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This district in the City of Iloilo is a charmer. Its old Spanish town vibe and flavorful pork broth has placed it in the tourism map of this city and the country. Its Spanish-period plaza is always on the itinerary of guests visiting. But a closer exploration into its nooks and crannies would show you that its stories transcend through different periods of Philippine history, and that, there’s more to the prayers and broth of Iloilo’s district of Molo.  Revisiting the old town charm of the District of Molo in Iloilo. Originally referred to as the Parian district of Iloilo, Molo used to be a separate town of the province until it was absorbed as a district of the city in 1937. It used to be a settlement of Chinese traders who provided trade services to the Spaniards and Mexicans residing in the adjacent town, and now district, of Arevalo. It flourished, not only in wealth, but also on intellectual prominence during the 1800s hence the monicker of being the “Athens of the Philippines”. At present, the district’s Spanish-period plaza continues to be one of the prominent tourism icons in the city. Molo Church At the heart of the district’s tourism and pilgrimage map is the Spanish-period Santa Ana Parish Church, more popularly known as Molo Church. Completed in 1888, the church features a Neo-Gothic architectural style. Its two bell towers, with its spires and pointed arches, stands dominantly along the skyline of the district. Its age-old beauty is hard to miss since the church is a central part of Molo.  At the heart of the district is the feminist church - Santa Ana Parish Church. The Molo Church stands differently because of the 16 female saints that line the pillars of its nave. Dedicated to Molo’s Patron Saint, Santa Ana, her image is the centerpiece of its beautiful Neo-Gothic retablo. It is referred to as a feminist church because of this feature. The church was also popular before for its beautiful Biblical paintings that Dr. Jose Rizal, our National Hero, made a quick visit to Molo Church just to admire these art pieces. However, these artworks can no longer be seen in the church.
Molo Church became a refuge of Filipinos during World War 2. We can say that the church is a mute witness to the colorful history of this city. The National Historical Institute declared it as a national landmark in 1992. Molo Church is also the only Gothic church outside of Metro Manila. Convento de Molo The Convento de Molo is another heritage structure that sits adjacent to the church. Contrary to the usual assumption, the house is older than the church and was not built as a convent. The structure , built in the bahay-na-bato architecture, was originally the house of Pablo Araneta Y Soriano, a nationalist and revolutionary hero. He was one of the Ilonggo elites who formed the Comite Conspirador who mobilized revolutionaries against the Spanish forces. This would explain why the house bears the NHI Marker honoring Pablo Araneta.  The Convento de Molo was originally the home of local hero, Pablo Araneta. From the headquarters of the revolutionary forces, the house was later converted to the Convento de Molo. The convent would house the administrative office of the Molo Church. The structure was restored to its former glory and is one of the prominent structures at the district plaza of Molo. It sits right along the highway and could easily catch your attention for its architecture as it stands different from the ancestral houses in the area. It is void of the usual grand architecture of the houses that is common in the Iloilo. Molo Plaza Similar to most Spanish-period towns in the region, the Molo Plaza is a large open park at the heart of the district of Molo. The design is Greek inspired, immortailizing Molo’s monicker as the “Athens of the Philippines”. The most iconic feature of the plaza is its sculpture rendition of the life-size images of the Greek goddesses Aphrodite, Athena, Artemis, Demeter, Hera, and Hestia. These images complement the female saints of Molo Church. These Greek Goddesses and the Molo Church are the iconic images of Molo’s tourism.
