marc7 travels |
This is the time of the year when Filipinos gather for a reunion in the most interesting location - the cemetery. Yes, you heard it right. The start of November gathers Filipino families at the final resting place of our departed love ones to remember and celebrate their lives here on earth. Cemeteries across the nation burst into a festive atmosphere, in the play of candlelights, flowers, and food, as both the living and the dead gather to celebrate life. I have a cool fascination for heritage cemeteries since I visited the Old Spanish Cemetery of San Joaquin in Iloilo. From then on, I will always check on heritage cemeteries in my intended destinations in hopes of exploring their old arches and/or simborios, or whatever is left of it. Some of these cemeteries carry stories with them that make it more interesting. In the spirit of Halloween, here are sone interesting cemeteries you might want to explore for its history and its stories. Paco Park, Manila Paco Park is the oldest Catholic cemetery in Metro Manila after its inauguration in 1822. Originally called Cementerio General de Dilao, it was built by the Dominicans for the affluent families of Intramuros who fell victims to a Cholera epidemic. Notable personalities who were once interred here were Dr. Jose Rizal, and the three martyred priests GomBurZa. It was de-commissioned in 1912 and was declared a National Park in 1966. The cemetery now stands as a green space in the middle of the metro. Its circular design makes it unique and gives you a look at how cemeteries were built in the area during the Spanish period. Fun fact, the Remedios Circle was also a cemetery, of a similar design, before it was turned into a promenade area. At the heart of the park is the St. Pancratius Chapel. The former simborio church was re-purposed to serve as a fully functional church.
La Loma Cemetery, Manila The La Loma Cemetery is the oldest cemetery that is still in use to this day. Opened in 1884, the 54-hectare cemetery was originally called Cementerio de Binondo and was an exclusive burial grounds for the Catholics during the Spanish-period. Prominent personalities buried in La Loma are Josefa Llanes Escoda, Vicente Lava, and Victorino Mapa. The La Loma Cemetery was one of the few areas in Manila that was spared from the destruction of World War 2. You can still marvel at its amazing collections of heritage Spanish-period structures to its art-deco mausoleums. At the heart of its heritage structure is the Chapel of St. Pancratius. This Spanish-period mortuary chapel was where the final mass for the dead is done before it is finally laid to rest. It was later de-commissioned when a newer church was built. At present, the chapel is being preserved, hopefully together with what remains of its Spanish-period gate, as a link to our colorful past.
Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery, Nagcarlan, Laguna The “Libingan sa Ilalim ng Nagcarlan” is the only underground cemetery in the Philippines and has been accorded as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. Built in 1845, the cemetery was a public burial site and the underground crypts were exclusive for Spanish friars and prominent families of Nagcarlan. The underground served as a meeting place for revolutionaries against Spanish authorities and a hide out for Filipino fighters during the Philippine-American War and World War 2. The sprawling cemetery is bounded by red stone walls that also serves as tombs. At the center of the cemetery is a small mortuary chapel where the final blessing is given. An image of the Santo Sepulcro is the main highlight of the chapel. A flight of stairs would lead you down to the underground cemetery. The tombs line the walls of the underground cemetery. There is a local story that shares that the cemetery and the church are connected by a tunnel and the access point is believed to be one of the crypts in the underground cemetery.
Hamtic Cemetery, Antique The Hamtic Cemetery is an unassuming cemetery in the middle of a rice field. Located a few meters from the main highway, the cemetery looks ordinary except for its Spanish-period baroque-style mortuary church. There’s very limited information about this mortuary chapel. However, there’s already a move to declare the chapel as a historical landmark by the LGU of Antique. The chapel was made from coral stones, adobe, and bricks. The design follows a baroque design similar to the churches of San Joaquin, Molo, and Tigbauan in Iloilo. There are two belfries that flank the facade of the church. An image of the Risen Christ is the highlight of the three-tiered facade of the simborio. But beyond the history of this chapel, there are interesting supernatural stories. Locals who bury their dead often surround the grave to ward off “aswangs” from feasting on the dead.
Sagada Cemetery, Sagada Before all the stories of a place that mends broken hearts, Sagada’s original claim to fame are its hanging coffins. This century-old tradition of the Cordillerans have been a subject of interests of academicians and tourists. However, not everyone is accorded this kind of burial and it is reserved to prominent and respected figures in the community. In fact, the community has its own town cemetery just a few meters from the church. The Sagada Town Cemetery joins this list, not for its history, but for its unique practice during this time of the year. The cemetery stands along one side of one of its hills. The cool weather and tranquility of the place exude a peaceful vibe in the area. Locals have an interesting practice of setting up bonfires on the graves of their loved ones during November 1 instead of candles. This gives an impression that the hillside is on fire on the night of remembering the dead.
POST TRAVEL NOTES November 1 is a day that reminds Filipinos of our close familial relationships, even when our loved ones have already passed on to the afterlife. This makes cemeteries a repository of stories and memories. So, it is not surprising that we have cemeteries that has its own history and story to share. It is like a time capsule that capture age-old practices and beliefs that gives us a glimpse of the past and beyond. As we remember our loved ones this long weekend, let us also remember to make the most of our life. Go around and make memories. Explore and make stories. So, when it is our time to go, we have tons of stories to be left behind and to be shared by the ones we have left behind. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
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Marc del Rosario
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November 2024
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