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Who would have thought that a biscuit from this quaint town, one of my favorite, would put this humble town in the food tourism map of Cebu and the Philippines? But beyond its famed snack, traces of the town’s humble beginnings can be traced back starting from the Spanish-period. Exploring the town stitches the different periods of foreign occupations in the Cebu town of Liloan.  Liloan is a small town with an iconic biscuit and a ton of stories to share with any kind of traveler. Just about an hour away from Cebu City, the town of Liloan is part of the main urban center of the province. It was established as a pueblo and a parish in 1845, and has since been a mute witness to the province’s rich history. The name Liloan was derived from the Cebuano phrase “lilo-an” which means a place where whirlpools or “lilo” are created by the ebb and flow of the bay waters. From a quaint little town to a bustling municipality, Liloan has kept its history rooted in its food, attractions, and traditions. San Fernando El Rey Parish Church Right at the heart of Liloan stands the Spanish-period church, San Fernando El Rey Parish Church. Built in 1847, it is the oldest standing heritage structure in town. The church stands with two unique features among the historical structures in Cebu. - the church’s orientation and size. While most churches in the country faces the sea, the Liloan Parish Church faces the mountains on the west side of town. No plausible explanation has been accepted on the unique orientation of the church. The size of the church is relatively bigger compared to the other churches built in the province.  The San Fernando El Rey Parish Church is the oldest heritage structure in Liloan. The church is an eye catcher because its old stone architecture will grab your attention as you traverse along the national highway. The church’s impressive and simple facade, flanked by its two adjacent belfries, stands as a dominant structure of Likoan’s skyline. The sprawling tree-covered courtyard gives a refreshing vibe to the whole complex. Its arched entrance has an engraving, Ano 1847, the year of the church’s construction.
The church is shaped like a cross with a dome on its crossing. The three-tierred retablo, clad in gold, has the image of Liloan’s patron saint as its highlight. The transepts have smaller altars that honor St. Joseph and Mama Mary. You will also be amazed by the stained-glass windows that line the walls of its navel. You could really feel the sanctuary vibe while enjoying the view of the interior of the San Fernando El Rey Parish Church. Liloan Municipal Hall Just right across the Liloan Parish Church is the center of governance of the municipality. The complex houses the municipal offices that provide the basic services to residents of Liloan. Similar to other Spanish-period towns, the munisipyo follows the usual two-story structure with a lanay-style driveway. It was undergoing minor painting works at the time of my visit.  The Municipal Hall of Liloan at the poblacion. The municipal hall courtyard was also getting a refreshed look when I was there. A statue honoring Dr. Jose Rizal stands as its main highlight. There were small pop-up shops that sell local products and meals on one side. A miniature replica of the Bagacay Point Lighthouse stands along the junction across the complex highlighting one of the heritage structures in Liloan. Titay’s Liloan Rosquillos and Rosquillos Festival If there was one thing that placed Liloan in the tourism map, it will be its iconic biscuit Rosquillos. Its name was derived from the Soanish word “rosca” which meant ringlets, owing to its flowery shape with a hole in the middle where you can insert your finger into. The biscuit, made from flour, eggs, milk, and a secret ingredient, was originally given as a side snack for every soda bought from their store. It became an instant sensation with, no other than, former PH President Sergio Osmena taking notice of this unique snack.  Titay's Rosquillos is THE iconicsnack of Liloan and Cebu. The passion for baking of Margareta “Titay” Frasco has gone a long way since then. From its humble beginnings, the business has grown to having their own store/museum where you can see how the rosquillos has become an icon, not only in Liloan but in Cebu. Its popularity gave birth to its own celebration - the Rosquillos Festival. The festival is held every end of May to honor the Liloan’s patron saint, St. Ferdinand El Rey. The rosquillos is a personal favorite so I did not miss out on visiting the original shop in Liloan. Apart from the usual Cebu pasalubongs that you can buy in the store, you can also enjoy a light snack while reading through the history of this famous biscuit. It is interesting how a small snack, that was once just a side snack, has given a different tourism perspective for a town like Liloan. Pier 88 and Liloan By-Pass Road Liloan has grown to become a bustling town in Cebu. Its growth has attracted businesses in the area creating more economical opportunities for its residents. This has brought in the development of Pier 88 to connect them to other seaports in the region. To date, Pier88 is connected to Mactan and Camotes Island with regular daily trips to these ports.
