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#TheTravelingDaDAMO: Aba Gandang Santa Maria

5/12/2025

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This rustic town in Ilocos Sur looks unassuming from afar that, for those passing through, it may seem just like a regular Ilocano town. But just a couple of kilometers off the highway, this town preempts the historical beauty that this province has been known for. Its towering UNESCO Heritage church is a real beauty that will give you a glimpse of the rich and colorful past of the Ilocandias. In celebration of National Heritage Month, let’s explore the natural and man-made beauty of Santa Maria in Ilocos Sur.
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As we celebrate Heritage Month, join me in exploring one of the heritage towns in Ilocos Sur.
A community in area of Santa Maria already existed even before the arrival of the Spaniards in Ilocandia. It had a robust trade relations with its neighboring communities, the Chinese, and the Japanese. There are conflicts when it comes to the actual year that Santa Maria was declared as a town but the NHCP has noted it as 1769. However, the locals have pegged it as 1967 based off from their own local records. Similarly, Santa Maria had seen the pains of raids, conflicts, and wars through centuries. History was not exactly kind to the town. One thing that does stand out is the fact the town always stood up to these adversities, rising up higher each time.
The town of Santa Maria is popular for its church recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Site.
The laidback town of Santa Maria.
The town is also known for its majestic waterfalls.
Santa Maria is a history gem for Ilocos Sur. It is home to one of the four Baroque Churches in the Philippines that were collectively included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1991. Beyond its heritage and history, the town also prides itself with a natural beauty that only those who dare swing by get to enjoy and appreciate it.
 
Suso Beach and Hills
 
The view of this beach spot greets as you enter the poblacion area of Santa Maria. It is just one of the many beach spots that you can find along the coastline of this town. This beach spot is quite unique as its beauty can be seen from along the Suso Beach Walk along the national highway.
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The view of the Suso Beach from the baywalk.
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Suso Beach greets guests as you enter the poblacion.
Suso Beach is a refreshing sight to see with the hills surrounding it. Local folklore has shared that these hills were made by the hands of Angalo, a giant in Ilocano mythology, who molded the hill to honor the breasts of Aran. It is believed that the hills on the south side of this beach strip were shaped like breasts.
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Enjoying one of the beach views of Santa Maria.
The view of the hills on the northern side of Suso Beach.
There is a dive site off the coast of Suso Beach.
Suso Beach is one of the popular beach spots in Santa Maria.
Viewed from the beach walk, this beach spot is a mix of white sand shorelines on one side and rock formations on the other side. It is a popular spot among locals and guests for a beach break where you can enjoy a quick escape from the hot weather. The waters along the coast are home to one of the diving spots that the LGU is developing and organizing as part of its tourism program.
 
Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption (Sta. Maria Church)
 
The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption, more popularly known as Sta. Maria Church, is the prime tourist draw of this town. The church is a National Historical Landmark, a National Cultural Treasure, and it is one of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines collectively recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Site. This Spanish-period structure is a must-visit destination when you find yourself in Ilocos Sur.
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The Santa Maria Church is one of the four Baroque Churches that was recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Site.
Standing atop a hill, the Santa Maria Church stands majestically overlooking the whole town. Its red brick walls, baroque architecture, and its belfry vividly props you to past giving you a glimpse of the town’s history. The grand staircase from the bottom of the hill to the church yard adds to the snapshot of the town’s past. The view of the staircase, belfry, and church visually transports you to the past.
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The Santa Maria Church stands atop a hill. It has a free-standing belfry and a convent, uniquely built in front of it.
A view of the grand staircase leading to the church from the town center.
The UNESCO Heritage Site sign installed at the back of the church.
The second grand staircase that connect the church to its Spanish-era cemetery.
The church looks massive with its side buttresses. These buttresses serve as added support to the structure during earthquakes. The front buttress has a relief image of the Our Lady of the Assumption on a guava tree, an artistic rendition of the humble beginnings of the present structure. The bell tower which stands a few meters from the church, was built in 1810. It is an octagonal four-storey tower topped with a dome and cupola.
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The relief image of the Virgin at the first buttress of the church.
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The four-storey belfry of the Santa Maria Church.
The church is an example of the Earthquake Baroque architecture.
Tha simple facade of the Santa Maria Church.
The large side buttresses of the church and its free-standing belfry.
Interestingly, its convent was constructed facing the church. This is not the usual design where the convent is usually located beside the church.  This unusual placement does not give guests an unobstructed full view of the church’s facade. A bridge way connects the convent to the church. A second grand staircase is located on the other side of the church leading to the Spanish-period cemetery of Santa Maria.
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A view of the church altar from the nave.
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A view of the nave from the altar of the church.
The minor altar on the left has the image of St. Joseph and the baby Jesus.
The elegant main altar bears the image of the Our Lady of the Assumption.
The minor altar on the right bears the image of the Risen Christ.
The church has a rectangular nave. The interior is simple with three altars in front that will grab your attention. The massive walls of the church give it that sanctuary vibe to the church. The main altar is adorned by intricate designs has the image of the Our Lady of the Assumption as its main centerpiece. Two other minor altars flank the altar bearing the images of St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and The Risen Christ as its main centerpieces. Despite of its massive size from the outside, the church gives you an impression that it is smaller, compared to other churches in the area, once you step inside it.
 
