miagao is a very popular tourism and pilgrimage town in the province of Iloilo and, beyond its majestic church, are natural attractions and stories that are often overlooked. Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Parish Church (Simbahan ng Miagao) At the heart of the town, the Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Parish Church, or the Miagao Church, is the most popular tourist and pilgrimage attraction in Miagao. It was in 1731 that the parish was established by Augustinian friars and the first church was built in Ubos. A second church was built inland in 1787 after two Moro invasions. The present church is the third structure built after it was damaged during the 1898 Philippine Revolution. The church is one of the four Spanish-period Baroque Churches in the Philippines that was declared as UNESCO World Heritage Site. The church was built under baroque-romanesque architecture with thick walls and buttresses. Its massive walls served as a fortress against moro attacks. The church was built in lime, adobe, coral, and egg giving its unique orange hue. Its orange glow is best seen during sunrise. The facade of the church depicts the tropical everyday life in Miagao with touches of biblical references. The two unequal watchtower belfries stand guard on each side of the facade. The church is popular for its intricate bas-relief that has a mix of Spanish, Chinese, and Muslim influences. The coconut tree is a depiction to the Tree of Life. St. Christopher who holds the coconut tree, with the Child Jesus, on his back is adorned in native clothing. The facade also has niches with carved images of St. Thomas of Villanueva (located on the niche above the door), St. Henry of Bavaria, and Pope Pius VI. The single nave church interior is beautiful with its simplicity. It directs your attention towards its gold-plated altar, with the image of the Crucified Christ as its centerpiece. The massive walls give its visitors the feeling of comfort and security within its walls. The baptistry is located under on of its belfries. Parts of its walls were part of the original structure. Interestingly, locals marvel at some of the images imprinted on its walls through time. These images were believed to be a blessing for their faith. Miagao Municipal Hall and Plaza Standing beside the church, the Miagao Municipal Plaza serves as the center of the town’s community activities. It is complete with a sports facility, a multi-purpose hall, and a sprawling open park. The open park was a good spot to just enjoy a lazy day watching the town go by during early morning or late afternoons. Across the plaza stands the new Miagao Municipal Hall. It serves as the center of governance of the municipality where local government offices are located. A fountain stands at the entrance with a bas relief showcasing the products and livelihoods that the town is known for. Two Spanish-period cannons, a historic artifact from its colorful past, are also on display adjacent to the fountain. Tigmalaguit Peak After registering at the tourism office at Miagao, we met with our guides - Kuya Jobert, Kuya Rodel, and Kuya Dionisio of OMPZ Adventures for our quick and easy morning hike to explore the mountains of Miagao. The organizer is one of the groups recognized by the LGU to provide tours and hikes on the mountains of Miagao. In no time, we were already zooming along the Barangay roads of the town heading towards our first destination - Tigmalaguit Peak. Tucked along the hinterlands of Miagao, Tigmalaguit Peak is one of the easy hiking destinations in Iloilo. We just parked the habal-habal on the side of the concrete road in Toog and took a 20-minute hike to the peak. We were treated to amazing views of the mountains guarding Miag-ao and it also gave us a sneak peek to the reason why we went here - to view the mountain terraces of Miagao. The hike was relatively easy with a steep ascent on the last stretch to the peak. Tigmalaguit Peak offers a panoramic view of the mountains and the plains of Miagao. More importantly, it was one of spots that offer an amazing view of the terraces carved along the sides of its mountains of Iloilo. These terraces were carved, using minimal equipments, with mud walls that allow water to settle in from its irrigation system. It was a real beauty hidden along the mountainsides of Miagao. Little Batanes (Buklod) A short ride away from Tigmalaguit Peak is a spot that locals refer to as Little Batanes. I am often intrigued when I encounter local spots that is named after a popular Philippine destination because, more often than not, the beauty of the place can stand on its own. There is no need for the comparison. After a quick snack break at the base of the peak, I headed up to the trail of Little Batanes. A small welcome arch stands at the jump-off point of the spot. I was able to reach its view deck in less than 5 minutes. The deck offered a panoramic view of its rolling hills, one of the terraces of Miagao, and the winding concrete roads of the area. It was a calm and relaxing view to enjoy. I guess you are wondering where Batanes comes into play. Well, it took a while for me to figure it out and the perimeter fence in the area gave it a similar vibe to that of Vayang Rolling Hills. From a personal standpoint, I think Buklod can stand in its own beauty and there is no need for the comparison. Dilaan Falls Dilaan Falls is one of the most accessible waterfalls attraction in Miagao. The hike to the waterfalls is about an hour from the jump-off point. The trail will keep you amused with the its lush greens and mountain views. It is relatively an easy hike through and through with rest stops along the way. One of the rest stops has an amazing view of a limestone rock formation jutting out from its green landscape. Expect to get your feet wet along the way. Dilaan Falls is a two-tier waterfall hidden along the mountains of this town. It got its name for its tongue-shaped rock ledge along the cascades of the waterfalls. Its water cascades down into a base water