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The distance and the challenge of public transport make this landlocked province a gem to discover. For the few who have explored the province, they have always come back speaking of its enchanting beauty. I am now of these few. With Baguio-based travel organizer - Napapagna Outdoors, I traveled more than 9 hours to experience how Luna rises from the horizon.  Locking in on my 70th PH province in Luna. Photo by Napapagna. Originally called Macatel, the town of Luna is located on the northern side of the province of Apayao, along the boundary of neighboring province of Cagayan. It was renamed to its present name Luna by the Ilocano explorer and the town’s founding father, Antonino Barroga. It serves as a de facto capital of the Apayao where its provincial capitol and other government agencies are located. But beyond being a provincial government center, the rise of Luna is rooted on its enchanting natural attractions that has trickled on to social media feeds. Its enchanting beauty has caught the interest of many tourist, both local and international. Dupag Rock Formation Located in Marag Valley, the Dupag Rock Formation once served as a fortress by the NPA and, later on, by military forces in the 1980s. Its geographical formation of clustered jagged limestone rock boulders, rising to about 7 to 8 feet, make it a perfect hideout. The rock complex has become an attraction because of its overlooking views at its highest point and its dramatic rock surface when viewed from atop.  An early morning bloom atop the Dupag Rock Formation. We found ourselves in the middle of the vast Marag Valley, the jump-off point to the formations. From where we were standing, I couldn’t see the formation except for a forest cover from a distance. That was where we were headed to. It took us around 20 minutes hike, through the fields and across a river, to get to the base of Dupag. It is highly recommended that you explore the formations early morning because the place offers very little cover from the sun and the rocks can get pretty heated up by the sun.
You are given two options at the base of the Dupag Rock Formation - easy trail or hard trail. Both trails will end at the Father Rock - the highest point of the limestone formation. Being adventurous guy that I am, I chose to take the hard trail. The easy trail gets you to the top via the crevices in between rocks. The hard trail started off with me climbing atop the formations through a steep crevice with the help of ropes. Upon reaching the top, I had to clamber over the sharp tips of the limestone rocks. You need to take extra caution because the rock sides can also be slippery and steep.  Father Rock gives you a panoramic view of Marag Valley. Upon reaching the Father Rock, I was treated with an amazing view of the plains below. I was not surprised that it was once a hideout since it offers a strategic and panoramic view of its surrounding areas. A view from above the rocks is dramatic. It looked like I was sitting on a a petal of a huge flower-shaped rock with greens around it. All my huffings ang puffings were rewarded with a great view and perfect IG-worthy shots. Manacota Cave and Underground River Initially I thought that our lunch picnic by the river/dike was just our coordinator’s way of making us enjoy the rustic vibe of Apayao. Little did I know, we were already at the jump-off point of another Luna attraction. So after a filling lunch, we hiked down the river trail to the underground river. Get ready because the 40-minute hike will have you walking under the sun with a couple of river crossing.  Getting ready to get wet at Manacota Underground River. Photo by Napapagna. As we got into a clearing by the entrance of a cave, we were greeted by the emerald green color of the water and the sign “I love Manacota Underground River”. The calm waters were calm and inviting. We were lucky that we were the only visitors for that day and we had the whole place for ourselves. So that dis not stop us from taking a quick dip in its cold waters.
We boarded wooden boats and our guides paddled us towards the Manacota Cave and Underground River. The cave is considered to having a “high quality ecosystem”. In pitch dark, our guides flashed their lights to showcase stalactites and stalagmites formations. The river runs through the cave and the deepest part of the river is at 12 meters. It is a through and through cave where there are two cave openings. We docked on the other opening of the cave where you could experience the rush of spring water flowing into the cave. An opening at the top of cave lets light stream in giving this part of the cave a more dramatic vibe.