Santa Maria Twin Chapel Ruins (East Central School)
 
The original church was first built at the base of the hill. It was here where the image of the Our Lady of the Assumption was displayed. Local legend has shared that the image often wandered and would always end up perched on a guava tree that once stood atop the hill where the present church is now standing. It was said to be the sign that the Virgin Mary wanted the church to be moved atop the hill. That is reason why the church was relocated to its present site. This would also explain the relief of the Our Lady of Assumption on the front buttress of the church.
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The South Chapel structure remains intact and is now used as a classroom.
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The ruins of the North Chapel was integrated into a new building.
A quick visit to the East Central School, right at the foot of the hill, would show you the ruins of the old church that once stood here. There were two chapels during its time. The North Chapel was for the Senor Santo Kristo and the South Chapel honors the Nuestra Senora dela Asuncion. Now only the South Chapel remains intact and still in use to this day. 
The original church was at the foot of the hill with twin chapels. You can see the top of the former South Chapel from the present church.
You can still see the red bricks of the original structure.
Legends have shared that the Virgin Mary often wandered to the guava tree atop the hill. This is the reason why the church was relocated.
The outer walls of the former South Chapel and the remains of the foundation of the North Chapel were made from the same red bricks of the present church structure. It is also the same bricks used in the construction of the town’s Spanish Era Cemetery. This indicates the ruins of these old twin churches would date back to same period, probably older. The South Chapel was already converted into a school classroom. Its facade and most of its structure remains intact and preserved that you can still see the main facade of the chapel. The foundations/ruins of the North Chapel were “integrated” to a more modern-looking school building.
 
Lourdes Grotto and Gazebo
 
Standing at the base of hill and beside the grand staircase of the Santa Maria Church is the Lourdes Grotto and Gazebo. The grotto is an exact replica of the Lourdes Grotto in France. It is an open space that offers a spiritual refuge for those wanting to offer their solemn prayers.
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The Lourdes Grotto of Santa Maria is a replica of the grotto in France.
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The grotto has the depiction of the visionary with the Virgin.
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It sits adjacent to the stairs thus completing the solemn vibe.
The Lourdes Grotto stands along the main road. It features an image of the Virgin Mary as an apparition inside a cave with St. Bernadette in prayer. This part of the grotto also serves as the altar with a small altar table. White-washed pews were also installed for the faithful. I guess they also conduct mass in the area. The Lourdes Grotto completes the whole picturesque view of the Santa Maria Church. 
 
Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery
 
The other side of the hill, where the Santa Maria Church stands, holds one of the town’s heritage structures from the Spanish-period - the Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery. A grand staircase leads down to a pathway to the cemetery. It stands around 200 meters from the church through an established trail that leads directly to the entrance of the cemetery.
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The Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery is one of the preserved heritage sites of the town.
The cemetery is 200 meters away from the church and can be reached via a cemented trail.
It features a brick gate, brick fence, and a simborio that dates back to the Spanish-period.
The simborio sits at the other and of the cemetery.
The entrance of the Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery is a 2-storey structure made of red bricks, similar to the church’s structure. The top part of the cemetery gate looks like a small belfry. The cemetery’s square perimeter is fenced by a red brick wall. In the middle of the cemetery is a dome-shaped structure where a wooden cross is installed. There were only a few “active” burial plots in the area as you can see that it was properly maintained.
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Standing at the doorstep of the simborio of the Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery.
The Simborio is where the last rites are given by the priest before being laid to its final resting place.
The facade mimics the facade of the Santa Maria Church.
This is the altar of the Simborio.
At the other end of the cemetery stands the simborio or cemetery chapel. Constructed with the same red bricks, the chapel is where the last rites are given to the dead before being laid to rest. The facade “mimicked” the facade of the Santa Maria Church, complete with jars atop the facade. Similarly, a cross sits atop its entrance. A small red brick altar serves as the main feature of the simborio’s interior. You can see that the structure was overrun by vegetation. This situation needs to be addressed to preserve the structure. The Santa Maria Spanish Era Cemetery is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site area of the church.
 
Pinsal Falls
 
From the town poblacion, we headed out to the hinterlands of Santa Maria to visit one of nature’s gift to this town. Pinsal Falls is the twin waterfalls attraction of Ilocos Sur. Local folklore spoke of a mini-pool, located at the top of the falls, that was created by the footprint of Angalo as he was searching for his love, Aran. Angalo and Aran are the local versions of the story Adam and Eve.
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Pinsal Falls is the most popular natural attraction in Santa Maria.
This famous waterfall attraction lies along the boundary of Ilocos Sur and Abra.
The LGU developed the area to provide basic tourist services to its guests.
Pinsal is best visited during the rainy season where you can see water cascade on its twin falls.
Standing at 85 feet, Pinsal Falls is along the borders of Ilocos Sur and Abra. Spring water cascades along a series of rock formations into a deep base pool where guests can go for a quick dip and/or get close to its cascade using a floating cottage. The waters of the falls split at the top into two cascades creating the twin falls attraction. It is best to visit the place during the rainy season yo appreciate its beauty. You can also hike to the top of the falls to view its spring pools.
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The view of Pinsal Falls from the viewdeck.
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The view of the falls from the river edge.
Cemented stairs provide easier access to the viewdecks of Pinsal Falls.
The Dad, daughter, and mom (DaDaMo) enjoying the beauty of Pinsal Falls.
You can also rent a floating cottage to get an upclose view of the cascade of Pinsal Falls.
We did enjoy the view of Pinsal Falls when we visited it. Unfortunately, we came in at a time when the dry season was already starting so we only got to see only 1 of its cascade. The area was already developed by the LGU complete with tourist facilities and view decks for a more convenient Pinsal experience. Floating cottages are available who want to get closer to the cascade for a minimal charge. It was a great view where we got to see a different side of Santa Maria.
 
 
POST TRAVEL NOTES
Santa Maria rose to fame because of its heritage church that really showcased the strong faith of the locals through time. But beyond these historical structures, the town offers a lot more with its God-given natural beauty. It is truly blessed that it is not surprising how their faith has manifested strongly through centuries. One only needs to slow down to enjoy what Santa Maria has to offer.
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We have got more summer adventures to share!!!
Just like in theater, there are no small towns in the Philippines. Every town has something to offer that is uniquely its own. Whether be it a winding stream or a mighty waterfalls, there will always be something to look forward to explore in all corners of our country. All it takes is a keen eye and a passion for adventure.
 
Watch out for the release of our Santa Maria travel video on my Youtube Travel Channel soon.

#MahalinNatinAngPilipinas

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Getting there: We went on a roadtrip for this adventure and we just loaded Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur on Waze or Google Map.
 
If you are commuting, you can take a bus from Cubao, Pasay, or Sampaloc bound for Vigan or Laoag. You need to inform the ticket counter and the conductor that you are going down at Santa Maria. Tricycles are the mode of transportation within the town.

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1 Comment
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6/4/2025 03:37:20 pm

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