pool and runs downstream along its rocky riverbed. You can also take a refreshing cold dip in its base pool to cool you down after the hour hike to catch its beauty. This attraction is a refreshing break from the usual Miagao itinerary. The cold water, the fresh air, and the amazing views of its forest covers grounds you with nature. It was an amazing way to recharge with nature. It was both relaxing and refreshing to explore the hidden natural wonders of Miagao. Miagao Bat Trees Back in the Miagao Town Plaza, you would notice a swarm of dark figures fluttering around the branches of a barren tree. You would think that these are birds but they are actually fruit bats. The Bat Trees of Miagao is another natural phenomenon in the town where fruit bats has found a home in some of the trees near the plaza. Where these bats came from and how they thrived in Miagao remains to be a mystery. Interestingly, locals and bats have co-existed for more than 7 decades. It was not hard to miss these trees because the sound and the sight of these nocturnal creatures will catch your attention. Local folklore share that these trees are home to underworld creatures. It made me so curious that I tried to get near their dwelling trees. The noise and the smell of guano was overwhelming that I only stayed at a distance to admire these nocturnal creatures. Baybay Norte Kuta Miagao is a coastal town and, just like other old Spanish towns, it has its own collection of Spanish-period watchtowers. These baluartes were built as part of a defense system against Moro pirates. I have read that there is a watchtower ruins on the outskirts of the town but little did I know that there is also a baluarte within the poblacion. From the town plaza, I walked along Octaviano Street where you will find the Baybay Norte Kuta at the end of this street. Built in 1760, the Spanish-period Kota was built as a watchtower and a fortress that guard the town from Muslim raiders. It was the baluarte that protected the poblacion. It was in 1994 that the Baybay Norte Kuta was renovated and re-purposed as the multi-purpose hall of Baybay Norte. The stone foundations remain standing to these day with the barangay hall built on top of the fortress. Although parts of the original fortress can still be seen, it would have been better if its repurposed closer to its original design. Miagao Campo Santo Ruins The Miagao Public Cemetery is another repository of Spanish history. Just like old Spanish towns, the cemetery was also designed to have a campo santo or a funerary chapel. It is in this chapel where masses for the dead are held and during All Saint’s Day. This town has its own mortuary chapel that was made of limestone and red bricks. It was octagonal in shape and had a dome - a distinct feature of the capillary. Unfortunately, the once beautiful campo santo is now in ruins. Only a portion of its red walls and its altar remain standing. Plant covers have invaded the walls of the old cemetery church which probably contributed to its crumbling into ruins. You can still see its prominent red walls and its coral stones intact in some areas. I hope that the LGU of Miagao can take the initiative to restore the structure to its former glory to keep its story and legacy alive. Tay-tay Boni Standing adjacent to the main highway, this Spanish-period bridge is often overlooked by tourists who visit Miagao. The Puente de Boni was built in 1854 and was named after its foreman Boni Neular from Miagao. It was made from yellow coral stones mined from the mountains of Igbaras and Miagao. This small narrow bridge measuring 36 meter long was meant to be used by horse drawn carriages that travel between Miagao to Iloilo City. Today, the bridge is on display along the outskirts of the town. A park was built around it where you can appreciate the coral stones and its elegant design. The massive posts with topped by pyramids are eye-catching and will make you appreciate the bridge’s Spanish-period design. Its massive stone works gives you that impression that it was designed to last, and it did. POST TRAVEL NOTES Majority of tourists or travellers often visit a destination for its most popular attractions. They visit the place and enjoy the spots that people have shared or marvelled about. Miagao falls under this category. The town’s tourism is defined by its church. Regular tourists visit the church and only church. But behind the shadows of the church, the town has more to offer whether you are a nature lover or a history buff. I think it is about time that we explore more of Miagao that will make you go… wow! The thing with iconic destinations is that most visitors fall into the trap of defining a destination by that single attraction. Everything else go unnoticed. But if we take the time off to take things slow and explore more, you get small surprises along the way. You end the trip with a better insight and understanding of the place and better stories to share that go beyond the usual. Check out for my Miagao, Iloilo travel video on my Youtube Travel Channel:
Getting there: Iloilo City is the main gateway of Miagao, Iloilo. Major airlines have regular flights to Iloilo International Airport from major international and domestic airports in the country. You can take a van from the airport to SM City Iloilo and then take an air-conditioned mini bus to Ceres Bus Terminal in Mohon. From here, you can take bus headed for Antique. Ask the driver to drop you off at Miagao. If you want to go on personalised day hike or join hiking activities in Miagao, you may contact OMPZ Adventures through their Facebook Page. Just a heads up, you need to coordinate with an organizer first and they will be the one to coordinate with the tourism office of Miagao. #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels. Get 5% off on your Hull & Stern dry bag purchase on the Hull & Stern website when you use the code - marc7del.
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Marc del Rosario
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