We ventured further up the headwaters of the river. The gorge had steep rock-walls on the sides. Large rock formations gave the gorge that rugged vibe. We had to wade through rushing river waters to get to its headwaters. Large boulders were stacked atop each other at the end. This was a spot where one could cliff jump from the boulders before you let the rushing waters carry you back to the shallower parts of the river. Or you can also choose to find your own spot by the riverbanks and get soothed by the calming sounds of waters rushing down. Whatever you choose, you would get to enjoy nature at its finest. Apayao Ecotourism and Sports Complex The four-hectare complex fuses the rustic natural beauty of Apayao with modern sports facilities. It is complete with Olympic-size pools, a track oval, and a club house that overlooks the sports facilities. It also has a hiking trail in the area where you can enjoy a quick commune with nature. The facility served as host of the region-wide athletic meet in 2024.  The sign that captured how we felt when we visited the sports complex. The complex was a perfect spot to slow us down after a full day of adventure. It offered a tranquil vibe as we explored the area. Of course, we did not miss out having our pictures taken with the “I ❤️ Apayao” sign. The souvenir shop though was close on the day that visited and we missed out on that. The complex also has accommodation facilities for those who want to spend the night here. I hope that the facility would be maintained to provide world-class sport facilities for Apayao and its neighboring provinces. Apayao Provincial Capitol Luna now serves as the de-facto capital of the province of Apayao. It for this reason that a new government center that was built at the heart of Luna. The provincial capitol serves as the center of governance in Apayao providing basic services to the people of Apayao.  Luna is now home to the new government center of the province. Situated atop a hill, the Apayao Provincial Capitol is the government complex of the province. This is where most of the offices of national agencies are located. The main building is situated along one side of the hill. A staircase leads down to a fountain with a base in a shape of a star. Each spike represents the 7 municipalities of the province. Interestingly, I find the design of the complex different because of its layout. Unlike other capitol complexes that I have seen, it lacks that wow factor as its Capitol Building faces an unappealing view of its forested/farm area. Lussok Cave and Underground River Lussok Cave is the most popular natural attraction in the province of Apayao. It did not come as a surprise that it is the most developed attraction with trails and picnic spots in the area. The cave once served as a refuge by the Japanese soldiers and native insurgents before social media propelled its beauty to local travelers. In fact, the holes on its ceilings were caused by war bombings. Its name was derived from the local word “lussok” which means sunlight seeping through the holes of the cave ceilings.  Lussok Cave and Underground River is the prime tourist destination of Luna. Photo by Napapagna. The Lussok Cave experience begins aboard a wooden canoe where your guide and boatman paddles you through the steep gorge leading to the mouth of the cave. We were treated with a relaxing view of the thick foliage that cover the gorge. Unfortunately, it rained the night before so the waters were not in its enchanting azure color. Still, the calm and serene vibe as we approached the cave opening kept all of us in awe.
The guides explained to us that the cave is home to many living stalactite and stalagmite formations. As we were covered in pitch darkness, the guides showed us some of the amazing rock formations from images of the VIrgin Mary to images of jellyfish to stalactites shaped like a female genitalia, the rock formations will keep you amazed as you chuckle at the jokes shared by the guide. You will also find that the deep inside the cave is the home of a colony of bats.
Lussok Cave is a cave with a single opening so the boats had to maneuver at the large chamber found at the end of the cave. From here, we headed back to the cave’s opening. This is where you get a clearer view of the cave’s openings along its ceilings. These openings were a result of the bombings during the war. You will also be amazed with the view of the cave opening from the inside of the cave. It was an amazing sight to see. Our guide docked near the cave entrance where he lined us up for that famous Lussok Cave shot. This camera angle shot made Lussok Cave a popular destination in Apayao.  Getting ready to hike back from the cave. Photo by Napapagna. From the cave opening, there are two ways to head back to the receiving area. You can choose to take the bangka back to the docking station or you can choose to take a short hike on its gorge. A trail was established that snakes up to the green covers of its gorge. A hanging bridge connects the gorge to the other side and it also has a great view of Lussok Cave. The 10-minute hike through its forest covers will give you a relaxing walk with nature back to the park’s reception area. POST TRAVEL NOTES There is no doubt that the rustic beauty of Luna will continue to rise in popularity especially that only a few tread the roads to Apayao. Distance and transportation within Luna proves to be the biggest challenge in exploring its beauty. This is the gap that local travel organizers, like Napapagna Outdoors, come in to fill in that gap. They provide opportunities for travelers to explore these destinations hassle-free while providing earning opportunities for their local contacts. This is a great win-win arrangement for tourists, locals, and the organizer.  Get ready to explore and commune with nature in Cebu. Having traveled around the Philippines, I am quick to admit that there are destinations where the main challenge is exploring it DIY. I have shared in the past that there are destinations where having an organizer makes it more convenient and more economical. This also gives you the opportunity to making new friends and to make the adventure a shared experience thus making it more memorable… yung tipong babalikan! Watch out for the release of my Luna, Apayao adventure on my Youtube Travel Channel soon. #MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Getting there: My Luna, Apayao adventure was organized by Baguio-based FB travel organizer, Napapagna Outdoors. Kuya Eldridge provides a hassle-free and fun adventure from start to finish. You can check out their travel schedules on their FB page - Napapagna Outdoors. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
1 Comment
What an incredible milestone your 70th province in the Philippines! 🎉 This travel story beautifully captures how places like Luna in Apayao remain hidden gems waiting to be explored. I really enjoyed how you described the journey through Dupag Rock Formation, Manacota Underground River, and Lussok Cave it makes readers feel the adventure, from the challenging climbs to the peaceful boat rides inside the caves. The panoramic views from Father Rock and the emerald waters of the underground rivers sound absolutely breathtaking. Leave a Reply. |
Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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