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From a visita to a city to a district, this Iloilo destination is an old-time charmer. It is the largest district in Iloilo City, both in size and population. It fuses the energy of the past with the dynamics of the present. It fuses it in a very charming way. This is the district of Jaro in Iloilo City, the center of the Candelaria devotion in the Philippines.  The iconic belfry of Jaro is a real beauty. The district of Jaro was initially called Saro or Salog, a town known to be one of the “richer” areas in the province. Its history pre-dates the arrival of Spaniards that indicates strong trading connections with China and Siam. It was founded as a visita of Oton in 1575 and later on became a city in 1891. It was in 1941 that Jaro was incorporated to Iloilo City as a district due to the shift towards Iloilo Port as a focal point of the city’s economy. Jaro is an old town charmer. The district is a repository of heritage and historic structures that gives you snapshots of the district through different time periods. These “time-stamped” structures are fused with the modern Jaro giving it that unique old-town Philippine charm. National Shrine of the Our Lady of Candles (Jaro Metro Cathedral) The church stands unique as it is one of the few churches in the region where the belfry stands separate from the church. The church was first established as a visita in 1575 under Oton. It was later transferred to the jurisdiction of Arevalo in 1584. It became an independent parish in 1587, honoring the Our Lady of Nativity. It was in 1636 that the patron saint was changed to the Nuestra Senora de Candelaria after the poblacion was transferred to its present location.  The Jaro Cathedral is the center of the Candelaria devotion in the Philippines. The present structure started construction in 1869, consecrated in 1874, and was built under the Romanesque Revival architecture. The church facade bears the image of the town’s patron saint - Nuestra Senora de Candelaria. The unique design allows visitors to climb up the balcony where the revered image was mounted. From the platform, you get a beautiful view of the Jaro Belfry across the street. The image of the Nuestra Senora de Candelaria was first Marian image that was canonically crowned by Pope and Saint John Paul II. The event also marked the declaration that the Nuestra Senora de Candelaria would be the patron saint of Western Visayas, Negros Occidental, and Romblon.  The Nuestra Señora de Candelaria was the first Marian image canonically crowned by Saint Pope John Paul II. The interior of the church was simple and elegant. The main altar glowed in gold with the image of the town’s patron saint as its highlight. Interestingly, the pillars of the church are lined with images of male saints, a contrast with that of Molo Church. The devotion to the Our Lady of Candles has made Jaro the center of Candelaria devotion in the country.
Apart from the Marian devotion, the church also shares a bit of history. Philippine hero, Graciano Lopez Jaena, was baptized in the church in 1856. A National Historical Marker was installed in the church in 1976 to recognize the historical value of the church. It was elevated to a cathedral and to a national shrine, the first in Western Visayas, in 2012. Jaro Belfry Standing majestically across the church is the Jaro Belfry. It is icon in Jaro because it dominates the skyline and is the most recognizable structure in the district. It stands unique because it is one of the few stand alone belfries that were built during the Spanish-period. It is the oldest belfry in the Visayas.  The Jaro Belfry is unique as it is one of the few that stands separate from the church. Built in bricks and limestone rocks, the Jaro Belfry was built in 1744. The 95-feet structure served as a belfry and also as a watchtower against moro pirates. The belfry was damaged by earthquakes, the latest was the Lady Caycay Earthquake in 1948, that left only the first floor standing. It was declared a National Historical Landmark in 1984 and was fully restored in 2022. Graciano Lopez Jaena Park (Plaza Jaro) At the heart of the district is the Graciano Lopez Jaena Park, more popularly known as Plaza Jaro. The 2-hectare park is a town square that was designed by Father Aguado in 1927. It is considered one of the most beautiful plazas in Panay with its arch, park benches, and a bandstand at the center of the park. The plaza offers an amazing view of the Jaro Church, the belfry, and the surrounding mansions in the area.
Restoration efforts began after the Jaro Plaza was included in the list of Iloilo’s Cultural Heritage Tourism Zones. The plaza’s added attractions include dancing fountains and monuments honoring Ilonggo heroes - Graciano Lopez Jaena and Patrocino Gambao. They also installed a memorial for World War 2 local veterans. It was later renamed to Graciano Lopez Jaena Park to honor the Jaro-born hero. Old Jaro Municipal Hall Declared as an Important Cultural Property in 2017 by the National Museum of the Philippines, the Old Jaro Municipal Hall is part of Iloilo’s Cultural Heritage Tourism Zones. The two-story art-deco structure, designed by Juan Arellano, was completed in 1934. It used to be the center of governance of Jaro when it was still a separate city from Iloilo. It was later used as a police headquarters of the district.  The art-deco Old Jaro Municipal Hall was an eye-catcher. The structure was restored by the National Museum and was used as a regional office. The interior of the building has offices and huge halls which was quite a surprise since the building looked small and compact from the outside. It is largely intact but is not in use at the moment. I asked permission to have a look around and was given permission. It was nostalgic. It was like I was walking into a set of a period film when I was exploring around the building. Agaton 1927 Museum Tucked on one of the corners near the plaza is a heritage house turned museum-cafe, the Agaton 1927 Museum. The house was built in 1927 by the owners - Dona Agatona Arguelles de Jalandoni and her husband, Don Ruperto Jalandoni. The house is a repository of the family’s heirlooms and their strong Catholic faith. In fact, the house is one of the few private residences that the Vatican allows masses to be celebrated.  The Agaton 1927 Museum is one of the well-preserved heritage houses in the District of Jaro. The house is a typical bahay-na-bato structure. The first level has been turned into business spaces while the second level was turned into a museum-cafe. The museum gives you a glimpse of the history of the house, the family’s life, and how the family practiced their Catholic faith. The house comes alive with its collections of photos and memorabilia of the family’s decades of living in the house. You get to feel the fire of their faith with their altars, collection of religious images, and the various recognition that they received from the Archdiocese and the Vatican. The house is a fusion of history and faith.