The park also features a sculpture rendition of Maria Clara, opposite the images of the godesses. Interestingly, a sculpture of Pura Kalaw was also installed to honor the first Filipina Title Holder of the “Queen of the Orient”. The park comes alive in the early mornings and late afternoons where locals enjoy the cool afternoons of the park. You get to see locals sell their home-made delicacies or you can challenge locals for a game of chess while enjoying the cool breeze of the Molo Plaza. Late afternoons are the best time to capture great pictures of the Molo Church and Plaza with the sunset colors giving extra drama to the old charm beauty of the church and the plaza. Molo Mansion The Yusay-Consing Ancestral House, more popularly known as Molo Mansion, is probably the most popular and most photographed mansion in the province. The house was completed in 1926 and featured a Neoclassical-art deco architecture. It was originally called the Lacson-Yusay Ancestral House after the original owners of the house - the couple Dona Petra Lacson and Estanislao Yulo Yusay. The two-story house exuded an air of grand elegance with its intricate exterior design, complete with a fountain along its driveway. Its azotea or balcony offers an amazing view of the Molo Church.  The Molo Mansion is the most popular ancestral homes in the District of Molo. The house was later on inherited by the daughter, Rosario Yusay, and her husband Timoteo Consing, Sr. It was renamed to the Yusay-Consing Ancestral House. The house was later sold to the SM Group in 2014 which prompted fears and reactions that it might be demolished. The Molo Mansion is an example of adaptive reuse where the original structure was kept in its stately form. The mansion now houses a souvenir shop and a part of its courtyard was converted into a cafe area for guests and visitors. Rosendo Mejica Historical Landmark and Museum Hidden along the busy streets of Molo is a modest home where an influential Ilonggo was born - Rosendo Mejica. He was the first certified public accountant from the province, established the first public school building in Iloilo, and founded the longest-running Hiligaynon newspaper, Makinaugalingon. He has devoted 30 years of his life in public service that paved the way to the construction of the Molo Boulevard and the Old City Hall. His contributions has been recognized by the National Historical Institute with a marker installed in his birthplace. The modest two-story house sits along Locsin Street. The house is well-kept and his legacy lives on with a museum that was dedicated to him. Unfortunately, I was not able to check out the museum at the time of my visit. Although the house seemed well-kept, I think that it needs to be given extra attention for its cultural and historical value. It was good that I was able to research on it and that pushed me to check it out. New Carpenter’s Bridge New Carpenter’s Bridge is one of the 7 bridges under the tourism program of Iloilo’s 7 Bridges of Blessing. The bridge was named after the first civilian governor of the Moro Province, Frank Watson Carpenter. He was responsible for the implementation of the budget system in the 1907 insular government.  The Carpenter's Bridge is a crucial link between the Districts of Molo and Mandurriao. The bridge is referred to as the Bridge of Love. It is a 114.80-meter bridge spanning the Iloilo River and connects the districts of Molo and Mandurriao. It is also part of the beautiful Iloilo Esplanade that runs along the length of the Iloilo River. Molo Cemetery My biggest find when I explored Molo was the Molo Cemetery. It was one of the few cemeteries that is art-deco themed. It captured my attention after seeing their collection of massive art-deco mausoleums when I was heading back to my hotel. So I returned the next day to explore this unique cemetery.
The entrance of the cemetery stands unique with its Egyptian-styled portal. It is believed that the style is the only one in the country. At the end of its walkway is an art-deco simborio with a massive tower entrance. The solid structure bears the word “Memoriam”. The cemetery has a wide collection of art-deco mausoleums that add character to the cemetery. The Molo Cemetery was a good find for someone like me who finds dark tourism interesting. Snack Find: Molo Soup Molo Soup is a pork-based soup that is simple and savory. Its history can be traced from the early Chinese residents of Molo, which was then called Parian. Ground pork is wrapped in molo wrappers and boiled in a water with sautéed garlic and topped with green onions. The soup is rich and savory.  Ending a day of exploring with a hot bowl of Molo Soup. One of the best places to enjoy this soup is at the Panaderia de Molo. The “panaderia” is easy to find since it is situated along the main highway of Molo. The bakery also has baked goodies that go well with this popular soup. Sipping the broth that originated in Molo is a great way to end a day of exploring this homey town. POST TRAVEL NOTES A closer look at Molo has given me a different appreciation of this district in Iloilo City. Don’t get me wrong, the Molo Plaza Complex continues to amaze me. Only this time, I got to see beyond the faith and soup of Molo. Exploring its streets was like walking into the different decades of Molo, from its Spanish influences to the present. The town was like a time-capsule of sorts that give you a glimpse of its glorious past.  Get ready to explore another off beat town in Cebu. Where are we heading next? Often times, we get immersed with the usual popular spots when we visit places. But a little effort to take a few more steps or to be a bit more curious could yield to new experiences and information that’s been there all along. It is just that we have been too occupied with what we are used to that we don’t notice the rest. Just stay curious when you travel and be surprised. Check out my Molo and Jaro Travel Video on my Youtube Travel Channel:
Getting there: There are regular flights to Iloilo from major hubs in the country and in some select international stations. From the airport, you can take a van to SM City Iloilo. You can then take the airconditioned mini-buses with the Molo or Muhon sign. Ask the conductor/driver to drop you off at the Molo Plaza. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and “dry during my travels. Get 5% off on your Hull & Stern dry bag purchase on the Hull & Stern website when you use the code - marc7del.
