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The Philippines is gearing up again for another week of celebration as the Christian community observes the Holy Week. This is the season where Filipinos troop to their respective provinces and observe the solemn faith-based traditions. From the annual panata to self-flagellation to solemn processions, the Philippines has a collection of faith practices that can put one in awe or in shock.  Lenten celebrations are not complete without the Visita Iglesia. This year... we are going around Ilocos Sur. One of the faith practices that I have grown fond of through the years is the Visita Iglesia. The practice of visiting 7 churches embodies the Stations of the Cross in celebration of the suffering of Jesus Christ. Prayers and personal reflections are offered at every stop to profess one’s faith. The practice is usually done on Maundy Thursday but it has now become a common practice to do it during the Holy Week. As part of my travel stories this year, I am featuring 7 Ilocos Sur Heritage Churches in my Holy Week blog feature. Established in 1818 as an independent province, the province was initially a part of the mother province Ilocos, an encomienda under explorer Juan de Salcedo. The history of the province dates back to as far back as 1572 and, with the evangelization of the region, stone churches were built in many of its towns. Some of these churches remain standing to this day. We took a day out to visit some of these churches to give insights to the colorful past of the church and the province. Sta. Lucia Parish Church, Sta. Lucia Built by the Agustinian friars in 1586, the church is the only church in Ilocos Sur that has a dome, designed similar to that of the St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. It was built of red bricks called “ladrillo” under a Romanesque architecture with its rose window on its facade and its flying buttresses. It was dedicated to the martyred saint, St. Lucy, whose image is said to be similar to the lady that locals saw during a heavy downpour that made the burikans, or tattooed Igorots, fled to the east. The town was later named Sta. Lucia, in honor of their patron saint.  The Sta. Lucia Church is the only church with a dome in Ilocos Sur. The facade of the Sta. Lucia Parish Church stands out with its red and white facade complete with its intricate designs. A rounded window with the image of St. Lucy, atop its arched doors, is the main feature of the church’s facade. The intricate design catches one’s fancy and it kinda reminded me of an intricately designed cake. The four-storey belltower stand adjacent to the left of the church while the historical convent stands a few meters of the church. The convent once served as the headquarters of Ilocano Katipuneros lead by General Manuel Tinio in their fight against the Spaniards.
The interior of the church was amazing. The ceiling paintings stood out with its depiction of different passages from the bible. The large arched windows allowed natural lighting to filter inside the church. The two-level retablo glowed in gold with the image of St. Lucy as its main centerpiece. There are two smaller retablos flanking the main altar to complete the beauty of its interior. St. John of Sahagun Parish Church, Candon City Established in 1591 by Augustinian missionaries, the St. John of Sahagun Parish Church, more popularly known as Candon Church, has its fair share of Philippine history. The stone church was built in 1695 and had undergone 2 rehabilitations in 1709 and 1865. The convent was captured by the revolutionaries, led by Isabelo Abaya, in 1898. The church was spared during the WW2 liberation of Ilocos Sur when the Japanese burned down the town of Candon.  Candon Church has the longest religious artwork in the Philippines.
The facade of the church is striking with its retablo-like facade. The 4-story church belfry towers adjacent to the church with its unique rectangular base. The church was built under the earthquake baroque architecture. Plant outgrowth on the facade and bell tower may indicate the age of the structure but this needs to be addressed as this will weaken the structure in time.  The ceiling of Candon Church is adorned with beautiful religious artworks. The interior of the church is very striking. The first thing that will catch your attention are the intricate religious ceiling paintings. The church is home to the longest religious painting in the country. Measuring 150 feet long, the painting depicts the 20 Mysteries of the Holy Rosary and was done by Father Vicente Avila, Mel Andino, and Redentor Castillo. The simple altar, adorned in white and gold highlights, complements thintricate artworks, making visitors focus on the beauty of its ceilings. Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption, Sta. Maria A visit to the Sta. Maria Church is like being transported through time. Sitting atop a hill, the church stands majestically like a fortress watching over the town. The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption was designated as a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1993 under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines for its well-preserved church complex. From its bell tower to its Spanish-period cemetery, a visit would give you that appreciation for the country’s colorful past.  The Sta. Maria Church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines. The church can be reached from the base of the hill through an 85-step grand granite stairway. Built from bricks and mortars, the facade stands out for its reddish shade and its simple facade marked by rounded pillars on both ends. The church was built under the earthquake baroque architecture outlined by huge buttresses on the sides of the church. A relief of the image of the Lady of the Assumption atop a guava tree was installed on the first rectangular buttress of the church as a reminder as to why the church was built on this site. A few meters away from the church is the free-standing belfry of the Sta. Maria Church.