Standing adjacent to Pier 88 is the development of the Liloan By-Pass Road. The road runs along the coastline of the town and offers an amazing view of the Camotes Sea. Although the road is the still in construction, the area is frequently visited by locals who enjoy a morning or afternoon walk or jog along its length. I enjoyed just taking a spot along its banks and took in the view of the sea. Silot Bay and Suba Bridge Silot Bay is a 100-hectare tidal lagoon within the poblacion area of Liloan. The area is complete with its mangrove forest, two islets, and recreational areas like Papa Kit’s Marina and Fishing Lagoon. The tides affect the depth of the lagoon and I was lucky to have caught the view of locals fishing as the water receded because of the low tide. The lagoon is weekend spot for locals who want a quick relief from the heat of the metro.  Silot Bay is a tidal lagoon at the heart of Liloan. At the mouth of the lagoon is the Suba Bridge. It is a crucial link between Brgy. Poblacion and Brgy. Catarman and once played host to yachts that brought in guests to Silot Bay. There are picnic huts and tables at the base of the bridge where locals can enjoy a quick dip with family and friends. Just like other bridges in the country, it has its own story to share, from the supernatural and myths to lovers professing their love by the bridge.
The most prominent attraction in Silot Bay is Papa Kit’s Marina and Fishing Lagoon. The sprawling resort has mangroves spots for fishing, villas for accommodations, swimming pools, and a number of restaurants where you can enjoy a wide selection of entrees. They also offer other recreational activities that you can enjoy with family and friends. It is a great destination if you are looking for a quick weekend escape from the metro. Bagacay Point Lighthouse Liloan lies along the entrance of the Mactan Strait so it is not surprising that lighthouses were built to serve as guides to seafarers entering the strait. In fact, there are two heritage lighthouses that can be found in Liloan - the Bantayan ng Hari and the Bagacay Point Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the Spanish-period baluarte or Bantayan ng Hari lies inside a posh private village so it is no longer accessible to the public.  The Bagacay Point Lighthouse is a heritage structure from the American period. The Bagacay Point Lighthouse is an American-period lighthouse that was once the center of the Liloan’s festival prior to the introduction of the Rosquillos Festival. Standing at 52 meters, the lighthouse guides seafarers that traverse the north coast of Cebu and the Mactan Channel. It started operations on April 1905 and has since been in service for more than a century. The octagonal lighthouse was declared a National Historical Landmark in 2004. Marina Sanctuary Bayview Unlike other beach destinations in Cebu, Liloan’s beach spots are not blessed with white sand shores. The coast that run along the national highway has a collection of dark-colored beach spots with great views of the sunrise. But Liloan has something to offer that is equally interesting on the coastal side along the Bagacay Point.
The Marina Sanctuary Bayview is a public campsite that lies along the southern coast of Liloan. The rugged shorelines are a mix of sand and mud dotted with mangrove covers. Its location, right at the mouth of the Mactan Channel, prides itself with a great relaxing view of the sea and the neighboring island of Mactan. You get to enjoy the views of passing ships and planes with Punta Engano in the background. It is a perfect laidback spot for an easy weekend escape in Liloan. Must-try: Masi Another quick snack that you can enjoy in Liloan is Masi. This glutinous rice balls is a treat with its fillings of chopped peanuts and muscovado. The balls are then boiled until it floats, indicating that it is already cooked.
Unlike the rosquillos, where it has a store where you can buy it, Masi is commonly sold by vendors in public areas. I chanced upon a vendor while exploring the poblacion and I quickly had to try it. These balls, about the size of a one-peso coin, became an easy favorite for me with its soft chewy texture that bursts into flavor in your mouth. A definite must-try snack when you find yourself in Liloan. POST TRAVEL NOTES Liloan is one of the three baking towns of Cebu. The humble beginnings of this town rooted on a side snack turned it into a destination with an iconic Cebu snack that everyone loves. But beyond its bite, we can always stitch up the colorful stories of Liloan that transcends centuries and has survived three foreign occupations. It just shows us that each town has a story that could fill your palate and your mind.  Go out, explore, and find your peace. We are hiking the mountains next. Every town has a story to tell and it comes in different sizes. Some may come in huge battle grounds while others come in smaller bite sizes. But it is not about the size but on how the community has grown from these shared tales. It is about how these stories bring to life the coming together of a community to become bigger and better in the years that come after. Ikaw, ano ang kwento ng lugar ninyo? Watch out for the release of my Liloan Stitch Youtube Travel Video soon. #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Getting there: There are daily flights to Mactan - Cebu International Airport from Manila and other provincial and international airports. You can take a bus from the airport to SM City Cebu where you can take an airconditioned PUV or bus (located at the North Terminal) to Liloan. You can ask the jeep or bus driver to drop you off at the Liloan Church. You can take a trike or habal-habal to tour around Liloan. For easier exploration, you can also contact my Cebu habal-habal guide, Mickey, at (0991) 2480431 and arrange for a tour of Liloan. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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