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In the midst of the buzz of the metro, an old district of Manila keeps a steady hold on the city. The mere mention of its name often invokes fear. I have long planned out exploring the place but I always found a reason not to because of its notorious image. A new travel project centered on Andres Bonifacio has pushed me to explore the birthplace of a certified Batang Tondo.  Exploring the birthplace of Andres Bonifacio. It is interesting to note that Tondo once existed as a huge kingdom. It was a territory mentioned in the Laguna Copperplate Inscription, the earliest legal document in the country. Its territory once covered the areas of Pampanga, Bulacan, and Rizal. Beyond the breadth of its old territory, Tondo played a pivotal role in Philippine history. We could say that history is tucked along the streets of the district. Andres Bonifacio Birthplace Monument* Standing along the busy streets of Divisoria, the monument of Andres Bonifacio towers along Recto Avenue. The statue, crouched with a pen and paper on his hands, honors the Tondo-born hero for his role in the Philippine Revolution. Andres was born in Tondo on November 30, 1883 and spent a large part of his youth in the district. Despite experiencing the hardship of life, Andres was a self-educated person who loved reading and theater. He went on to establish the Kataastaasan, Kagalanggalangan Katipunan ng mga Anak ng Bayan, the organization that was pivotal in the Philippine Revolution.  The monument that puts puts significance to the birthplace of Andres Bonifacio. The statue of Andres Bonifacio is full of symbolism. The pen and paper was in reference to him signing his Katipunan oath with his blood. The flag raised behind him is the symbolism for the Katipunan, an organization that he founded that sought freedom against Spanish Rule. The bolo was in reference to his activism and fight for freedom. He was a hero that came from the masses and, even to this day, he is often referred to as the “Father of the Philippine Revolution”. Tutuban Train Station/Tutuban Center Mall Just behind the Andres Bonifacio Monument is the Tutuban Train Station. This imposing structure was the once the center of transportation in Manila. It was part of the Manila-Dagupan Line of the Manila Railway Company, a train line that connected Manila to the Pangasinan. The train line was 195 kilometers long. The Tutuban Train Station served as the main transit hub of commuters.  The Old Tutuban Train Station stands adjacent to the Andres Bonifacio Monument. The main station was converted into a mall in 1994 - the Tutuban Center Mall. This paved the way for commerce and public interest in the area to gain traction. You still get to see the iron-work pillars of the old railway station inside the mall. With the development of the North-South Commuter Railway, this area will once again become a transit point for commuters and travelers. It will be a vital connection between the north and the south of Luzon.  An old train on display at the PNR Tutuban Station. The Tutuban Train Station/Tutuban Center Mall becomes more vibrant during the Christmas season when bazaars open around the area. The commerce around the former train station proves that Tondo remains to be a focal area for commerce in Metro Manila. We cannot disregard that, despite the existence of larger airconditioned malls in the metro, there is a district that continues to be at the center in commerce and transportation. Katipunan Foundation Site* Further down Recto Avenue, a small monument sits silently behind the usual chatter of business in Tondo. The site, marked by a tableau of empowered Filipinos and a national historical marker, is the site where the Kataastaasan, Kagalanggalangan Katipunan ng mga Anak ng Bayan was established by Andres Bonifacio. The organization was pivotal during the Philippine Revolution in 1898. The organization was formed in 1892 by nationalists Deodato Arellano, Teodoro Plata, Valentin Diaz, Ladislao Diwa, Jose Dizon, and Andres Bonifacio.  The KKK Memorial stands quietly in the middle of the busy street of Recto. The Katipunan was a secret organization whose main objective was to seek freedom for Filipinos from the hands of the Spanish governance through an armed revolution. Its discovery in August 1896 hastened the Philippine Revolution. It led to the “Cry of Pugad Lawin” where Katipuneros tore their cedulas to show their resistance against Spanish rule. This movement led to a full blown revolution in 1898. Plaza Liga Filipina* Tucked along one of the corners of the busy market street of Ilaya is a silent witness to the early stages of the aim for Philippine Independence. The Plaza La Liga is a small plaza where the house of Doroteo Ongjungco once stood. It was on this site where Dr. Jose Rizal founded the La Liga Filipina together with Apolinario Mabini, Ambrosio Rianzanes Bautista, and Andres Bonifacio. The organization was directed towards nationhood and how Filipinos can become better citizens. Unfortunately three days after its founding, Dr. Jose Rizal was arrested and exiled in Dapitan.  