One would be amazed at the huge navel of the church. It could accommodate 800 people at one seating. Unlike the churches in Sta. Lucia and Candon, there are no ceiling murals in Sta. Maria Church. The simple interior makes you focus on the grand and intricately designed retablos of the church. The main altar has the image of the Lady of the Assumption as its main feature. There are two minor altars that flanks the main altar of the church on both sides. Parish of Saint Augustine of Hippo, Bantay More popularly known as Bantay Church, the church was completed in 1590 under a Neo-Gothic and Romanesque architecture. It was severely damaged during World War 2 and was restored in the 1950s. Its red and cream facade stands out unique with two rectangular belfries, with conical cupola, flanking it on both sides. The red bricks of the facade catches your attention when you are looking at its facade.  The Bantay Church and its iconic Bantay Watch Tower. The interior is void of any intricate painting and flooring. It makes you focus on the golden two-tierred altar right in front that bears the image of the Our Lady of Charity, the Patroness of Ilocandia, as its main centerpiece. The altar just draws you to it making it the focal point of the church’s interior. A smaller chapel is located at the ruins of the old church, just right beside the present church structure.  The iconic Bantay Watch Tower watches over the low lying areas surrounding it. The biggest draw of the Bantay Church is the free-standing Bantayan Belfry. The belfry, also made from red bricks, stands atop a hill overlooking the surrounding flatlands and Abra. It served as a watchtower from invaders hence the name “Bantay”, or “guardian”. The Bantay Belfry has been an icon for Ilocos Sur and has been featured in many movies and series because of its rustic, picturesque, and antique feel. It is currently being rehabilitated after it was severely damaged by the 2022 Abra Earthquake. Metropolitan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle, Vigan City The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle, also known as Vigan Cathedral, is part of the Historic Town of Vigan that was declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. It serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia that oversees the Ilocos Sur region. The present-day church started construction in 1790 and was the fourth stone structure to be built since the church was founded. Adjacent to the church is the Palacio de Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia, the only remaining Spanish-period Archbishop’s Palace in the country.  The Vigan Cathedral and its Belfry was being rehabilitated in time for its 450th celebration. The church was built under the earthquake baroque style with large buttresses on the sides. The simple facade of the church has 3 arched doorways and 3 stained-glass windows above it. Standing on the right side of the church, is a 25 meter-high free standing belfry. The belfry has a rectangular base and has a rooster wind vane on top, a symbol for St. Peter. The belfry houses a total of 7 bells.
Similar to the other churches in the area, the interior of the church is void of intricate ceiling paintings. The main altar glows in gold and silver with the image of the Virgin Mary as its centerpiece. The painting of the 4 apostles are mounted on the side walls of the main altar. There are also minor altars along the side naves. The church was under rehabilitation when I visited in line with its 450th celebration this coming April 30. Simbaan a Bassit, Vigan City Simbaan a Bassit is a small church in the city of Vigan that is about 400 meters away from the Cathedral. Its name is derived from the Ilocano word “bassit” which means “small” because its relative size is a lot smaller compared to that of the cathedral. Built in 1852, it was formerly a Spanish-period cemetery church where the last blessing is held before the body of the dead is buried to its final resting place. Eventually, it became a full-pledges church in the city and it is currently where masses are held while the cathedral is on rehabilitation.  Despite of the wires, the facade of the Simbaan a Bassit stands out at the end of a major street in Vigan City.
The facade of the Simbaan a Bassit is simple and is void of the usual artistry that the bigger churches in the area have. Except for the moldings of cherubim and seraphim atop the door, the only thing that is striking is how it mimics the Vigan Cathedral’s facade and the bells hanging at the top of the facade. It is the only church in the region that has its bells hanging from its gables. But don’t be fooled by its simple facade because you will be impressed by its interior. The ceiling paintings are very vivid depicting biblical passages from the bible. The painting of people gathering in prayer and looking down at the altar was very detailed. It complements the neauty of the gold retablo with the image of Christ on the Cross as its centerpiece. It was a real beauty.My interpretation of it is that they are the ones who have gone ahead of us joining in prayer with the living inside the church. St. William the Hermit Parish Church, Magsingal The most striking feature of this church is the church belfry that lies close to the national highway. One would be amazed by the sight of an old belfry rising out of the horizon as you drive by the church complex. The construction of the original structure was completed in 1761 but it was later burned down during the revolt led by the Diego Silang. What remains of the old church are its ruins and the bell tower that was built in 1732. The area is now a heritage park and was recognized as a National Cultural Treasure in 2001.  The Church Ruins and Bell Tower of Masingal was declared a National Cultural Treasure in 2001. The present church was built in 1827. The facade has a single arch door with 3 windows above it. There are three niches that bears images of its saints - 2 adjacent to the main door and one at the top. The top most niche bears the image of St. William the Hermit. An image of the Virgin Mary stands at the pillar fronting the church facade.
The interior of the church gives a relaxing sanctuary vibe with its white and cream-colored walls and ceilings. The main attraction of the interior is the blue-colored retablo with its sea themed design. The three-tierred retablo is complete with mermaids guarding the image of St. William the Hermit. The intricate retablo carvings, complete with seahorse, starfish, clam, and sea waves, was done by a talented local fisherman Pablo Tamayo after the design of another Magsingal local, Juan Nepomuceno Tamayo. POST TRAVEL NOTES These 7 Ilocos Sur Churches are not only a manifestation of the Ilocanos’ faith but are also repositories of the province’s painful history. While these churches were built by Ilocano hands, it was the same Ilocano hands that also took charge of it during the tumultuous times of the revolution against the Spanish regime. A visit to these churches go beyond the Catholic Christian faith but is also an opportunity to understand how the Philippines came to be from the Ilocanos’ narrative. It gives you a preview of the faith and the stories of the province’s fight for the country.  The gold sand island kicked off my summer 2025! We are heading there next. As we all come together to celebrate this year’s Holy Week, let us do the Visita Iglesia with a different perspective. Let this be an opportunity for us to strengthen our Christian faith as we discover and/or re-discover the belief and religious practices of the towns that we will be visiting. We can go beyond the usual by also exploring how the town came to be with the local’s understanding of history. Just a gentle reminder, let us be mindful and respectful of the town’s norms and practices when we go out and explore this Lenten season. #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Getting there: There are a number of buses that offer trips to these towns in Ilocos Sur. I have arranged the sequence of the churches based off from the first town to the last, if you are coming from the south or Metro Manila. You can take a bus bound for Vigan and start your Visita Iglesia at Sta. Lucia Church. You can take a bus or jeeps going to the next town. If you are driving your own car, you can use the Waze app to guide you during the trip. You can spend a night in Vigan and enjoy a side triparound the city, after your Visita Iglesia. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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