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The town is unassuming and calming as I set my foot on its grounds. For most of us Filipinos, we know this place associated with the famous phrase “I shall return.” BUT this town takes a step forward beyond its place in history. It is a town that speaks of faith and resilience from its tough and painful past. I guess that is why it is a striking Palo for me.  The story of Palo in Leyte is a story of rising up even after getting a hit. Often living under the shadows of its neighboring city, the town of Palo in Leyte is forever etched in the history of the Philippines and the world. It is along the shores of this town that General McArthur fulfilled his promise of “I shall return.” when World War 2 broke out. From this symbolic return, the town has evolved into a thriving political and religious center in the province of Leyte being home to a new provincial capital and the Archdiocese of Palo. What does this sleepy town have to offer? MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park At the heart of Palo’s tourism is the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park. This seaside park is the site where the historical promise of the esteemed general to the Filipinos was fulfilled in October 20, 1944. The monument is the centerpiece of the sprawling complex where a couple of governments are also located. The complex is also home to a number of memorials like the Boy Scout of the Philippines Monument at the center of the complex.  Palo got rooted in history when General MacArthur's fulfilled his promise. The park was declared a National Historical Landmark in 2004. The main monument depicts bronze statues of General MacArthur, President Sergio Osmena, and their entourage wading through water as depicted from a picture captured by Gaetano Faillace. The NHI Historical Marker was installed in front of the shallow pool. A bronze cast of his footprints is on display just right across the seven-men monument. A mural depicting World War 2 scenes was installed at the backend of the pool to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of the Leyte Landings.
The park also features other smaller monuments honoring the heroes of World War 2. There is a small theater on one end of the park and adjacent to it are the barges that carried liberation forces that landed along the shores of Palo. A Visitor Center stands right across the park where guests can have a full view of the park from its balcony. The back part of the park is connected to a baywalk that offers a panoramic view of San Pablo Bay and Samar Island. On a good day, you can do planespotting as these planes make their final approach to Tacloban Airport. Red Beach and Leyte Lighthouse Red Beach is the stretch of black sand coastline behind the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park. It is along these coastlines where the liberation of the Philippines from the hands of the Japanese started during the end of World War 2. The beach is not exactly red. In fact, the sand is grayish black. Some narratives claim that “RED” was the code that the Americans used in reference to this coast along Palo. Eventually, the name was later adopted by locals.
The MacArthur Landing Walkway now runs along part of the Red Beach. You will also find a string restaurants and a resort along the baywalk. A public beach is located at the far end of the walkway where you can rent a small hut is you intend to stay longer to enjoy the beach. You can also see from this area the Leyte Lighthouse at a distance. I am not sure though if you could walk to check out the lighthouse from Red Beach. The beach spot and the baywalk is a favorite spot of locals to do their morning or afternoon jogs. Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lord’s Transfiguration (Palo Cathedral) Founded in 1596 by the Jesuits, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lord’s Transfiguration or Cathedral is an ecclesiastical province that leads a large part of Leyte. The church was built on the same year with the two towers being added in 1850. It was proclaimed as a cathedral in March 1938. It was later utilized as a medical facility during the liberation of the Philippines in 1944.  The Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lord's Transfiguration stands majestically at the heart of Palo. The church structure stands out at the heart of the town. A statue of the Risen Christ greets visitors at the entrance of the church compound. The two towers of the church structure dominate the skyline of the town like a guardian watching over its domain. Its simple facade glows in yellow with the image of the Risen Christ at the top of the structure.
The interior of the church is elegant with its stained-glass windows, its Stations of the Cross mounted on the side walls of the church, and the niche, featuring saints, mounted on the upper walls of its front walls. Its intricately designed retablo is the main feature of its interior. The three-level retablo also features saints with the Risen Christ taking the top niche of the retablo. The retablo glows in gold catching your attention as you enter the sanctuary. A Yolanda Memorial was also installed within the church compound. The memorial is one of the many in the province that honors the lives lost during the onslaught of one of the strongest typhoons to hit the country. It features a three-story “lighthouse” structure. Angels were installed on the plot, guarding the area. Tombstones of those who perished line the garden walls around the memorial. La Purisima Bridge / Bangon Bridge Located at the base of Guinhangdan Hill, the La Purisima Bridge, also known as Bangon Bridge, has its own play in the town’s history. The bridge spans across the Bangon River connecting the town center to the area of the town’s historical hill. It carries the value of being the first steel bridge in the area.  The La Purisima Bridge is said to be the first steel bridge in the area. There are efforts to breathe new life to the bridge. A riverwalk was being constructed along the river banks of Bangon to create an attraction/fitness area on this side of the town. The LGU once had a project where lovers could put the locks with their messages on the grid of the bridge but I did not find any at the time of my visit. Guinhangdan Hill Standing at 522 feet, the Guinhangdan Hill rises from the edge of Bangon River. Its strategic location made it a focal area of the encounter between the Liberation and Japanese forces when General MacArthur landed in Palo. The hill was referred to as Hill 522 and was a stronghold of the Japanese at that time.
Locals have shared that a wooden cross stood at the top of the hill during the Japanese occupation. It was later replaced by a concrete cross after the war and, later on, became a pilgrimage site. From a Japanese stronghold during the war, the hill has become a religious destination for the faithful, especially during the Holy Week. Pilgrims climb to the cross to light candles to show their gratitude and faith to the Almighty.  Enjoying the panoramic view at the top of Hill 522. There is a cemented trail leading to the top of the hill. There is a small chapel as you start the hike. There are rest stops along the way where you can enjoy the overlooking views of the surrounding areas. I initially thought that the hike was going to be easy but it was a bit of a challenge because of the steep ascent to the top. The cross stood majestically overlooking the flatlands around it. It offered a panoramic view of its surrounding areas. You get to enjoy the breeze and view as a reward after huffing and puffing along the trail of Guinhangdan Hill. POST TRAVEL NOTES The name of the town of Palo has two versions on how it was named as such. The first is its association with the “palo” - a defense weapon similar to a club and/or the hammer used by carpenters. Another version that is based off on a superstition where it is said that the area is visited by typhoons every eight days. A phenomenon that they often refer to as “walo-palo”. No matter where the town derived its name, this town really sledged out its history with General MacArthur’s triumphant return to the country and, more recently, being battered by Typhoon Yolanda. It is a town that faces its battles, falls on its knees, BUT graciously picks up the pieces to comeback stronger and better.  I long for the beach even when it rains. Every town has its own story to share. It takes one to have the courage to explore its nooks and crannies to uncover the stories beyond the usual. These stories make you understand how it molded the town, its people, and its beliefs. It makes you appreciate their present by learning their past. You uncover what lies beneath the beauty of the place and the smiles on the local’s faces. You don’t just visit. You understand. That is key in making every trip an exciting one. Check out my Palo, Leyte adventure on my Youtube Travel Channel or you may click on the link below.
#MahalinNatinAngPilipinas Getting there: There are direct flights to Tacloban City from major airports of the country. From the airport, there are public transports like jeepneys and trikes going to the city center where you can take another jeepney to the town of Palo. Tricycles are the way to go around in Palo. Shoutout to my travel buddies - HULL & STERN Dry Bags for keeping my stuff safe and dry during my travels and MAGWAI for their alternative and eco-friendly products for my local travels.
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Marc del Rosario
I believe in education, entrepreneurship, and caring for the environment. 
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