The tour ends with a cold calamansi drink and uraro at their cafe. You can also try the dishes from their heirloom recipes to complete the experience. These recipes were probably served during the events, lunches, and/or dinners that the Jalandonis once served to the guests who once graced the house. I tried their dinuguan and it was really good. A visit to this heritage house is definitely an experience for the mind, body, and soul. Philippine American Cemetery On one side of district, a solemn place stands as a memorial to the long-standing relations of the Philippines and the Unites States. The Philippine American Cemetery, along Commission Civil Street, is the only cemetery of its kind outside of Metro Manila. The one-hectare memorial was established in 1908. It pre-dates the Manila American Cemetery in Taguig. There was a British Cemetery that existed during the Spanish period. The Philippine American Cemetery was established by American enlisted personnel after the Americans captured Iloilo from Spain. Some of the remains from the former cemetery was interred here. There’s a move to include the cemetery as part of the heritage sites in Iloilo. Balantang Memorial Cemetery National Shrine The Balantang Memorial Cemetery National Shrine is a national shrine that honors the freedom fighters of Panay and Romblon who stood their ground against the Japanese. Located along the outskirts of the district, it was in this area where one of the bloodiest battles in happened during the liberation of the island. Filipino Freedom Fighters took a fierce stand on this hallowed ground against the Japanese, despite being outnumbered, to pave the way for the allied forces to land in Tigbauan. It paved the way for the liberation of Panay Island from thr Japanese Imperial Army.
A national shrine now stands to recognize the bravery of Filipinos during World War 2. A pylon is the centerpiece of the shrine where the NHI marker was installed recognizing the historical significance of Balantang. A tomb for the unknown soldiers stands behind the pylon to honor the unknown heroes of the war and a heroes’ wall where the names of the 1,421 casualties of Balantang were inscribed. There are also crypts along the perimeters of the shrine where the remains of its heroes are interred. Getting there: You can take a jeep with the Leganes sign at the Old Jaro Municipal Hall. Ask the driver to drop you off at the Balantang Memorial Cemetery National Shrine. The Heritage Mansions of Jaro Jaro has been one of the rich areas of Iloilo. This is evident when you walk around the central business area of the district where you get to admire its collection of heritage mansions and houses. From well-preserved mansions to dilapidated ones, it gives you a preview of the colorful and extravagant past of Jaro. The Lopez Heritage House, or more popularly called Nelly’s Garden, is one of the most visited mansions in Jaro. Located along E. Lopez Street, it is an eye-catcher with its white mansion sitting along a 4-hectare manicured lawn. It was built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez and Dona Elena Hofilena. Its grand architecture gives you a glimpse of the affluent lives of the rich families in Jaro. It was declared a National Heritage House in 2004 and it is often referred to as the “Queen of Heritage Houses in Iloilo”.  Nelly's Garden is the most popular and iconic among all the heritage houses in Jaro.
Just a few meters from the plaza, you will also find the Casa Mariquit or the Javellana-Lopez Heritage House. Built in 1803, the house follows the bahay-na-bato architecture. It was home to the late former Vice President Fernando Lopez, Sr. who served under the administration of Quirino and Marcos, Sr. The house was restored and is now museum. There are also well-preserved mansions along the outskirts of the city. The Lizares-Gamboa Mansion inside Angelicum is another heritage mansion that is worth admiring. It was built in 1937 under Beaux-Arts architecture. The house had seen the glory and horrors of World War 2. It was declared an Important Cultural Property in 2024. It now re-used as a chapel by Angelicum School of Iloilo.  The Lizares Mansion is another iconic mansion of Jaro.
The heritage houses of Jaro, and Iloilo City as a whole, is worthy of a separate feature. These houses are snapshots of the past that gives you the distinct vibe from the time period that it was built. It gives you a glimpse of what architectural beauty exists during that time. These houses were mute witnesses to the glory and gore that Jaro experienced in past POST TRAVEL NOTES Jaro has that distinct elegant aura when you explore its streets. The church, the plaza, and the mansions, fused with modern structures, give it that old town charm. Walking its streets made me feel that I was walking along the millionaires’ row of Jaro’s past. Jaro engages you with the glory and extravagance of its rich and famous.  Summer is all-year round in the Philippines! Each destination and its line of attractions engage you with a particular character. This character makes each destination uniquely its own. Hindi kelangan ihambing o ihalintulad ang ganda ng sariling lugar sa mas kilalang puntahan para maka-engganyo ng bisita. Learn to appreciate what you have and see its uniqueness because that will encourage more tourists to your place. Check out my Molo and Jaro travel video on my Youtube Travel Channel:
Getting there: There are daily flights from Manila and key cities of the Philippines to Iloilo. Once you arrive at Iloilo International Airport, there are TNVS and taxis that can take you to Jaro Church or Plaza where you can start your exploration of the district. Alternatively, you can take a van to SM City Iloilo. Once you are at SM, you need to cross to the other side where you can take a jeep with the Leganes sign. Ask the driver to drop you off at the Jaro Plaza. #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels. Get 5% off on your Hull & Stern dry bag purchase on the Hull & Stern website when you use the code - marc7del.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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