On this site, the La Liga Filipina was founded by Dr. Jose Rizal upon his return to the Philippines. A monument with a bust of Dr. Jose Rizal stand at the center of the plaza. A bronze plate bears the narrative behind the founding of the La Liga Filipina. The backdrop of the plaza outlines the “Ang Pitong Asal” - the mandate of the members of the organization. A National Historical Institute Marker was also installed in the area as recognition of the site’s historical value. It is interesting that, in the midst of the market buzz and kids laughter while playing in the plaza, the independence that we enjoy today started here. Minor Basilica and Archdiocesan Shrine Parish of Sto. Nino de Tondo* At the center of Tondo is the Minor Basilica and Archdiocesan of Santo Nino de Tondo, or more commonly referred to as Tondo Church. The church is home to the second oldest Santo Nino image in the country. Just like Cebu, the streets burst in lively celebration every 3rd Sunday of January in honor of the Santo Nino, albeit in a different fashion. Andres Bonifacio was baptized at the church on December 2, 1863.  The Tondo Church stand as the center of the Catholic faith in Tondo. The Tondo Church was one of the first churches established in Luzon by the Spaniards. Consecrated in 1572, the stone church was completed in 1695. Its neoclassical architectural style, with its imposing church belfries stand out of the Tondo landscape. The facade is simple with two niches bearing the images of the Risen Christ and the Virgin Mary.
The interior of the church is grand with its painted ceilings and pillars. The altar catches your attention with its intricate paintings and carvings. At the center of its interior is the ivory image of the Santo Nino de Tondo that came from Acapulco, Mexico. The Tondo Church was raised as a Basilica Minore in November 2025 by Pope Leo XIV. Plaza Hernandez The Plaza Hernandez is a public space right in front of the Tondo Church. Originally called Plaza Leon, it was renamed to Plaza Hernandez in 1970 in honor of Tondo’s literary genius, Ka Amado Hernandez. Ka Amado was known as a writer and labor leader and he was imprisoned for his alleged association with the communist movement. It was during his imprisonment that he wrote some of his notable works like “Isang Dipang Langit” and “Bayang Malaya”. He was later released and acquitted of the allegations.  Plaza Hernandez is an open-space plaza that honors Amado Hernandez, a Tondo-born literary artist. The Plaza Hernandez has a facade that bears a sculpture of Ka Amado and his “Panata sa Kalayaan”. His words “Kitlin man ang buhay ko’t biyakin ang bungo. Sa bungo ko’y nakalimbag pa rin sa sariwang dugo. Pilipino akong sa pambubusabos ay hindi susuko.” seems to resonate until today. A historical marker was also installed honoring the literary artist for his literary works. Amado Hernandez remains an honored “batang Tondo” to this day. Plaza Morga / Macario Sakay Monument Surrounded by bamboo greens, Plaza Morga is an open-space park that offers a nature refuge at the heart of Tondo. The park gave me a cool break from the humid heat of downtown Manila. The park was named in honor of Antonio de Morga, a Spanish lawyer who once served as a Deputy Governor General of the country. Interestingly, the park does not have any bust or monument that honors him.  Plaza Morga is a pocket of green space in the district of Tondo. But at the center of this small park stands a monument that honors Macario Sakay. Macario Sakay is a Philippine Revolutionary General who was born in Tondo. He sought independence from both the Spanish and American rule. He declared the Tagalog Republic where he was President after the capture of General Emilio Aguinaldo. He was later captured and executed by hanging in 1907 after his deceitful capture by the American forces. Plaza Moriones At the heart of Tondo’s activity is a linear park that runs along Moriones Street. The Plaza Moriones is a mute witness to the political activity in Tondo. From uprisings against Spanish forces to establishment of working-class movements, the plaza has seen part of Philippine history unfold. The calm and refreshing surroundings of the park under the afternoon sun was a complete contrast to the fury of Filipinos that made its mark on this site.  The Plaza Moriones is a linear park along Moriones Street.
