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Northern Samar is a treasure trove for adventure seekers. Rustic and rugged, this province gives a different vibe that gives you a travel experience. From the rocks from ages of Mapanas, I went on to explore the rocks and history of a town that also stood for ages. Tara’t alamin natin ang kwento sa minsang pagpalag ng munting bayan ng Palapag. Palapag is a laidback municipality that lies along the coast of the Pacific. It once served as the center of Ibabao, one of the three Spanish-period residences in Samar. Interestingly, this small town played a huge role in the galleon trade between the Philippines and Mexico. So, it didn’t come as a surprise to find footprints of its colorful past around town. Sleeping Lion Rock Formation Just like the town of Mapanas, the coast of Palapag is dotted with rock formations formed by the wind and waters of the Pacific. The Sleeping Lion is an attraction quietly tucked in one of its rustic coastline communities. It is an unassuming destination. There are no directional signages that we had to rely on google map and asking locals where we can find it. We started the search for this “sleeping” giant at a beach cove behind the community’s cemetery. The towering rock formations that bordered the cove was picturesque that it reminded me of the movie location of “The Beach”. We walked north of the cove, scrambling over rocks, under the heat of the late afternoon sun. I was already here and I did not want to miss out on this spot. After 15 minutes of walking through a beaten trail, we came into another white sand cove and there it was. The rock formation molded by nature to look like a lion in slumber, with its head nestled on its front limbs. The indentations on the rock surface creates the image of its eyes and mouth while the vegetation create the visuals of it mane and fur. It really looked like a massive lion sleeping along the coastal waters of Mapanas. Pangpang Falls This attraction is an interesting stop along the national highway - Pangpang Falls. Tucked along the mountains of Palapag, the water cascades along the rock wall that faces the Pacific. This water then flows downstream towards the sea. The view of Pangpang Falls was amazing with its cascade and the forest covers surrounding it. Taking in the view of Pangpang Falls did not require any hike but I guess you can also head on towards its base if you want to get a closer view. You might need a local guide though to do this. It was just amazing that you get to enjoy this rustic view along the roadside. I could imagine how grand the cascade would look during the rainy season. Rakit Dakit Rock Formation A gated cove was our access point to the Rakit Dakit Rock Formations. The beach cove offers a panoramic view of a white sand coastline of Palapag with a huge rock formation on one side. There were a few locals exploring the rocky coast when we arrived. The huge rock formation towers over the cove like it was guarding it from the waves of the Pacific. The gray rock crevices and the green foliage stand out from the blue waters and skies. The view is dramatic as you catch the waters of the Pacific crashing on its base. At first glance, the rock may look to be the prime attraction but there’s more to this landscape. Getting closer to the rock formation, a different kind of coast will capture your attention. The view of the smooth rock floor shoreline is simply captivating. Smoothened by the ocean waters of the Pacific for hundreds of years, it was like stepping into a different world. The smooth stone coast, the view huge rock formations, and the sound of waves crashing and rolling along its coast completes the experience. Galleon Port Unknown to many, the town of Palapag was a crucial point in the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade. This small port on the outskirts of the town was the last stop of galleons for supplies before their transPacific voyage to Acapulco. It also serves as a stop of ships coming from Mexico before proceeding to Cavite City for repairs. The town’s strategic position made it the gateway of the world to the Philippines during the period. Business slowed down in the area when the galleon trade halted in 1815. The port remains operational to this day but caters to locals traveling within the area. It continues to connect the islands and coast in Northern Samar with its public transport. It also serves as a fish port for local fishermen. Lumang Simbahan ng Palapag The Spanish-period influence in Palapag is also evident in the town center. Standing adjacent to the new church are the ruins of the Old Palapag Church. It was established in 1605 and the stone church was completed in 1663. The church was shaped similar to a crucifix and was made from coral stones. It also served as a fortress against Moro pirate attacks. You could see how massive the stone church was from the foundations that still remain standing until today. The moss and plant-covers on the walls are testament on the structure’s age. I wonder why the locals decided to build a new church. A small grotto also stands in one of the corners of the stone church. The church was replaced by a new structure in 1970. Its role in Philippine history was recognized with the installation of two NHI markers - one for the church and the other honoring the role of Father Alcina in the Catholic faith community in Palapag. A white cross was also planted in front of the church to commemorate the 400 years of Christianity in Samar. Palapag Town Plaza and Sumuroy Monument At the heart of Palapag is the sprawling open park of Palapag Town Plaza. The plaza is complete with manicured lawns and a covered basketball court that also serves as the civic activity center of the town. The town plaza is a favorite afternoon spot of locals to chill out. At one corner of the park is the Sumuroy Monument. The monument honors the local hero of Palapag, Agustin Sumuroy, who led a protest in 1649-1650 against the Spaniards for abuses and forced labor of residents. This protest spread through Albay, Sorsogon, Cebu, Masbate, Bohol, Iligan, and Zamboanga. This revolt is recognized as the first widespread revolution of Filipinos against the Spaniards. POST TRAVEL NOTES Palapag is another unassuming destination in Northern Samar. Behind its lowkey vibe is a story of bravery that, more often than not, will surprise you. It was interesting to find out how this little carved its story in world and local history. Nasa sa lupa ng Palapag ay may pumalag na mga Pilipino laban sa mga Kastila. Small Philippine towns indeed carry big stories. Exploring the Philippines helps you uncover these stories which reconnects you to our history and culture. I just hope that Filipinos can put more value in understanding our past so we can move forward from the learnings. Check out my Mapanas and Palapag adventures on my Youtube Travel Channel: #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas
Getting there: Philippine Airlines flies to Catarman on specific days of the week from Manila and Cebu. You can take a trike from the airport to Colorhub Paint Supply along Bonifacio Street. The van terminal for Palapag and Mapanas is just across this hardware. Trips to Palapag and Mapanas from Catarman are usually in the morning while van trips from Palapag to Catarman are only until 1pm. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
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Marc del Rosario
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October 2026
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