This green oasis in Tondo was named after Governor Domingo Moriones who was the person responsible for the construction of the sewerage system in Manila. A historical marker was installed at one end of the park to honor the valiant Muslim locals from Hagonoy at Macabebe to ward off the Spanish of Legaspi in 1571. This was known as the Battle of Bangkusay. On the other end of Plaza Moriones is a monument and a historical marker that honors Honorio Lopez - a revolutionary who fought during the Philippine Revolution and the Philippine-American War. Plaza Moriones played a significant role in Philippine history. The well-kept tree-lined park offers a quiet sanctuary to local residents. In the same way, it has also been a sanctuary of freedom for Filipinos as it remains to be one of the five freedom parks of Manila. Plaza Moriones remains to be the true heart of Tondo. Snack Break: Liberty Food Mart and Kapihan ni Kabisi Exploring Tondo will not be complete if you don’t swing by the Liberty Food Mart for a quick snack break. Established in 1923, the bakery/cafe is a staple in the Tondo food scene. What started out as a bakery selling pan de sal, it has now grown to offer different bread products and a cafe alongside the bakery. Interestingly, it remained in the same location since it opened.  A quick snack stop at Liberty Food Mart completed my Tondo adventure. The Kapihan ni Kabisi is a small cafe that offers bread, rice meals, and drinks for those who wish to dine in. “Kabisi” is in reference to Ah Nam, an immigrant from China, who acquired the bakery in 1954. He was often referred to as “kabisi” or store owner by the locals. From baking breads to serving meals, we can say that Liberty Food Mart is part of the history and heritage of Tondo. POST TRAVEL NOTES What started out with hesitation and fear turned out to be an interesting exploration of a district that is significant to Philippine history. True to the perception of being a place of the masses, history has shown that Tondo has always been rooted to the common Filipino even until to this day. I must admit that I have only seen the history of the district and there is so much more to see. One lesson that Tondo will always echo in me is that the first step to doing something is to first face the fear. You will be surprised at what you can discover after that obstacle.  We are going off the grid in Cebu soon. Tondo is my first stop in a new travel series that I am starting this 2026 - retracing the steps of Gat Andres Bonifacio. Inspired by last year’s teambuilding venue in Indang, I wanted to understand Andres Bonifacio more while exploring the places that the hero visited during his fight for Philippine Independence. The goal is not only to highlight the beauty of the place but to also understand Andres Bonifacio’s story. *Indicates that Andres Bonifacio set foot on the site. Check out my Tondo travel video on my Youtube Travel Channel: Getting there: The district of Tondo is in downtown Manila. The closest train stations are Recto Station (LRT 2) and Doroteo Jose (LRT 1). From Recto Station, you can take a jeep with the Divisoria sign and asked to be dropped off at Tutuban Center Mall. If you are coming from Doroteo Jose, you can a trike to Tutuban Center Mall. You can use Google Maps to navigate to these spots by foot.
Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and “dry during my travels. Get 5% off on your Hull & Stern dry bag purchase on the Hull & Stern website when you use the code - marc7del.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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